Loud drivetrain?
#1
Loud drivetrain?
Most of the noise is coming from the cassette/rear derailleur area. The chain is visibly clicking on the lowest cog. I've adjusted everything; limit screws, barrel adjuster, b-screw, etc, so everything is lined up correctly. I've taken the jockey wheels off, cleaned them, put them back on. Still noisy. The bike is brand new, so the cogs and chain shouldn't be worn. On the other end, when pedaling hard on the workstand, the crank makes a deep vibration and the chain shakes between the cassette and the big chainring. I haven't had an opportunity to actually ride the bike yet because of the weather, so I'm not sure how it actually sounds on the road. At this point I've pretty much given up, and I plan on taking it to my LBS. Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
#2
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Joined: Oct 2015
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From: San Diego, California
Bikes: Velo Orange Piolet
Are you sure the chain is threaded around the rear derailleur jockey wheels correctly? There's a little tab that the chain must go on the inside of, and I once put it on the outside of that tab, and everything worked and shifted, but it rubbed on the tab and was noisy.
#3
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Joined: May 2011
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From: Upstate NY
Bikes: Bianchi San Mateo and a few others
Chain routing through the rear derailleur pulleys, like tyrion described, is my first suspicion. I think there's a pretty good chance that's the problem. If not, we need to question the assertion that "everything is lined up correctly" and go through the process of setting up drivetrain adjustments from scratch.
#4
Chain routing through the rear derailleur pulleys, like tyrion described, is my first suspicion. I think there's a pretty good chance that's the problem. If not, we need to question the assertion that "everything is lined up correctly" and go through the process of setting up drivetrain adjustments from scratch.
#5
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Turn the crank slowly backwards and watch as the chain comes off of the lower rear derailleur pulley. If there is a tight or damaged link you will see it as it will not straighten out properly as it leave the pulley.
#6
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
Take it to the bike shop seems a good idea, better than long distance guesses.
#7
Checked all the links, they're clean and move properly.
#8
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
The test of the pudding is in the eating.
I wouldn't get too worried until I had chance to take the bike for a good ride. If it still makes enough noise to bother you, that's the time to take it back to the shop where you bought it.
I wouldn't get too worried until I had chance to take the bike for a good ride. If it still makes enough noise to bother you, that's the time to take it back to the shop where you bought it.
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#9
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From: A Dutchman in Budapest, Hungary.
Bikes: Koga Miyata GranTourer 1985, Koga Miyata Adventure 1992, Cinelli Sentiero, Giant Terrago 1993, Presto Amsterdam 1975(?), Dahon Classic III Stainless
Does this happen in all gears, or only on the lowest (largest) cog?
You are sure the chain is brand new?
You are sure the chain is brand new?
#10
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Joined: May 2011
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From: Upstate NY
Bikes: Bianchi San Mateo and a few others
I don't mean to be insulting, but eyeballing jockey-to-cog alignment isn't how you're adjusting the derailleur, is it?
Might I suggest Park Tool's rear derailleur adjustment procedure? Follow the process from A to Z, without skipping, and it'll get you shifting well more often than not.
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...eur-adjustment
Might I suggest Park Tool's rear derailleur adjustment procedure? Follow the process from A to Z, without skipping, and it'll get you shifting well more often than not.
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...eur-adjustment
#11
I don't mean to be insulting, but eyeballing jockey-to-cog alignment isn't how you're adjusting the derailleur, is it?
Might I suggest Park Tool's rear derailleur adjustment procedure? Follow the process from A to Z, without skipping, and it'll get you shifting well more often than not.
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...eur-adjustment
Might I suggest Park Tool's rear derailleur adjustment procedure? Follow the process from A to Z, without skipping, and it'll get you shifting well more often than not.
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...eur-adjustment
#13
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
I suspect that the key clue here is the vibration in the upper chord when on the smallest sprocket
(exclusively?).
I read that as indicating an engagement/disengagement issue, possibly caused by the rollers touching the corners of the next tooth as they swing clear. This really isn't all that rare on brand new drivetrains, because the smaller sprocket makes this a critical tolerance zone.
The good news is that the least amount of wear (hours, not days) will break down the corners, and also increase free play at the rollers, either of which solves the problem.
Other factors may include chain line and/or burrs on the sprocket teeth.
In any case don't obsess over this yet. Ride the bike long enough to break in the drivetrains and see if it resolves, before wasting time over what may be nothing.
(exclusively?).
I read that as indicating an engagement/disengagement issue, possibly caused by the rollers touching the corners of the next tooth as they swing clear. This really isn't all that rare on brand new drivetrains, because the smaller sprocket makes this a critical tolerance zone.
The good news is that the least amount of wear (hours, not days) will break down the corners, and also increase free play at the rollers, either of which solves the problem.
Other factors may include chain line and/or burrs on the sprocket teeth.
In any case don't obsess over this yet. Ride the bike long enough to break in the drivetrains and see if it resolves, before wasting time over what may be nothing.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#15
Managed to figure out the clicking, so now it's the just plastic-y sounding jockey wheels and vibrating crank that are bothering me. But, from what I've read about new bikes, after a few miles those sounds should settle down. Just gotta break in the drivetrain a bit, I hope. Thanks for tolerating my inexperience everyone.
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