Crankset and frame distance
#2
Mechanic/Tourist
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
Further away than what? What's important is that it be the same distance from the centerline of the bike as is your rear cog (chainline).
#3
If you're going to be using a fixed gear rear wheel, even some of the time, it's fairly important to get the chainline matched between the crank and the sprocket. The first thing to do is find out what the chainline is for the wheel. It's typically 42mm if the wheel was designed for fixed gear riding, but Paul hubs are different and even have a different chainline between their fixed and free sides. If you're using a freewheel in back (one that doesn't need to spin if you aren't pedaling), you have a little more flexibility (about 2mm off either way is OK) but it's still preferable to get things lined up.
Once you know the chainline of the sprocket, you need to figure out how to get your crank to match that. If you're using a square taper bottom bracket, you can generally adjust the chainline by getting a different length bottom bracket. Start by measuring what you have and then figure out if and what you need to change. Because newer bottom brackets are symmetric you have to double the change you want. For instance, to move the chainline in 2mm you need a bottom bracket that is 4mm shorter than what you have.
You can make a big change by deciding whether to put the chainring inside or outside the tabs on the crank. This usually is a 5mm move. You can move it out a millimeter or two with spacers.
This is probably more information than you can process right now, but I'm spilling it all here so you can refer back when you're ready for it. cny-bikeman gave you a link to the standard reference from Sheldon.
Also, be sure to leave a little slack in your chain. The more your chainline is off, the more important the slack is.
Once you know the chainline of the sprocket, you need to figure out how to get your crank to match that. If you're using a square taper bottom bracket, you can generally adjust the chainline by getting a different length bottom bracket. Start by measuring what you have and then figure out if and what you need to change. Because newer bottom brackets are symmetric you have to double the change you want. For instance, to move the chainline in 2mm you need a bottom bracket that is 4mm shorter than what you have.
You can make a big change by deciding whether to put the chainring inside or outside the tabs on the crank. This usually is a 5mm move. You can move it out a millimeter or two with spacers.
This is probably more information than you can process right now, but I'm spilling it all here so you can refer back when you're ready for it. cny-bikeman gave you a link to the standard reference from Sheldon.
Also, be sure to leave a little slack in your chain. The more your chainline is off, the more important the slack is.
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#4
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Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 99
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Thank you for your help. I installed the new crank today and the chainline matched the rear cog. Now, about the crank arm on the left side (non drive side). I noticed that it's not as deeply inserted as the right side, although both sides are at the same length with the frame. Are both sides supposed to be the same distance? Also, how much friction should there be when you spin the crank? Should you grease or lube the inside the BB cup? I only greased the threads.
Last edited by Ride_Fast; 12-24-17 at 02:52 AM.
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Invictus35
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