I really need help finding the correct replacement fork for my Specialized Hardrock Sport, sn P7CAD8337, fork. I think my bike is around a 2007, has V brakes and I believe an RST fork. I can’t find the specs I need to replace the fork. I don’t want anything special just a good replacement to get it back on the trails.

Can someone help me with the proper replacement?

Forks are somewhat universal, so you don't need to buy another RST.

The key elements are wheel size, ie. 26" brake type, ie/ V or disc, and the diameter and length of the steerer tube.

So, start by confirming the steerer (top of the fork) diameter, which is probably 1-1/8". You can measure the ID of the stem, and don't have to be precise, since it's either 1", 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" (rare).

Then the length of the tube is critical, though most new forks are sold very long and cut to size by the owner. So, a fork for 26" mtn wheels, set up for V-brakes and the right steerer and you're good to go.

Serial numbers are far less useful than you seem to think.
And if you can’t figure out the spec despite having access to the bike, I don’t think having you replace the fork is such a hot idea.
You need to know how to transfer/install the crown race, how to size and cut a steerer tube, how to install a star nut, how to adjust headset preload.
Also, the hardrock being quite inexpensive to start with, a brand new shock is likely to cost more than the remaining value of the bike.
And buying used forks can be tricky.
It has an 1 1/8” threadless steerer. A search on the fork’s model name/number should give you the travel. Failing that, measure axle-to-crown.
You need to match:
- steerer diameter, for buying used - remaining steerer length
- for rim brakes, intended wheel size
- travel/axle-to-crown
I’d look at the Suntour line-up. Might be something rim braked there.

Thanks guys! I failed to say that I’m about 200 miles from this bike. It’s a bike my son took off to school and now I’m going to bring it back home as he goes off to work.

So I looked at it and the forks are frozen and trashed. I’m not going to spend a bunch of money on a new fork, I would just like to find a good used one or cheaper new one but I need to know the particulars. I’m just going to use it to kick around.

So dabac you say that this bike has a “It has an 1 1/8” threadless steerer.” That’s the kind of info I need, any idea on steerer length? I know it’s a 26 inch. The mechanics of doing it is pretty simple, i’d just like to find and order one so I have it when I get back to the bike.

Please correct me if I’m wrong but it seems like all I need is to get a 26”, travel (I don’t care much), 1 1/8” treadless steerer, V brake? That’s about all I should need to know right? Right now I’m just looking on ebay and the like. Any suggestions of a better place to search?

Rigid forks are cheaper.


Steerer length is dependent on the frame size - head tube length of the frame - and how many spacers you want to use below the stem.
I Can't Tell From Here.


That is not a useful reference for determining head tube length or the preferred amount of spacers.





Try doing a search on "star nut install", "short steerer tube", "crown race install/removal" and you'll see there are plenty of ways to get it wrong.





Changing the travel WILL change how the bike rides. And to some degree, the loads on fork and frame.
While a "blind" change generally will still result in a rideable bike, no one can guarantee (that you'll like) the results.




If buying used - remaining steerer tube length. Condition of fork. Rebuild options of fork.





Bike kitchen, bike co-op.

As dabac noted, rigid forks are cheaper. Older bike shops or a Bike Co-op should have a collection of rigid forks that were take offs from back in the day when rigid MTB owners "upgraded" to suspension forks or from otherwise damaged bikes. Sort through them and find something suitable by matching steerer diameter, adequate steerer length, matching original wheel size and a reasonable approximation to the axle-to-crown length. As he further noted it sounds like you need more experienced help with this project as fork swaps aren't completely straightforward.

You can read about the threaded vs. threadless headsets here: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html

Assuming that the old and the new forks are both threadless, you will need to move the crown race from the old one to the new one and install some star nut into the new fork.

May, as mentioned above, not really need a suspension fork at all, then you can get a long bladed (suspension corrected)rigid fork & be done with it..

cheap forks wear out, lack things like lockout, Making it act like a rigid fork .. good forks are expensive..

Thanks for all the input everyone! I just bought this. Any reason to beleive this won’t work?
https://www.bikeforums.net/attachmen...1&d=1518228329

Mechanically looks OK, assuming you had a 1 1/8" threadless fork. See post #5 for a note regarding travel.
Ironically, I had a 2000 Hardrock Sport which I converted from threaded to threadless for the sake of installing a rigid fork. Here is my thread: fork replacement, need help

I am also assuming it’s a 1 1/8 inch as that is what dabac quoted me. As I stated earlier, I don’t really care about the travel that much. I will be riding off-road so I do want some shock absorption but I’m not going to be pushing this thing hard down some technical down hills. So travel just isn’t that critical.

That should probably be fine. There's a chance your original fork was 80mm, which would be a fairly significant change in the handling of the bike if that was so, and would put more stress on the frame. You will need to reasonably accurately cut the steerer so that it is 2mm shorter than the top of the stem or top spacer (if you have spacers above the stem), then install the star nut evenly so that you can preload the headset appropriately. You will also need to move the crown race which is press fit onto the old fork onto the new. You may want to have a shop do the fork install, as it's faster and more consistent with dedicated tooling, and most shops don't charge particularly much for this particular service.

Depending on your weight, you might need a different coil spring in the fork to suit your weight range.

Page 12 shows the different springs:
https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign....lish_rev_d.pdf

Part numbers are in the Spare Parts Catalog:
https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...._spc_rev_b.pdf

The service manual shows coil spring removal and installation:
https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...._c_english.pdf

This could be really helpful Cobba! Thank you!