Seized bottom bracket cup
#2
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Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
well... get that crank arm off first... THEN clean the splines, and use the correct tool to remove it, maybe...
park tool BBT-32.
park tool BBT-32.
#5
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From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
that looks like a sealed bearing BB to me... putting the penetrant in, and letting it soak for a day, will free up any rusting that WILL build up between the cup and BB body...
Get the splines cleaned out first, then install the remover i mentioned above... move the cup BOTH ways to help loosen it... be patient, and work the threads to help clean them as you unscrew that cup... it will unscrew counter-clockwise...
once you get it removed... CLEAN ALL THE THREADS... then put a bit of grease on the frame threads, all over the inside of the frame's BB interior, and inside the cup, before reinstalling the new Bottom bracket assy.... anti-seize would be a good choice also, but not everyone has it handy.
and REMEMBER.. the DRIVE side BB threads are REVERSE threads... turn clock-wise to remove.
Last edited by maddog34; 07-17-17 at 02:10 AM.
#7
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.... You need to get the crank arm off before you can use the cup removal tool. You will need a crank removal tool, crank puller, to remove the crank.
Oh... There will be a dust cap on the crank arm. It will either pop off or unscrew. Under that you will find a nut or bolt, 14mm or 15mm. Remove it. As maddog suggests in the case of your cup the same applies to the arm. You will have to lay the bike on its side and squirt some penetrating/release fluid in it and leave things for a day, replenish.
Then you screw the extractor into the thread, make sure you have fully unwound the centre pin. Once it is in place and tightened wind the centre pin back down. Be careful and watch that the outer part of the tool remains seated. If it does not then you are stripping the threads on the crank. You have either bought a cheap crank puller or you need to spend more time with the penetrating fluid.
..
Oh... There will be a dust cap on the crank arm. It will either pop off or unscrew. Under that you will find a nut or bolt, 14mm or 15mm. Remove it. As maddog suggests in the case of your cup the same applies to the arm. You will have to lay the bike on its side and squirt some penetrating/release fluid in it and leave things for a day, replenish.
Then you screw the extractor into the thread, make sure you have fully unwound the centre pin. Once it is in place and tightened wind the centre pin back down. Be careful and watch that the outer part of the tool remains seated. If it does not then you are stripping the threads on the crank. You have either bought a cheap crank puller or you need to spend more time with the penetrating fluid.
..
Last edited by chorlton; 07-17-17 at 07:07 AM.
#10
Take the crank arm off!!!
So are you just not reading what people are telling you.
Take the crank arm off
Use removal tool to take off the cup. GRIP THE FRAME
So are you just not reading what people are telling you.
Take the crank arm off
Use removal tool to take off the cup. GRIP THE FRAME
Last edited by trailangel; 07-17-17 at 02:44 PM.
#11
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#12
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#13
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The crank arm is the problem ! The spindle is moving around freely I don't have the bracket to attach to it to get it fixed in place to be able to turn the crank removal tool.
#14
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I didn't explain myself well. The crank arm is the actual issue. The spindle is moving around freely in don't have the brick to put it on to get it to be able to be gripped by the removal tool .
#15
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You can probably cut off the crank arm with a hacksaw diagonally. The crank arm is made of soft aluminum.
It would be nice to see the front of the crank arm. Are the threads for the extractor gone?
You can use a universal puller from Harbor Freight.
It would be nice to see the front of the crank arm. Are the threads for the extractor gone?
You can use a universal puller from Harbor Freight.
Last edited by Barabaika; 07-17-17 at 03:51 PM.
#16
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Maybe *I* didn't explain myself well...
1) Get a crank arm removal tool and read the instructions. Seek help if necessary.
2) Screw the crank arm removal tool into the crank arm. Start this process by hand to prevent cross-threading your crank, then screw it in further with a wrench. There is no "brick" needed. Seek help if necessary.
3) Following the instructions, turn the bolt on the crank arm removal tool to press the crank arm off the bottom bracket spindle (aka "crank axle"). You will need to hold the crank arm while you do this. There is no "brick" needed. Seek help if necessary.
4) Get the bottom bracket removal tool and read the instructions. Seek help if necessary.
5) Following the instructions, insert the tool into the internal splines of the bottom bracket. Attach a long wrench and apply force. On the "Non-Drive Side" (the one you showed), you will turn *counter-clock-wise* (as you face the frame). Seek help if needed.
6) On the "Drive Side", repeat the previous step, remembering to turn the wrench *clock-wise* (as you face the frame. Seek help if needed.
That should pretty well cover it. Be sure to post images of your broken crank axle.
Steve
EDIT: What Barabaika said^^. A side view of the crank would be helpful. If the crank is broken, hold the remaining piece in a vise-grip. No bricks are necessary at any point.
1) Get a crank arm removal tool and read the instructions. Seek help if necessary.
2) Screw the crank arm removal tool into the crank arm. Start this process by hand to prevent cross-threading your crank, then screw it in further with a wrench. There is no "brick" needed. Seek help if necessary.
3) Following the instructions, turn the bolt on the crank arm removal tool to press the crank arm off the bottom bracket spindle (aka "crank axle"). You will need to hold the crank arm while you do this. There is no "brick" needed. Seek help if necessary.
4) Get the bottom bracket removal tool and read the instructions. Seek help if necessary.
5) Following the instructions, insert the tool into the internal splines of the bottom bracket. Attach a long wrench and apply force. On the "Non-Drive Side" (the one you showed), you will turn *counter-clock-wise* (as you face the frame). Seek help if needed.
6) On the "Drive Side", repeat the previous step, remembering to turn the wrench *clock-wise* (as you face the frame. Seek help if needed.
That should pretty well cover it. Be sure to post images of your broken crank axle.

Steve
EDIT: What Barabaika said^^. A side view of the crank would be helpful. If the crank is broken, hold the remaining piece in a vise-grip. No bricks are necessary at any point.
Last edited by sweeks; 07-17-17 at 03:36 PM.
#17
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From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
and there is no BRACKET involved... the crank remover tool screws into the the crank arm, using the threads that also keep the dust cover on the center of the crank arm...
at this point, it is obvious that you need to take the bike to a bike shop, and have THEM remove the arm.
at this point, it is obvious that you need to take the bike to a bike shop, and have THEM remove the arm.
#18
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Uhm-Kay... Looking back at your pictures it would appear that there has been some damage to the face of the crank that is on the bottom bracket side which might suggest someone else has already stripped the crank threads for you and used some other means to get the arm off in the past. I am assuming you have both tools that have been mentioned previously but when you try to use the crank extractor it is not biting the thread in the crank because there is no thread... If that is the case you will have to be more brutal... I assume you have the right sized spanners.
#19
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Uhm-Kay... Looking back at your pictures it would appear that there has been some damage to the face of the crank that is on the bottom bracket side which might suggest someone else has already stripped the crank threads for you and used some other means to get the arm off in the past. I am assuming you have both tools that have been mentioned previously but when you try to use the crank extractor it is not biting the thread in the crank because there is no thread... If that is the case you will have to be more brutal... I assume you have the right sized spanners.
#22
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#23
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I got the crank and chain ring on the driver side off. The problem is the spindle is now moving freely and loose in the bracket . The crank arm is still attached and blocking me from applying any tools. I need to separate the spindle from the arm. That is my main issue that the other crank arm isn't present to give it resistance to use the crank removal tool
Maybe you are just playing games or you do not have the required number of hands/arms. That's cool. Try using your foot to apply the resistance.
Last edited by chorlton; 07-17-17 at 04:40 PM.
#25
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OK... so you used a crank extractor to remove the drive side crank arm. Same method applies to the non-drive side but this time you use the non-drive side arm to apply the resistance... the same as you did with the drive side one? You hold the crank arm steady with one hand and use your spanner to operate the tool with your other hand.
Maybe you are just playing games or you do not have the required number of hands/arms. That's cool. Try using your foot to apply the resistance.
Maybe you are just playing games or you do not have the required number of hands/arms. That's cool. Try using your foot to apply the resistance.



