Shift cable/housing replacement
#1
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Joined: Jul 2014
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Bikes: Volagi Viaje (rando/gravel/tour), Cannondale Slice 4 (tri/TT), Motobecane Fantom PLUS X9 (plus tires MTB)
Shift cable/housing replacement
I've recabled bikes before, but this one is a bit different and wanted to run this by the gang for tips/suggestions.
The bike is a Volagi Viaje - a kind of rando/gravel/touring road bike that is my everyday commuter and has a lot of miles on it. It's got the 105/5800 hydraulic disc group set.
I am having some sticky shifting in the rear DR - shifts to bigger cogs fairly reliably but iffy shifting to smaller cogs; sometimes won't shift at all, then you click again and it jumps up two cogs smaller/harder. It was suggested here, which makes sense, that after 6-8k miles it just possibly might be time to replace the shifter cables.
One thing that's different about this bike is that it has full-length cable housings. Every other recable job I have done has either had stretches of cable run inside the frame, or stretches of bare cable alongside the frame. But this bike has cable housings that go all the way from the shifters to the DRs. I don't think I've ever seen that option when ordering cables/housings before. What is the "keyword" I'm going to be searching for? Do you have a favorite brand for this kind of cable housing?
I do have some shift cables laying around, so I was tempted to try just replacing the cables - but my sense is that if stuff is worn out from mileage/grit, I probably need to replace both the cables and the housings.
Would appreciate any other tips or suggestions you may have for this project.
The bike is a Volagi Viaje - a kind of rando/gravel/touring road bike that is my everyday commuter and has a lot of miles on it. It's got the 105/5800 hydraulic disc group set.
I am having some sticky shifting in the rear DR - shifts to bigger cogs fairly reliably but iffy shifting to smaller cogs; sometimes won't shift at all, then you click again and it jumps up two cogs smaller/harder. It was suggested here, which makes sense, that after 6-8k miles it just possibly might be time to replace the shifter cables.
One thing that's different about this bike is that it has full-length cable housings. Every other recable job I have done has either had stretches of cable run inside the frame, or stretches of bare cable alongside the frame. But this bike has cable housings that go all the way from the shifters to the DRs. I don't think I've ever seen that option when ordering cables/housings before. What is the "keyword" I'm going to be searching for? Do you have a favorite brand for this kind of cable housing?
I do have some shift cables laying around, so I was tempted to try just replacing the cables - but my sense is that if stuff is worn out from mileage/grit, I probably need to replace both the cables and the housings.
Would appreciate any other tips or suggestions you may have for this project.
#2
Licensed Bike Geek

Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Los Barriles, Baja Sur, Mexico
Bikes: Look 585, Kirk Terraplane, Serotta Ottrott, Spectrum Super Custom, Hampsten Carbon Leger Tournesol
Cable housing also comes in 'bulk' and is cut to the needed length. I usually buy shift/brake housing from my LBS in the lengths I want; 5'~8' and he charges me by the foot.
Ask for lined housing. I usually buy Shimano or Jagwire.
Ask for lined housing. I usually buy Shimano or Jagwire.
#3
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From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
Shimano compressionless, stranded housings.
jagwire has similar housing, too.
the teflon lined housings are usually "compressionless", and worlds stiffer than the coil stuff.
i have a spool of the shimano that i use on the better bikes.... walmart bikes get the coiled steel type housing.
do be aware that the cable runs can be stiffer to the point of causing a bit of drag/deflection to the steering.... people that ride no-handed a lot have complained on these forums... correct length/routing should reduce that effect to the point of not being an issue.
jagwire has similar housing, too.
the teflon lined housings are usually "compressionless", and worlds stiffer than the coil stuff.
i have a spool of the shimano that i use on the better bikes.... walmart bikes get the coiled steel type housing.
do be aware that the cable runs can be stiffer to the point of causing a bit of drag/deflection to the steering.... people that ride no-handed a lot have complained on these forums... correct length/routing should reduce that effect to the point of not being an issue.
Last edited by maddog34; 08-01-17 at 06:01 PM.
#4
SE Wis

Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
You can add cable stops and eliminate the full housing.
https://www.rivbike.com/products/clamp-on-cable-stops
https://www.rivbike.com/products/clamp-on-cable-stops
#5
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Joined: May 2014
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From: Singapore
Bikes: Voodoo Hoodoo, Linus Libertine
As others have suggested, use compressionless cable housing.
However i am using brake cable housing for my fd and it shifts flawlessly. The only reason i use it is that it is stronger than derailleur cable housing and there is no way the coil would poke out of the rubber outer. My previous set up using derailleur cable housing failed because the strands poked out of the rubber outer.
Full length is simpler to cut, install and remove. Just one cut and two ends to finish (if needed).
However i am using brake cable housing for my fd and it shifts flawlessly. The only reason i use it is that it is stronger than derailleur cable housing and there is no way the coil would poke out of the rubber outer. My previous set up using derailleur cable housing failed because the strands poked out of the rubber outer.
Full length is simpler to cut, install and remove. Just one cut and two ends to finish (if needed).
#6
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
You can buy both brake and shift housing in long coils from 25' upward and cut off exactly what you need. Jagwire or Shimano housings are good.
#7
Mad bike riding scientist




Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Denver, CO
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Use compressionless housing on all index shifters systems. The bike will work better. I regularly replace the coiled housing with the proper housing and can make Helmart bikes purr like the most expensive "good" bike.
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Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Last edited by cyccommute; 08-02-17 at 08:27 AM.
#8
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
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you got proper housing cutting tools ?
+ a bench grinder, its useful in squaring the ends to fit solidly in the ferrules,
which in turn fit solidly in the frame and component housing stops?
some people, here, as I read, like Dremel tools with a metal cutting disc.
...
+ a bench grinder, its useful in squaring the ends to fit solidly in the ferrules,
which in turn fit solidly in the frame and component housing stops?
some people, here, as I read, like Dremel tools with a metal cutting disc.
...
#9
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Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Northern Shenandoah Valley
Bikes: More bikes than riders
My local bike shop carries CGX-SL brake cable housing and LEX-SL shift cable housing, from Jagwire's "Sport Housing" line:
Housing | Jagwire
It seems to be good stuff; I use it on all of my projects, whether it's a bike I'm keeping or not.
Housing | Jagwire
It seems to be good stuff; I use it on all of my projects, whether it's a bike I'm keeping or not.
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