Crank install - help
#1
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Crank install - help
How much pressure is required to install the non drive side crank on a square tapered shaft. Both components are Shimano and both are new. Seems to be stuck half way on. Dot know whether to whack with mallet or try to get it off. My cheap puller broke trying to get it off.
#2
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How much pressure is required to install the non drive side crank on a square tapered shaft. Both components are Shimano and both are new. Seems to be stuck half way on. Dot know whether to whack with mallet or try to get it off. My cheap puller broke trying to get it off.
#4
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Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
The keying is the square taper. A 90* indexed one. Easy to tell when the arms are not "straight" with each other. As far as retaining bolt/nut tightness the common tapered square is around 30 ft/lbs of torque. New fittings want a second/third follow up tightening after a hundred+ miles of riding. Andy
#5
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You have a mismatch between the crank and spindle.
Though the tapers are the same, various brand spindles have different size starting points (the distance across the tip). So, changing the spindle to one that's smaller at the end, will mean that that end will be deeper ito the crank.
To answer your question, it's not a matter of force. Once a crank begins to tighten on the taper, it can only move about another millimeter or two. All the force in the world won't move it deeper, though if you try hard enough, you can split the crank apart.
Though the tapers are the same, various brand spindles have different size starting points (the distance across the tip). So, changing the spindle to one that's smaller at the end, will mean that that end will be deeper ito the crank.
To answer your question, it's not a matter of force. Once a crank begins to tighten on the taper, it can only move about another millimeter or two. All the force in the world won't move it deeper, though if you try hard enough, you can split the crank apart.
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FB
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#7
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To further elaborate on FBinNN reply. Not all square taper crank and bottom bracket (BB) combinations are compatible. Although nearly all spindles use a 2 degree taper (to match a 2 degree taper in the crankarm), there are two competing standards, defined by the measurement across the flat at the end of the spindle. The JIS size is used by Shimano and most other Asian manufacturers. The ISO size is primarily used by Campagnolo and other European manufacturers.
So yes, make sure your BB is compatible with your crankset.
So yes, make sure your BB is compatible with your crankset.
#8
Sure sounds like an ISO crank on a JIS spindle, but he OP said that both components are new Shimano. One would assume compatibility. I seem to recall that some of the Japanese NJS track stuff was ISO, though.
Can you provide part numbers?
Can you provide part numbers?
#9
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Shimano UN55 Bottom Brackets
English 68 x 122.5mm
44899-104169 1
@
$18.99 $18.99
Shimano FC-M361 Acera Square Taper Crankset
175mm x 28/38/48t w/ Chain Guard (Black)
43123-100129 1
@
$45.00 $45.00
#10
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Yes that Should all go up get another puller. Pusher actually 3 bux on amazon Im about to install similar But bio pace ringed crank arms You might need 68 x 118 generally heating Should not be ness. assembly grease is our friend.







