The rust begins.....
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 174
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From: Tomball, Texas
Bikes: '91 Klein Quantum
The rust begins.....
So I take fairly good care of my chain, rings, and cassette. Today I noticed a little bit of rust on 2-3 links. Does this mean it is the end of my chain?
I've had the bike for a year. The bike is a pass down from 3 generations ('91 Klein Quantum) I do NOT know the last time the chain was replaced, yes it is stretched, yes the entire drivetrain has worn down with the chain, no I do not have enough money to replace the entire drivetrain.
Again,
1. Is this the end for the chain?
2. Is there anything I can do to keep using it?
3. Will a new chain on very old rings and cassette make shifting catastrophic?
I've had the bike for a year. The bike is a pass down from 3 generations ('91 Klein Quantum) I do NOT know the last time the chain was replaced, yes it is stretched, yes the entire drivetrain has worn down with the chain, no I do not have enough money to replace the entire drivetrain.
Again,
1. Is this the end for the chain?
2. Is there anything I can do to keep using it?
3. Will a new chain on very old rings and cassette make shifting catastrophic?
#2
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
A bit of rust here and there is very common, and usually of no concern. The least concern would be for rust at the edges of the plates or on the rollers. Of greater concern would be significant rust in the center of the plates because it can weaken the chain.
But, chains are over built and only strong sprinters or those climbing steep hills need to worry about chain strength.
From the limited description in the post, I'd say, simply oil the chain to prevent more rust, and forget about it.
But, chains are over built and only strong sprinters or those climbing steep hills need to worry about chain strength.
From the limited description in the post, I'd say, simply oil the chain to prevent more rust, and forget about it.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
2. Oil it.
3. No.
But a new chain on a worn out cassette will result in a chain that jumps on the worn out cog(s) under pedaling pressure.
A new chain on a lightly worn out chainring will result in a noise as the RD tugs the chain off the bottom of the chainring.
A new chain on a heavily worn out chainring will result in chainsuck as the chain sticks to the chainring and gets pulled up into the underside of the FD.
#4
Helpless Bike Fiend


Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 292
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From: Pound Ridge, NY USA
Bikes: 2017 Specialized Roubaix SL4 Sport 105, 2021 Felt Broam 30 GRX810, 2020 Specialized Roubaix Sport 105. 2025 Jamis Renegade C1 GRX
Better headings for post:
Rust never sleeps
No Rust for the Weary
Rust never sleeps
No Rust for the Weary
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Never give a gun to ducks No bike does everything perfectly. In fact, no bike does anything until someone gets on it to ride.
Never give a gun to ducks No bike does everything perfectly. In fact, no bike does anything until someone gets on it to ride.
#5
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Retired to Penang Malaysia originally from UK
Bikes: My 1978 Raleigh from new, 1995 Trek, & constant changing & rebuilding of other bike projects.
If you don't want to spend too much then your options are every limited, its never a good idea just to replace one component in a drive system where all others are also worn. So I would soak it clean, there are many special cleaners of you can use diesel etc, turps etc, if you wish: leave it in to soak change the cleaning fluid until its no longer goes black when you stir it, let it hang bone dry, then re-lub it. Depending on the amount of rust it might be worth touching those areas if on the outside links with a brass wire brush before you clean it.
#6
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Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Stamford, CT; Pownal, VT
Bikes: 2015 Trek Domane 6 disk, 2016 Scott Big Jon Fat Bike
Rust. Lol. Listen,when I went to rehab my girlfriend's old crappy mountain bike which had been sitting in the rain for years just under a tarp, the chain was rusted to ****. All I did was dump a bunch of chain lube on it and work it a bit and it loosened right up. Looks ugly as heck, but works just fine. Not ideal, perhaps, but given how seldom she rides it, it wasn't really worth the effort of a new chain.
So, no, rust is not the end of a chain.
So, no, rust is not the end of a chain.
#7
+1 that a bit of surface rust is no problem for your chain. I've rehabbed some chains that were seriously rusty, to the point that some links wouldn't move, and they worked adequately and lasted quite a while.
There are some good tutorials and videos on the internet that will help you figure out just how worn your drivetrain components are. Usually a cassette is good for 2-3 chains, and the chainrings are good for 2-3 cassettes (your mileage may vary). Cassettes are relatively inexpensive if you stick with entry level components. On many cranksets, it is also possible to just replace the most worn chainring (many riders tend to spend the majority of their time in one ring, leaving the other(s) in relatively good shape). Find out just how worn your components are. The age of the bike has little to do with it, miles ridden, style of riding and maintenance have far more to do with wear. A ruler or Park chain stretch gauge will tell you if the chain needs replacement. If the cassette is also seriously worn, I'd consider replacing it at the same time. Unless the bike has a whole lot of hard miles on it, chances are that the chainrings will be in decent shape.
There are some good tutorials and videos on the internet that will help you figure out just how worn your drivetrain components are. Usually a cassette is good for 2-3 chains, and the chainrings are good for 2-3 cassettes (your mileage may vary). Cassettes are relatively inexpensive if you stick with entry level components. On many cranksets, it is also possible to just replace the most worn chainring (many riders tend to spend the majority of their time in one ring, leaving the other(s) in relatively good shape). Find out just how worn your components are. The age of the bike has little to do with it, miles ridden, style of riding and maintenance have far more to do with wear. A ruler or Park chain stretch gauge will tell you if the chain needs replacement. If the cassette is also seriously worn, I'd consider replacing it at the same time. Unless the bike has a whole lot of hard miles on it, chances are that the chainrings will be in decent shape.
#8
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Joined: Jul 2015
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From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
Here... watch this vid.... and chains don't stretch, they wear.
how to check bicycle chain wear - Bing video
and there are vids on inspecting chain rings and freewheels/cassettes, too., too.
a bit of rust is no biggy... a worn out chain can cause damage to other parts... including your personal parts... think about it.
how to check bicycle chain wear - Bing video
and there are vids on inspecting chain rings and freewheels/cassettes, too., too.
a bit of rust is no biggy... a worn out chain can cause damage to other parts... including your personal parts... think about it.
Last edited by maddog34; 07-25-17 at 10:20 PM.





