I bought a cross wheelset on the cheap from a guy who was upfront about riding the rear wheel to oblivion on a broken spoke. I foolishly thought I would be able to correct it, but it doesn't look like that's going to be the case. the only way to save this wheel is to rebuild it, and I might as well get a new rim. the problem is the new rim is pretty much unavailable anywhere I look. they are "alex black dragon 32h" ... I just can't find them. So now, I'm thinking about buying a different rim that's the same inner diameter as these ones.

any suggestions?

btw. I tried the contact us on the alex rims website, and it doesn't appear to be functioning... what to do??

the website states that the rim is 24mm deep.

https://www.alexrims.com/products/black-dragon/

will i be ok if I just pick another 700c 32h rim that has a 24 mm depth?

Measure the ERD, or actual nipple seat diameter. Then you'll have a meaningful basis of comparisson.

Do you have previous experience truing wheels and building wheels? If not, then skip to the end, and perhaps verify your wheel is trued correctly before tearing it apart and rebuilding.

Are you currently riding the wheel?

If not, then disassemble now, and as FBinNY suggested measure it.

The way I do it is to measure the length of two nipples. Then put two spokes in on opposite sides of the rim, tie together with a rubber band, and measure from the bottom of the nipple to the bottom of the nipple, and add the lengths.

You can also lay the rim on a flat surface and verify that it is actually bent (although a hop might not be as easy to visualize).

You can also measure the length of your spokes and hub flanges. Note, the right and left are usually different lengths.

As to measuring ERD I strongly suggest doing it around the rim at least at 3 points. Both to average out any rim issues and your measuring skills.


A different rim of the same published profile might also have a thicker wall at the spoke hole section. One rim might have, or not, eyelets depending on the version of the same extrusion (OEM rims are often a cheaper version of the same rim blank that the up scale "over the counter" uses. Just delete the eyelets, thicken the spoke bed, pin instead of weld the seam).


Lastly before you take apart the wheel look at where in the nipple the spoke end is. Getting the spoke end to line up in the nipple's head is generally considered best, not all wheels have achieved this.


As always, one good measurement is worth a thousand assumptions. Andy.

+1. When you're building wheels you only have a millimeter or two tolerance in spoke length.

ok, I'll try the measurement method. after I measure the ERD, what's the most efficient way to source a rim based upon the ERD?

yes, I have experience buliding wheels, but I used a spoke length calculator

Serious recommendation. The wheel was abused and spokes are not expensive. Forget looking for a specific ERD and buy any rim that suits your needs and rebuild it using all new high quality double butted stainless spokes in the necessary length.

32 Sapim spokes and nipples for $12.80. Last time I ordered the freight was three bucks or so.

https://www.danscomp.com/products/43...ted_Spoke.html

The ERD spec is right there in the link, but I agree with [MENTION=362748]SquidPuppet[/MENTION] -- just start new with whatever rim you want and get a new set of spokes to match.

Wholesalers to bike shops have rims.. consult your LBS?

i called a local bike shop for help, and they might be able to get in contact with a distributor for these rims

I also found a potential candidate for replacement. slightly different ERD. Can I just take the difference in the ERD, and add that difference to the existing length of the spokes?

No. Use a spoke calculator, input measured data.

I think somewhere in all the advice is such that "if a wheel is thrashed or trashed such that the rim should be replaced, do so and then for goodness sake, use a new set of spokes to finish the job." I would only add to that a suggestion to just look for a new wheel or wheelset that is already built. Wheels tend to go on sale now and then such that a replacement wheel can be cheaper than parts to fix one... and a lot faster to complete. Second add is the suggestion to strive to always have a good set of spare wheels on hand...

Not really. It takes a little trigonometry to get the proper length. That's why most people use a spoke calculator.


Source: Sutherland's 4th Edition