Stem won't release handlebars
#1
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From: Niagara Region
Bikes: Panasonic PT-4500, Miele Touring and Batavus Pro
Stem won't release handlebars
I have a Raleigh Super Grand Prix. The handlebars are slid through a slot in the stem and then a bolt holds them in place.
Now trying to take bars off of the stem. They were held by a bolt which threaded into a hole underneath the stem and which when tightened compressed the stem and held the handlebars.
In the diagram I have attached your see the word "stem". Directly above that word stem you see the opening where you slide the bars in and then the opening is compressed with a bolt.
That bolt is out and I can slide bars back and forth but cannot slide the bars past where they curve. I believe that over the many years the bars were attached the stem, the stem lost any elasticity it had (if that is the right word) and now the hole on the stem won't expand enough to let the bars slide out.
I was thinking of trying to insert something into the part which screws in (not the threads) and then trying to pry the parts enough to allow the bars to slide out.
I can't find anyone who has had this issue before.
Now trying to take bars off of the stem. They were held by a bolt which threaded into a hole underneath the stem and which when tightened compressed the stem and held the handlebars.
In the diagram I have attached your see the word "stem". Directly above that word stem you see the opening where you slide the bars in and then the opening is compressed with a bolt.
That bolt is out and I can slide bars back and forth but cannot slide the bars past where they curve. I believe that over the many years the bars were attached the stem, the stem lost any elasticity it had (if that is the right word) and now the hole on the stem won't expand enough to let the bars slide out.
I was thinking of trying to insert something into the part which screws in (not the threads) and then trying to pry the parts enough to allow the bars to slide out.
I can't find anyone who has had this issue before.
#2
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From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
i push a LARGE flat blade screwdriver into the slot, from the side, using the sides of the blade....... then turn the bars as needed to get them wiggled out...
just don't over-do the spreading process.... aluminum likes to break when bent....
just don't over-do the spreading process.... aluminum likes to break when bent....
#3
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
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From: Coeur d' Alene
Bikes: 3 Chinese Gas Pipe Nerdcycles and 2 Chicago Electroforged Boat Anchors
Picture of entire bar please.
Put the bolt in from the back (threaded side) of the stem. Put a penny in the slot. Screw the bolt in so that it presses against the penny. If you continue screwing the bolt in, it will force stem to spread open. Careful though, only go a tiny amount at a time to see if it's loose enough to release the bar. It's easy to destroy the stem by going too far.
Put the bolt in from the back (threaded side) of the stem. Put a penny in the slot. Screw the bolt in so that it presses against the penny. If you continue screwing the bolt in, it will force stem to spread open. Careful though, only go a tiny amount at a time to see if it's loose enough to release the bar. It's easy to destroy the stem by going too far.
Last edited by SquidPuppet; 08-22-17 at 03:09 PM.
#4
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Bikes: Masi, Giant TCR, Eisentraut (retired), Jamis Aurora Elite, Zullo, Cannondale, 84 & 93 Stumpjumpers, Waterford, Tern D8, Bianchi, Gunner Roadie, Serotta, Serotta Duette, was gifted a Diamond Back
normally you have to turn the handlebars around and over to find a spot that it can wiggle through. that one of the reasons that I like the newer stems that have a face plate.
#5
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From: Niagara Region
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Full shots of bars.
I have tried every which way to slide it free but just that bit too tight.
Will try in morning to use the penny method and the wide screwdriver.
I have tried every which way to slide it free but just that bit too tight.
Will try in morning to use the penny method and the wide screwdriver.
#7
If they went on, they will come off. Spreading the clamp will turn the hole into an oval. As you slide the stem, rotate it so the oval is aligned with the curve. It takes a little wiggling, but it can be done.
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#8
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From: Niagara Region
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Why remove the bars from stem
Ref: the question of why remove them?
The previous owner of bike couldn't remove the stem as the stem bolt was jammed so he started to cut the stem off.
Nice deep scrape in stem.
The previous owner of bike couldn't remove the stem as the stem bolt was jammed so he started to cut the stem off.
Nice deep scrape in stem.
#9
.
...bars have come a long way since those were made. If it were me, I'd toss the bar along with the stem.
Measure the bar diameter at the insertion point into the stem. Not sure, but I have a feeling it might be different from the current standard. There are a ton of Asian bar and stem combinations floating around in the used parts stream that will work on that.
If you are really attached to the original bar for some strange reason, and are going to toss the stem anyway, just use a pry bar to pry open the clamp end of the stem by inserting it into the slot.
...bars have come a long way since those were made. If it were me, I'd toss the bar along with the stem.
Measure the bar diameter at the insertion point into the stem. Not sure, but I have a feeling it might be different from the current standard. There are a ton of Asian bar and stem combinations floating around in the used parts stream that will work on that.
If you are really attached to the original bar for some strange reason, and are going to toss the stem anyway, just use a pry bar to pry open the clamp end of the stem by inserting it into the slot.
#10
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From: Bozeman
Bikes: 199? Landshark Roadshark, 198? Mondonico Diamond, 1987 Panasonic DX-5000, 1987 Bianchi Limited, Univega... Chrome..., 1989 Schwinn Woodlands, Motobecane USA Record, Raleigh Tokul 2
.
...bars have come a long way since those were made. If it were me, I'd toss the bar along with the stem.
Measure the bar diameter at the insertion point into the stem. Not sure, but I have a feeling it might be different from the current standard. There are a ton of Asian bar and stem combinations floating around in the used parts stream that will work on that.
If you are really attached to the original bar for some strange reason, and are going to toss the stem anyway, just use a pry bar to pry open the clamp end of the stem by inserting it into the slot.
...bars have come a long way since those were made. If it were me, I'd toss the bar along with the stem.
Measure the bar diameter at the insertion point into the stem. Not sure, but I have a feeling it might be different from the current standard. There are a ton of Asian bar and stem combinations floating around in the used parts stream that will work on that.
If you are really attached to the original bar for some strange reason, and are going to toss the stem anyway, just use a pry bar to pry open the clamp end of the stem by inserting it into the slot.
Actually, the penny method above won't work since your stem uses a nut and not a threaded section. Your best bet is to use a large screwdriver.
I often find that mounting the stem or bars in a vice helps tremendously. I use the side of the vice meant to grab pipes and only clamp as much as needed to hold the part in place.
#11
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From: Mission Viejo
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
Penny, or thick shim, method will work if you can get the in the gap. May have to hold the nut from turning, but you can open that gap until the stem cracks. Nice thing is you don't have to wrestle the handlebars with a screwdriver hanging out of the stem.
John
John
#12
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From: Eastern PA, USA
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 6.9, 1999 LeMond Zurich, 1978 Schwinn Superior
Agree with others: you can buy something newer, better, and cheaper. In fact you have to: riding on a stem with a saw slot it it is pretty precarious. That slot is what we engineer types call a stress concentrator. Imminent, sudden fatigue failure.
The finish on that thing is nice, though. You could look at nice vintage Cinelli 1A stems, with a new bar. Make sure you get the right bar and hole size.
Full disclosure: I have a couple of 1A stems for sale on ebay right now.
The finish on that thing is nice, though. You could look at nice vintage Cinelli 1A stems, with a new bar. Make sure you get the right bar and hole size.
Full disclosure: I have a couple of 1A stems for sale on ebay right now.
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