...no. Just hold onto the arm that's still on there. Or you could start hitting it with a big hammer. That's always satisfying, even if it doesn't solve the problem.

I kind of get that one but fail to understand why you are incapable of doing the same on the other side assuming the threads are not stripped. Remove the nut/bolt. Hold the crank arm. Screw in the extractor. Hold the crank arm Screw in the centre plug. Crank Pops off... other stuff about penetrating/releasing fluids.

You may have to sit down and try/think about it and then try/think about it a few more times. It is very tempting to pour disdain on Fixie riders and you are not helping.

Seek professional help.

Why? Hath not a Fixie rider eyes? Hath not a Fixie rider hands, organs, dimensions, senses, affections, passions? Fed with the same food, hurt with the same weapons, subject to the same diseases, healed by the same means, warmed and cooled by the same winter and summer as a Freewheel rider is? If you prick us, do we not bleed? If you tickle us, do we not laugh? If you poison us, do we not die? And if you wrong us, shall we not revenge? If we are like you in the rest, we will resemble you in that. If a Fixie rider wrong a Freewheel rider, what is his humility? Revenge. If a Freewheel rider wrong a Fixie rider, what should his sufferance be by Freewheel rider example? Why, revenge.

With sincere apologies to William Shakespeare!
Steve

That works. Otherwise stop converting, downgrading, vintage road bikes to fixies and trying to sell them at a premium. Especially if you do not have the basic skill set to do so. My next door neighbour has a BMX and he is like I am too big for this bike coz if I sit on the saddle my knees get in the way of my chin but if I really try hard I can skid the back tyre and I am like I ride my bike to go from A to B and buy cat food so what is your actual point and he is like I don't own a cat. Unassailable. My cat poops in his garden so I guess I surreptitiously won that one.

I probably should have added that I am *not* a fixed-gear enthusiast. The four bikes that I ride on a regular basis have 70 gear combinations among them (average: 17.5).
Just playing Devil's Advocate.
Steve

No, you don't need the other arm. And it doesn't matter if the spindle is loose; it could be completely detached from everything but the crank arm and a crank puller will still work.

After you remove the crank arm from the spindle, you'll be able to insert a splined bottom bracket tool to remove the bottom bracket cartridge.

Thank you for your help!

I hammered it a bit trying to slip the spindle out , that shouldn't affect the difficult of taking it off will it . Like did I jam it in possibly

You should be abole to screw the crank extractor into the the threads of your left crank. Screw it in until you feel it hit the bottom of the threads. Now, screw the center bolt of the extractor in until it hits the end of the BB axle. Now put a big wrench on the head of the center bolt. Standing in front of the BB (with it in a stand), place your left hand on the crank at 9:00 (ie aimed at the front hub), right on the wrench at 12:00 (aimed at the top tube) and pull your hands together. Do this a few times and the crank will slide off. The fact that the axle assembly is loose doesn't matter at all.

Ben

You don't need one crank arm on to remove the other crank arm. Else, you'd never get both crank arms off at the same time. Right now, you have a semi-loose spindle, stuck in the bottom bracket, with a crank arm attached, right?

1) From the attached crank arm, remove the cap, probably using a hex key. This is the cap that screws into the crank arm and covers the spindle end. You don't need the other crank arm installed for this.
2) Using a socket wrench, remove the bolt that holds the crank arm onto the spindle. You don't need the other crank arm installed for this.
3) Screw a crank removal tool into the crank, where the cap was. The cap threads should match your crank removal tool's threads. You don't need the other crank arm installed for this.
4) Using two wrenches, both on the crank removal tool, screw the center part of the tool against the spindle. The arm should come off. If it's sticky, whack the center part of the crank removal tool with a hammer - this should loosen things. Remove the arm. You don't need the other crank arm installed for this.
5) Now that the crank arm is out of the way, clean the internal splines on that cup, and use the correct bottom bracket wrench to unscrew it. You don't need the other crank arm installed for this.

If you noticed, there is one consistent fact: You don't need the other crank arm installed for any of this. The other crank arm is immaterial. Doesn't matter. Stop thinking about it. Remove the crank arm that's still on the spindle, using a crank removal tool. Then use the proper BB wrench to remove the cup.

When you are removing an arm, either side, of a square taper crank, it is entirely immaterial whether the crank is installed, or partially installed, or completely removed from the bike. The other arm doesn't matter at all. Stop talking about the other arm not being there. The Park Tool video shows how to remove the arm after you've removed the cap and the bolt: