Can't seem to tweak cable adjustment properly
#1
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Can't seem to tweak cable adjustment properly
I replaced the shifter cables on my 9 speed Shimano DA.
I can't seem to get the proper cable tension for optimal shifting. When I loosen the cable a bit to keep the chain from jumping off the smallest cog to the next smallest cog, then the chain doesn't want to stay on the large cog but jump to the next smaller cog. A lot of skipping going on at the smallest and largest cogs.
I turned the barrel adjust in before I installed the cable for maximum adjustment allowance. Any advice appreciated.
I can't seem to get the proper cable tension for optimal shifting. When I loosen the cable a bit to keep the chain from jumping off the smallest cog to the next smallest cog, then the chain doesn't want to stay on the large cog but jump to the next smaller cog. A lot of skipping going on at the smallest and largest cogs.
I turned the barrel adjust in before I installed the cable for maximum adjustment allowance. Any advice appreciated.
#2
Did you replace the cable housing too? What kind of cable housing are you using? Spiral wound "brake cable" housing? Or, linear wire "incompressible" shifter cable housing? Good cable ferrules?
I assume you are using a 9s chain, right?
Oh, one other thought. Make sure the B-Screw on the derailleur is adjusted to get it as close to the sprockets as possible, without touching in any gear combination.
I assume you are using a 9s chain, right?
Oh, one other thought. Make sure the B-Screw on the derailleur is adjusted to get it as close to the sprockets as possible, without touching in any gear combination.
#3
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Did all work well before the cable swap out? If so then the new cable might be wrongly routed at the anchor bolt. If not then, as mentioned, casing friction can be at play. Also check the cassette lock ring tightness, then guide pulley condition, hanger alignment (of course I mention this over used suggestion).
I start by not using the shift lever but using an open length of cable to move the ders through their range, This also tend to seat the casing end caps onto the casing. After setting the limit screws and getting good shifting with pulling the cables I move onto the shift levers moving the ders. I teach this two step method as to separate the der function from the shifter/cable aspect. Andy.
I start by not using the shift lever but using an open length of cable to move the ders through their range, This also tend to seat the casing end caps onto the casing. After setting the limit screws and getting good shifting with pulling the cables I move onto the shift levers moving the ders. I teach this two step method as to separate the der function from the shifter/cable aspect. Andy.
#4
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Given that it's a new cable, I'd suspect there's friction somewhere in the cable route. Maybe a bad housing, too much housing, not enough housing, inapproriate housing (i.e. not compressionless), convoluted routing, etc.
#5
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If you have not changed the housing along with the cable I would recommend it. The inner wire wears a groove in the housing (part of the cause of cable "stretch") and a new wire may not move smoothly in the groove due to differing diameters or whatnot. Pay attention to the dress of the last housing run going into the RD; the housing should be the correct length to go relatively straight into the derailleur without being cocked or strained. This may not be the same length as the old housing :-)







