A DIY bicycle fitting will be likely be sufficient for anything but high performance riding. Follow several of the links to get different perspectives. I haven't screened enough of them to point you more specifically, especially as I can find no info from you as to whether you are riding downturn or upright bars. The former requires more attention to variables such as adjusting saddle fore-aft, distance to bars, bar width and shape. As to seat fore-aft you may find this interesting: https://www.google.com/search?q=knee...l+axle&ie=&oe= In addition to proper fitting and bent arms, hand numbness can be greatly decreased by padded grips or tape and especially by good gloves.

p.s. Some things often not noted: Saddle height can vary depending on one's foot position when pedaling. I pedal with my foot more level than most, so take a slightly lower saddle position than average. I also pedal with a flat back and am pretty flexible, which allows me a longer reach to the bars than someone who has a curved back. When I purchased my current bike I changed the saddle, pedals, stem and bars, all to customize the bike to my body and riding style. I'm especially happy with the bars (Ritchey Pro BioMax).

Do all your fingers go numb, or just one side of the hand? Different nerves can be affected, each controls part of the fingers.

------Fit----------
Bar position problems?
Are you too stretched out? When riding on the hoods, do your hands sit comfortably on the hoods, or are you wanting to slide back to the "corners" of the bars? Or even need to ride on the tops, closer to the stem?

Do you just use the drops for very short periods, and only if really necessary?

Are your elbows locked, so that your arms and hands are supporting your upper body, or is there a slight bend in your elbow?

Do you feel like you are sliding forward on the saddle?

~~~

I have my shallow drop bars set so that the hoods are comfortable, and the drops are, too. Drops are great in any headwind, on downhills for control, and on rough roads for spreading out the vibration forces. And it's helpful for my shoulders.

Fitting sessions
Years ago, I had one of the fittings that measured every angle, and used a fully adjustable stationary fitting bike. It was useful.

Later, before buying my new bike, I had another fitting. He put my current bike on a trainer on a turntable, and mostly went by eye as I pedaled. No digitized video, just experience.

This worked great. We made a few minor adjustments that helped. I already had years of regular riding, so I knew I wasn't too far off before the fitting.

Well shoot. The largest frame I have is a 61. My crotch just touches the TT. Once I am on the bike it feel fine. My saddle is not slammed to the lug either. My opinion is more aligned with [MENTION=392454]CliffordK[/MENTION] on this one. I am perplexed how this bike would be labeled as too big for me when this is how it is set up.
[IMG]2010 Langster Steel 61cm, on Flickr[/IMG]

If it works for you then it's not too big. For most people a bike that one can barely stand over will have too long a top tube or place the saddle too far back, especially if it has a more relaxed seat tube angle.

when I'm on my bike the seat is as low as it will go down to the top of the top tube,,, the reach feels longer than my 54cm bike and not sure what my reach SHOULD be but definitely notice its longer.

I decided to move away from it just to be safe and put it up on the local CL for cheap and if it don't sell i'm looking for a 53/54 frame set everything will fit on just to keep a spare bike around or a bike I can leave at work.

Probably a wise decision.

When I first rode my Pinarello bought used, I felt very stretched out. Now I don't mind but would like it about 10 mm shorter. The point being that often you adapt to what you have.