Rust
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 71
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From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Rust
I recently bought a cheap used department store road bike. I wanted to get into the sport for fitness but cannot afford to spend a lot of $. So far I love it and it works great for what I need it for. My only issue is that the previous owner did not care for it very well and there is a fair amount of rust present on the cassette and chain. The chain I can deal with but what is the best way for me to care for the cassette? Don't really care about aesthetics just want to stop the problem from getting worse and affecting the performance of the bike. Also what sort of lubricant should I be using?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,345
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From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Use a wire or stiff bristle brush to knock the loose rust off the cogs. There are lots of good chain lubes out there: Pedro's, Chain-L, even chain saw oil in a pinch. Avoid leaving the bike out in the rain and it won't rust again.
#3
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
The cassette is like railroad tracks in that use keeps the working surfaces rust free. The rest barely matters, since there's nearly zero chance that it'll rust through. There's no need to remove the rust, and you can apply some oil to slow or arrest the process. If you do nothing except ride it, chin oil will migrate and protect it anyway.
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Chain-L site
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#4
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
I would scrape or brush off the cog rust where the chain will mesh on the teeth. I wouldn't spend much time doing it, just enough so that the chain rubs off less remaining rust. Either way I would soon remove the chain and give it a thorough cleaning to flush away the rust filled lube.
Interesting story- Years ago I had a 20" 3 speed folding bike. I had loaned it to a friend a year before and got it back with a very rusty chain, almost enough to be not useable. But I was able to free up all the links so reinstalled it then re tensioned the chain. Lubed then rode the bike work a few times. After a couple of weeks I noticed the chain was quite loose. The wheel was in the same location in the drop out as before. But I also noticed that the chain was much more freely turning too. My theory was that the rust that coated the chain link interiors got scraped/rubbed off then carried away as a slurry of oil and rust dust. As the rust left the chain link interior the roller and other parts develop more play and the chain "grows" in length. When I cleaned the chain the solvent run off was very brown. The, now cleaned, chain felt loose and free in the links. Reinstalled it, again re tensioned the chain, lube and ride. The chain proved to be stable in it's now far more rust free state. The bike ran smoothly and the chain remained well tensioned. Andy.
Interesting story- Years ago I had a 20" 3 speed folding bike. I had loaned it to a friend a year before and got it back with a very rusty chain, almost enough to be not useable. But I was able to free up all the links so reinstalled it then re tensioned the chain. Lubed then rode the bike work a few times. After a couple of weeks I noticed the chain was quite loose. The wheel was in the same location in the drop out as before. But I also noticed that the chain was much more freely turning too. My theory was that the rust that coated the chain link interiors got scraped/rubbed off then carried away as a slurry of oil and rust dust. As the rust left the chain link interior the roller and other parts develop more play and the chain "grows" in length. When I cleaned the chain the solvent run off was very brown. The, now cleaned, chain felt loose and free in the links. Reinstalled it, again re tensioned the chain, lube and ride. The chain proved to be stable in it's now far more rust free state. The bike ran smoothly and the chain remained well tensioned. Andy.





