Is a chain tensioner really necessary?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Is a chain tensioner really necessary?
Hello all
I'm finishing up a single speed conversion on a bike I'm putting a motor on, and as I'm extemley cheap I haven't actually bought any parts for this bike, I'm running out of solutions to making my own parts. The last step is putting on the chain, but after doing some research I've found out that I need a chain tensioner. Now I refuse to spend even $5 on a chain tensioner purely out of principle, and I have made one, but it dosent fit around the cog because of where the bolt sits. ANYWAYS, after three or four prototypes I came to the stunning conclusion that if I just took out the extra links on my chain I could make it tight enough where I don't even need the tensioner. Is there some weird reason why you shouldn't take links out? Because if not then idk why anyone would buy a tensioner in the first place. I just don't want to do more damage then good and end up with a broken chain. Any answers would help thanks
I'm finishing up a single speed conversion on a bike I'm putting a motor on, and as I'm extemley cheap I haven't actually bought any parts for this bike, I'm running out of solutions to making my own parts. The last step is putting on the chain, but after doing some research I've found out that I need a chain tensioner. Now I refuse to spend even $5 on a chain tensioner purely out of principle, and I have made one, but it dosent fit around the cog because of where the bolt sits. ANYWAYS, after three or four prototypes I came to the stunning conclusion that if I just took out the extra links on my chain I could make it tight enough where I don't even need the tensioner. Is there some weird reason why you shouldn't take links out? Because if not then idk why anyone would buy a tensioner in the first place. I just don't want to do more damage then good and end up with a broken chain. Any answers would help thanks
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 3,794
Bikes: Bianchi San Mateo and a few others
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 634 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
9 Posts
If your frame has horizontal dropouts, you can slide the rear wheel all the way forward to get the chain around the sprocket, then slide it back in the dropout to set your chain tension just right. If your frame has vertical dropouts, though, you can't move the wheel forward or back in the slot. That's where a chain tensioner comes in handy.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 37,685
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 134 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5257 Post(s)
Liked 1,568 Times
in
897 Posts
Here again, the devil is in the details. If you have horizontal dropouts, you don't need a tensioner because you can slide the wheel back to get minimal chain slack (not tension). With vertical dropouts, that option is gone, so unless the length works out close serendipitously, you'll need to improvise something.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,570
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17859 Post(s)
Liked 4,282 Times
in
3,195 Posts
If you have some type of horizontal or track dropouts on the bike, there is no reason for a chain tensioner. Just cut the chain to length, then pull the chain tight by moving the wheel.
Half links are available for some chains to make it easier to use short dropouts, or to give you a bit more adjustment.
If you have vertical dropouts, then it is much more difficult to ensure perfect chain tension.
Also keep in mind that as chains wear, they will stretch slightly. So, if your tension is perfect now, put 5000 miles on the chain, and the tension will be off.
Half links are available for some chains to make it easier to use short dropouts, or to give you a bit more adjustment.
If you have vertical dropouts, then it is much more difficult to ensure perfect chain tension.
Also keep in mind that as chains wear, they will stretch slightly. So, if your tension is perfect now, put 5000 miles on the chain, and the tension will be off.
#5
Senior Member
Being 1 link too loose is enough for low tension to be a problem.
Bicycles that are designed for single speed usually either have horizontal dropouts or track ends, allowing the wheel to be positioned so that the chain is sufficiently tight, without using a tensioner. This is why vintage road bikes are popular for 1x conversions; they just about always have horizontal rear dropouts.
If you don't have horizontal dropouts, then you either need a tensioner, or some other mechanism like an eccentric hub. Or, if you're really desperate, there are some kludgy solutions like fudging with the sizes of your cog and chainring to adjust chain tension.
This page is a good reference.
Bicycles that are designed for single speed usually either have horizontal dropouts or track ends, allowing the wheel to be positioned so that the chain is sufficiently tight, without using a tensioner. This is why vintage road bikes are popular for 1x conversions; they just about always have horizontal rear dropouts.
If you don't have horizontal dropouts, then you either need a tensioner, or some other mechanism like an eccentric hub. Or, if you're really desperate, there are some kludgy solutions like fudging with the sizes of your cog and chainring to adjust chain tension.
This page is a good reference.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Yup looks like I have vertical dropouts. I also made my tensioner from an old rear derailleur, so now I just gotta figure out a way to attach it without the bolt getting in the way. Thanks to all for help though.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,589
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 239 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
7 Posts
You need Some Form of chain tension adjustment
either horizontal dropouts -you dont have them
a dedicated chain tensioner -you dont want to spend money
a rear derailer used as a tensioner -go for it!
going the route of 'the chain is just the right length if I take out these links' doesn't work long term. Because chains wear down and get longer (pivots get looser) over time and then it's no longer the right length anymore.
so between constantly buying new chains, $$$ in the long run
or spending on a chain tensioner $ or modified derailer now
a tensioner/derailer is cheaper
either horizontal dropouts -you dont have them
a dedicated chain tensioner -you dont want to spend money
a rear derailer used as a tensioner -go for it!
going the route of 'the chain is just the right length if I take out these links' doesn't work long term. Because chains wear down and get longer (pivots get looser) over time and then it's no longer the right length anymore.
so between constantly buying new chains, $$$ in the long run
or spending on a chain tensioner $ or modified derailer now
a tensioner/derailer is cheaper
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The bike I'm doing the conversion on did have a derailer, but the chain tensioner I made was from a different derailer from a different crappy pacific bike. Plus I'm not just using the derailer as the tensioner I took the mount off the old derailer and used it to MAKE a new tensioner. The only reason it dosent fit is cuz the bolt is too big and since it sits in the old derailers spot, it hits the cog.