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Bottom Bracket Install

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Old 08-29-17 | 09:33 AM
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Bottom Bracket Install

Replacing a bottom bracket cartridge with:

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Squar.../dp/B0068FVOEM

Taking the old cartridge out it was heavily covered in grease(1/8 inch thick) on the cartridge surface. I assume this was done for corrosion protection. This is the first time I have every taken a bottom bracket out, so looking inside the bottom bracket shell I see that the chain stay tubes and seat stay are open into the bottom bracket shell. And I have holes in the ends of the chain stay tubes, so water could get into the tubes and travel down to the shell. I want to caulk these holes closed, but maybe this would make it worst for corrosion in the shell(No air circulation). Thoughts on this please?

Second, I am trying to decide what to use, grease or anti-seize on the threads of the bottom bracket. I am trying to make sure of no clicks/creaks, which I had in the old cartridge. If I used anti-seize on the threads then I would grease the bottom bracket area inside the shell. If I just use grease then I would just use that on the threads and inside the shell. I might be over thinking this, but I hate noise in the drive train.

Finally on what grease/anti-seize to use? I have Park grease and Finish Line Teflon grease(white) on hand. For anti-seize I have a jar of auto Permatex anti-seize for aluminum.
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Old 08-29-17 | 09:52 AM
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Bikes: 2013 Specialized Crosstrail Elite, 1986 Centurion Elite RS, Diamondback hardtail MTB, '70s Fuji Special Road Racer, 2012 Raleigh Revenio 2.0, 1992 Trek 1000

Is there a weep hole in the bottom of the BB shell to let the water out? I wouldn't close the ends of the seat stays or chain stays. Sealing them up could seal in a little moisture, and result in hidden corrosion that you won't notice until it's too late to save the frame. If you want to push some grease up into the tubes, to protect the ends from corrosion where brazing or welding may have exposed some raw material, that's probably all you need to do, but leave enough opening to let condensation drain out.

You can use either grease, or anti-seize, on the threads. It's easier to just use the same grease that you used on the bearings. If you repack the bearings, every year or two, you shouldn't ever have to worry about seizing.

Any quality grease is fine. I use marine grease, or axle grease, for hubs/headsets/bottom brackets. I wouldn't use white lithium grease for this purpose, and you probably don't really "need" marine grease, but the additional moisture resistance provides some peace of mind.
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Old 08-29-17 | 10:59 AM
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^^Ya, what he said.
Either use grease or anti-seize or... I use blue thread locker. But don't mix them.
Bikers back east or Pacific NW have different requirements with all wet weather.
Down here in Los Angeles, rarely seeing any rain, I use thread locker.
Don't put caulking in the frame tubes.
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Old 08-29-17 | 11:23 AM
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the aluminum left side sleeve will corrode in place without grease on it..

the plastic one would not corrode, being plastic.
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Old 08-29-17 | 03:35 PM
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No drain holes in the bottom bracket shell. There are two bolts poking thru the shell at the bottom from the bottom bracket cable guide. Those were covered in grease. The frame is aluminum.

I guess I will be more careful in washing the bike as water could easily be directed into the holes in the chain stays near the cassette and travel down to the bottom bracket shell.
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