about 15 miles into a 30 mile ride my rear hub decided to give up the ghost. I now want to replace instead of rebuild. I don't think the current hubs are worth rebuilding.

the wheels are 50mm carbons with 254mm/10 inch spokes that I would like to reuse. (open to suggestions on this)

the current hub measures 71.5 diameter edge to edge / 24 spoke/ rear spacing 130mm /10 speed sram compatible.

any suggestions on which hub to use?

I have dura ace cup and cone hubs on my clincher wheelset and I think they are awesome. I just rebuild them a couple of times a year and they never give me any problems.

I really don't know what other dimensions I would need to have so please let me know if you need something else to give a suggestion on what to get.

I would like to have something reasonably lightweight but more important to be durable.

thanks

re-use of the spokes is going to be next to impossible unless you get exactly the same hub.

what is wrong with the hub?

Given that you like your Dura Ace; just get Dura Ace hubs with the matching number of holes, and spokes the correct length.

yep that maybe the best option.

i have only ridden these wheels for less then 4-5 months and even then not that often as i have another wheelset. i don't ride in the rain and try to stay out of the mud and yet when i opened the rear hub up it was full of grit. i don't think they seal very well. my DA hubs can ride in same conditions and when i open them up they are fine i clean regrease and adjust and they are good for another six months or more.

Edge-to-edge is a nearly useless measurement. Spoke circle diameter would have been a tad more useful.

Looks like cartridge bearings. They're fairly cheap. Once you know how, about equal in time to replace compared to a clean & lube. Cartridge bearings come in different seal qualities. If you have problems with yours getting gritty, maybe try some with better seals.

SpoCalc has a list of about 840 different hubs. Also the measurements and dimensions you would expect. Other spoke calculators may be more up to date.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/spocalc.htm

Anyway, you could look to see if there are any hubs that are close.

I just bought a bunch of Sapim bladed spokes. They weren't cheap, although those may be just a generic spoke.

Anyway, as nfmisso asked, what type of hub did you have, and what is wrong with it?

Sealed cartridge bearings are pretty generic, and cheap.

The page you linked to on Sheldon Brown's site has diagrams farther down the page that show the measurements needed for the spoke length calculator. If your hub isn't listed, it's easy to measure it yourself.

It might not be a good idea to use numbers from a hub that's "close"... and how do you know it's close without measuring anyway?

Steve

Looking at your hubs, I notice that the spoke holes don't line up with the cutouts. In fact, they don't synch up with them. Who would design such a hub?

Is this a principle of hub design? Just asking... I am not an expert in this area.
Odd number (5) of slots, even number (6) of spoke pairs... something's not going to line up!

Off topic: I LoL'd at your tag line. Best!
Steve

Yes, it is. You are supposed to have the spokes angles such that they are pulling away from the 'columns', rather than from the cutouts. With an un-synched setup like yours, it varies from 1 hole to the next. Also, the spoke holes going through a machining shoulder is very poor design.

If you look at the spoke at about the 11:30 ;position, it is pulling on the cutout, and is MUCH more likely to rip the flange than the one at the 3:00 position. This hub design is a mess...if ther ever WAS a design. It makes no sense from an engineering design standpoint.

Looks like they were just trying to look expensive and light. I assume these were cheap wheels?

DT Swiss 350 is the best hub for cost/reliability. Some are lighter, none are more reliable. You don't have that many options for 24H, DT is one of the best. The freehub is legendary for its ruggedness and reliability. To repair/replace it, you simply pull it off the hub, no tools needed. The hub's endcaps are replaced by hand and every axle convention/specification is supported.

It doesn't effect the hub's reliablity at all. No design staff is going to spec a different hub flange for every hole count. The same shell is used for 36/32/28/24/20....

Look at the wheels on vehicles - 5 lug nuts, six spokes are very common, and other combinations.....

But I agree, they just don't look to me. One of my mentors said: "...if it doesn't look right, something is wrong..."

As I have stated here on BikeForums ad naseum, SpokeCalc is a calculator with a starter database....of mostly older outdated or no longer available rims.

It's strength is the calculator...not the database.

...database gets better as YOU update it.

=8-)

Campy, Phil, White Industries, Paul, etc...

OP

It would appear your old hub is 24 hole laced 2X.

You need to find a hub that has the same

1. hole center to hole center diameter in miilimeters - or within a millimeter.
2. same offsets for non-drive side and drive side - within a couple millimeters for each side.

For example, a typical 7-speed basic rear alloy hub will be:

d = 45.00 mm (flange hole center to hole center diameter)
C_Left = 36.00 mm (center to flange center - left side or non-drive offset)
C_Right = 18.00 mm (center to flange center - right side or drive side offset)

So you'll have to measure yours...and find a very close match.

=8-)

So far I haven't found a better hub database, although on the bottom of the Sheldon Brown page, there was a list of other spoke calculators, some of which also included hub & rim databases.

It might be a start, if not looking for the latest 11s hubs.
The bearings were gritty, or the hub had grit inside? It should be hard to get grit past sealed bearing cartridges, depending on the axle design.

It would seem the bearing seals would be dependent on the actual bearings, and perhaps how much resistance is acceptable.

Anyway, sealed cartridge bearings should be easy enough to replace. Make sure they aren't tightened down to create lateral stress on the bearings.

But, I can also imagine the frustration of a fairly new set of wheels going bad.

Wheels By Fleming Bicycle Wheels Documents - mrrabbit.net

spreadsheet

or try EDD online...

https://leonard.io/edd/


The tool, (the calculator itself) is more important than the database because:

1. Too many people do not include references for each item in their database.
2. It's always better to measure hub specs and ERD's yourself.


=8-)

The ProWheelBuilder website has a good, modern database:
Spoke Calculator for bicycle wheels | Prowheelbuilder.com

I don't know about the design as I don't really build wheels but msrp was $2500 I don't know if that is considered a cheap wheel or not.

I also don't like the design of the hub that is why I was asking about a replacement hub.

looks like right now I can replace two bearings that happen to be in the freehub and get these back to usable. they are fast and light when they are working and I guess I'm just going to have to do as suggested and get some better sealed bearings and also clean them once a month till I can get a new hub and do it right.

good replies and suggestions. thanks

BTW I pulled my DA hubs apart because I have been riding them in the exact same or worse conditions as these and I was concerned that maybe they were gunked up also. nope they were as clean as when I last serviced them.

they were full of mud and the bearings in the freehub had assploded to where they were in bits and pieces all over the place. very gruesome scene. now you know why my first thought was new hubs

the more I get into these hubs the more I don't like them. I'm not sure if this is common practice but one of the bearings in the freehub has a sleeve around it to make a 24mm OD bearing into a 25.7mm. who would do that and why? why not just use a standard 24 or 26mm bearing with no sleeve?

Wait, are you asking about why the bicycle industry is doing something weird instead of adhering to already known standards?

Really, for the bike industry, ignoring standards is standard behaviour.

The whole damn industry is infected by this...

...and it's all driven by ******* marketers and salespersons looking to create a "NEW!" niche market for themselves from which to drive new sales....

...cause they know they can't compete in already mature and crowded existing markets.

Worse is when they dig up old dead and buried standards such as 27.5 or certain flavors of 650x and institute the zombie apocalypse.

Or call one thing (700c) something else (29er) only to confuse the **** out of a customer who just wants to ride.

And don't get me started on dead and buried "gimmicks" . . .

. . . usually brought back to life by "Joe Smith" who thinks he's smart BUT even the industry is guilty of it . . .

. . . such as "zero" dish wheels. Yes a brand name actually is guilty of doing it - and even labelled their freaking hubs as such.

I guess I am glad that I just work on the few bikes I have

In pharmaceutical research, most ideas for new drugs fail. Biology is complex, and the body fights back against a lot of therapies. That doesn't stop the partisan true believer from trying to resurrect his failed therapeutic compound idea at every chance he gets. My friend Joe (Exec Director at a top firm) once answered a question I asked:
"Joe, do you have a hard time killing compounds?"
"Nope. No problem killing 'em. I do, however, have a hard time keeping them dead".

So it is with some bad bike ideas.