How to remove this crank?
#1
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How to remove this crank?
Hi, can anyone tell me how to remove this crank on my boardman mtb competition. I've removed the pedal but can't seem to pull the crank out. Hit it a few times with a mallet but doesn't give. Wondered if I need to remove the black ring with teeth with a special tool or something?
#2
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From: Bozeman
Bikes: 199? Landshark Roadshark, 198? Mondonico Diamond, 1987 Panasonic DX-5000, 1987 Bianchi Limited, Univega... Chrome..., 1989 Schwinn Woodlands, Motobecane USA Record, Raleigh Tokul 2
Just keep unscrewing the inner bolt (8mm? 6mm?) (lefty loosy) and the crank will come off.
Yes, it will get tight before it gets loose.
Yes, it will get tight before it gets loose.
#4
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From: Bozeman
Bikes: 199? Landshark Roadshark, 198? Mondonico Diamond, 1987 Panasonic DX-5000, 1987 Bianchi Limited, Univega... Chrome..., 1989 Schwinn Woodlands, Motobecane USA Record, Raleigh Tokul 2
Wait what? You're holding the crank in your hand. The crank is the thing the pedal attaches to. You have no need to remove what's left in the bottom of the crank. But if you want to, you need a pin spanner to remove the outer ring that's around the 8mm.
#7
rebmeM roineS

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From: Metro Indy, IN
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My experience with Truvativ Elita and FSA Gossamer external bearing cranks is that sometimes a whack with a mallet is required.
Maybe there is something different with SR Suntour???
Maybe there is something different with SR Suntour???
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#8
Once the crank has been removed from the spindle, you have to figure out how the other side works. You have already removed the non drive side crank arm. The drive side crank arm and chainrings are also attached to the spindle. You have not shown a picture of these parts so that anyone can see how they are attached
#9
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Yes, you need to hit it a little harder, the bb is shimano compatible.
#10
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From: San Diego, CA
It looks to me as though you have self-extracting cranks. All you need to do is keep unscrewing the bolt and it removes itself as long as you leave the dimpled silver aluminum piece in place which is what corrado33 was referring to as getting harder to turn at some point as you unscrewed the bolt. No need for any other tools.
#11
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Once the crank has been removed from the spindle, you have to figure out how the other side works. You have already removed the non drive side crank arm. The drive side crank arm and chainrings are also attached to the spindle. You have not shown a picture of these parts so that anyone can see how they are attached
#12
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From: Upstate NY
Bikes: Bianchi San Mateo and a few others
DON'T HIT THINGS WITH A MALLET BEFORE YOU UNDERSTAND THEM.
You're watching videos for the wrong kind of crankset. If you had a two-piece crankset like a Shimano Hollowtech II crankset or BB30, then yes, that would be the case. The crankset's spindle would be part of the drive-side crank arm, along with the chainrings. But you don't have a two-piece crankset.
You have an SR SunTour Hexon cartridge bottom bracket & three-piece crankset. On a three-piece crankset, the spindle is a separate part from each crank arm. The drive-side crank arm removes just like the one you've already removed, and the chainrings will come off with the crank arm. The spindle is an integral part of the bottom bracket; if you smack it with a hammer, you're only smashing your bearings.
Once you have both crank arms removed, you can then remove your bottom bracket if necessary. To remove it, you'll need a splined bottom bracket tool like a Park Tool BBT-22 or BBT-32 and a wrench to turn it.
The SR SunTour Hexon system is basically like a common square taper cartridge bottom bracket, except the spindle has six faces instead of four.
They may look like outboard bearings (in such a small pic), but check out the shape of the spindle or the cutouts in the crank arm. They're hexagonal. It's SR SunTour's proprietary 'Hexon' setup.
You have an SR SunTour Hexon cartridge bottom bracket & three-piece crankset. On a three-piece crankset, the spindle is a separate part from each crank arm. The drive-side crank arm removes just like the one you've already removed, and the chainrings will come off with the crank arm. The spindle is an integral part of the bottom bracket; if you smack it with a hammer, you're only smashing your bearings.
Once you have both crank arms removed, you can then remove your bottom bracket if necessary. To remove it, you'll need a splined bottom bracket tool like a Park Tool BBT-22 or BBT-32 and a wrench to turn it.
The SR SunTour Hexon system is basically like a common square taper cartridge bottom bracket, except the spindle has six faces instead of four.
They may look like outboard bearings (in such a small pic), but check out the shape of the spindle or the cutouts in the crank arm. They're hexagonal. It's SR SunTour's proprietary 'Hexon' setup.
Last edited by SkyDog75; 04-19-17 at 11:28 AM.
#14
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Thanks for the replies. There are a number of screws holding the drive side crank on including ones going into the granny ring which need removing. I'm terms of removing the bb will the bb22 32 do the job? I've included a pic which shows a black ring with teeth on the crank spindle. Not sure how those remove all tools would attach to this?
#15
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Good eyes Skydog75 .
#16
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From: Upstate NY
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Maybe not as good as I thought... Upon further review, with the new pictures he posted, it doesn't look like a three-piece setup with a Hexon cartridge. It does look like a two-piece crankset. I hadn't seen one with a hexagonal spindle before, but sure enough, SR SunTour shows 'em on their web site:
Details - SR SUNTOUR Cycling
...and while I was poking around the site, I found documentation with helpful diagrams for installation and removal:
https://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/fil...-01-140514.pdf
He has to remove the serrated lockring on the non-drive side using something like a hook spanner before tapping the spindle through.
Details - SR SUNTOUR Cycling
...and while I was poking around the site, I found documentation with helpful diagrams for installation and removal:
https://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/fil...-01-140514.pdf
He has to remove the serrated lockring on the non-drive side using something like a hook spanner before tapping the spindle through.






