Having trouble removing a stuck pedal from my road Bike.
its a Cervelo and its carbon frame

can't take the pedal off from drive side, its a Rotor brand crank
with look pedal, so only can use allen key to take off.

I been trying my hardest but it wont move at all. suggestions?

All the more help the better
yes i been turning it counter clock wise. but still nothing

Try turning clockwise to break the thread seal, and then turn counter clockwise. Use penetrating oil on both sides of the crank arm. Let the oil soak for a half hour then try to remove the pedal. If that doesn't work the last resort is a propane torch to heat the threads of the pedal.

counter clockwise as seen from the inside of the crank or the outside?

Yes, counterclockwise from the inside will tighten the right pedal. If you are using a key from the threaded end you have to turn it clockwise to loosen.

i am very confused now. so to confirm? it is clockwise to turn allen key to loosen?
this is on right pedal that is attached to crank arm? when i have to turn from the spindle?
is this true?

I use a long , Park, shop pedal wrench, and for stuck pedals have the bike on the ground
and step on the wrench handle..

Sometimes I have one of my shop mates hold the other side pedal.

Yes, looking from the inside of the crank arm, to loosen a drive side pedal (right-hand threads) you have to turn the hex wrench clockwise.

ok interesting, as i been looking at videos and they show using counter clockwise

here is the video link

take a look and tell me why they are turning counter clockwise in this video? thanks as now i am confused

The wrench always turns towards the back of the bike to loosen a pedal, towards the front to tighten. Doesn't matter what side of the bike you're on.

At 1:53 in the video, they are removing a right-hand pedal and are clearly turning the wrench clockwise as viewed from the crank side.
If videos are confusing you then get yourself an ordinary nut and bolt and put them in the position of the crank and pedal and see how you turn the bolt to back it out of the nut.

This. Brian's description is perfect, forget inside outside clockwise counter-clockwise left right.

True, true-- better than remembering, right is right and left is wrong, since it implies you know the pedal is to be thought of as the bolt and the crank arm as the nut...

I've had to pretty much destroy pedals to get them off in the past. Try to remove the pedal from the pedal axle. Once the pedal axle is exposed you can put a 14" pipe wrench on it. That will bust just about anything loose.

Remember, pedals tighten the same way they move - so tighten to the front. I've had stuck pedals and twice finally gave up and brought to the shop where it came right off leaving me to feel totally stoopid. I chalked it up to the fact that their wrenches were longer and had more leverage or that I loosened it up for them.

You may just not have a long enough hex wrench - either use a piece of pipe over the end of the wrench for additional leverage or use a ratchet wrench with a hex adapter.

I've found use of a dead blow hammer to get a firm bolt loosened does wonders. If you don't know what one is ask somebody at your local hardware store. They are plastic with sand in there and a great tool for busting things loose or seating things (much better than a rubber mallet ime). Less chance of stripping a bolt using one of these.

Also, a heat gun might help loosen it up if it is really bad (or a hair dryer if you don't have a heat gun but that doesn't get as hot).

The non-drive side pedal is left-hand thread. If you can remove the arm from the bike, with the pedal attached, and clamp it in a bench vise you will be able to get better leverage. Use a hex socket mounted on a breaker bar, and cheater pipe if needed. With the arm clamped in the vise, pedal pointing down, hex socket inserted from the back side of the arm, turn counter-clockwise to loosen.

But OP is trying to remove a drive side pedal.

I just remember "Back Off". That way I always turn it in the correct direction.

Long pedal wrenches are the key here. The shorter cheaper ones suck compared to the Park tool long one.

After you've made sure you're turning the correct way (as stated correctly above, if you are standing on the NONdriveside of the bike putting an allen into the spindle of a DRIVESIDE pedal, you need to turn clockwise. If you are standing on the DRIVE side of the bike, the same correct turn will be from that perspective counterclockwise. Either way, if the allen wrench is sticking UP you need to push it to the BACK of the bike.)

If it's still stuck, here's what I'd do. Put the bike upside down. move the driveside crank so it's sticking straight up. Since it's a hex wrench, you've got six choices how to put the wrench in, 60 degrees apart. Choose the position that has the wrench a little rearward of the crank. (If dead straight down is one of the six positions, that's a worst possible case, and the wrench-to-crank angle will be a relatively wide 60 degrees).

Grab the crank and allen wrench together in your hands and squeeze. Or try to immobilize the crank and bang the wrench with a hammer.

Alternatively, put the cranks horizontal, with the right crank to the rear of the bike. With two hands, lean all your bodyweight on the left/forward crank, and the end of the wrench. If necessary, extend the leverage of the allen wrench with a metal pipe (I have a removable handle for my car jack that works great for this)

I have had to put a 2x4 in between the crank and the frame to hold that in place (easier to get a friend to hold the board) then use an allen socket with a 25" breaker bar to get the pedal to come loose after the penetrating oil treatment.