Getting max drive train efficiency
#1
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 732
Likes: 3
From: Providence
Bikes: Specialized tarmac sl2 giant tcx zero
Getting max drive train efficiency
Hi
I ride alot and im constantly cleaning and lubing drive train . i read about a lot of different products and tips but i still just have 10 $ bottle of all weather lube , lots of brushes and rags . i get my drive train clean but it gets dirty feels slow . can a person give me their routine for longer drive train max effeciency if possible thanks ...????!!!!!
I ride alot and im constantly cleaning and lubing drive train . i read about a lot of different products and tips but i still just have 10 $ bottle of all weather lube , lots of brushes and rags . i get my drive train clean but it gets dirty feels slow . can a person give me their routine for longer drive train max effeciency if possible thanks ...????!!!!!
#2
If it feels "slow" when it gets dirty, you're probably putting on too much lube and it's collecting dirt. Clean it, lube with a dot of oil on each link, and wipe off the excess. Wipe the chain down after every ride but don't apply more lube.
If you do a little research, you'll find that improving drivetrain efficiency has little to do with overall speed. Sure, the bike will feel, sound, and shift better, but a 10% improvement in drivetrain efficiency will only make you a tiny bit faster. Have a look at the graphs in this article: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/aero/formulas.htm
If you do a little research, you'll find that improving drivetrain efficiency has little to do with overall speed. Sure, the bike will feel, sound, and shift better, but a 10% improvement in drivetrain efficiency will only make you a tiny bit faster. Have a look at the graphs in this article: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/aero/formulas.htm
__________________
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 57
From: Chicago
Bikes: Marin Four Corners, 1960's Schwinn Racer in middle of restoration, mid 70s Motobecane Grand Touring, various other heaps.
I think you have 2 realistic options.
1) Use a lighter weight oil. Oils labeled for 'wet' tend to be much heavier, and pick up more nastiness. Ones labeled for dry conditions tend to be much lighter weight, and won't become quite so nasty. But they will still be nasty eventually...which leads to the second option..
2) Wax your chain. This eliminates even the memory of icky chains, though it requires a dedicated crock pot, and you've got to completely degrease even a new chain (once) before attempting to wax. It doesn't work all that great in the rain..but in fairly dry weather, it works great. I've started doing it in the summer here; eliminates black marks on all my pants
1) Use a lighter weight oil. Oils labeled for 'wet' tend to be much heavier, and pick up more nastiness. Ones labeled for dry conditions tend to be much lighter weight, and won't become quite so nasty. But they will still be nasty eventually...which leads to the second option..
2) Wax your chain. This eliminates even the memory of icky chains, though it requires a dedicated crock pot, and you've got to completely degrease even a new chain (once) before attempting to wax. It doesn't work all that great in the rain..but in fairly dry weather, it works great. I've started doing it in the summer here; eliminates black marks on all my pants
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 6,660
Likes: 177
#6
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 649
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
"Feels" slower or are you measuring it some way?
Realistically, once you reach around 15 mph air drag surpasses everything else that's holding you back combined. As you speed upward from 15 mph, that percentage continues to increase. I don't doubt that a decently maintained drivetrain will have a benefit but, if your objective is to ride faster, your effort will always be better spent by improving your aerodynamic positioning on your bike.
Realistically, once you reach around 15 mph air drag surpasses everything else that's holding you back combined. As you speed upward from 15 mph, that percentage continues to increase. I don't doubt that a decently maintained drivetrain will have a benefit but, if your objective is to ride faster, your effort will always be better spent by improving your aerodynamic positioning on your bike.
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
#8
Me duelen las nalgas

Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 13,519
Likes: 2,832
From: Texas
Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel
Wax. It's just a different process.
My main incentive was to minimize getting chain gunk on stuff. My bikes are stored indoors. I was getting chain gunk of my pants, legs, cats, anything I brushed against. With waxed chains I just wipe 'em down with a leftover paper napkin, whatever's handy. The residue is about like graphite powder from a pencil sharpener.
But it turns out the friction is low too. Depends on the type of wax treatment.
To keep it simple I used plain Gulf paraffin/wax, melted in a Little Dipper crock pot I had in the cupboard and never used. Used that for about 8 months now. No complaints. Lasts 2-4 weeks between treatments, depending on how much I ride and conditions -- whether it rains or I ride through puddles.
I used a thinner application of paraffin at the beginning of this month and wiped off the excess with a rag dampened with mineral spirits. The drivetrain had the least friction I've experienced with my 1980s road bike. But wiping off all the excess also reduced the time between wax treatments -- on Saturday's ride I could hear some chain noise about halfway through. So I got about 260 miles so far from that treatment. Before I was getting about 400-500 miles, but with more subjectively felt drag. It's a trade off.
There are also some drip/drizzle-on dry lubes. Probably easier if you don't already have a spare crock pot or double boiler.
My main incentive was to minimize getting chain gunk on stuff. My bikes are stored indoors. I was getting chain gunk of my pants, legs, cats, anything I brushed against. With waxed chains I just wipe 'em down with a leftover paper napkin, whatever's handy. The residue is about like graphite powder from a pencil sharpener.
But it turns out the friction is low too. Depends on the type of wax treatment.
To keep it simple I used plain Gulf paraffin/wax, melted in a Little Dipper crock pot I had in the cupboard and never used. Used that for about 8 months now. No complaints. Lasts 2-4 weeks between treatments, depending on how much I ride and conditions -- whether it rains or I ride through puddles.
I used a thinner application of paraffin at the beginning of this month and wiped off the excess with a rag dampened with mineral spirits. The drivetrain had the least friction I've experienced with my 1980s road bike. But wiping off all the excess also reduced the time between wax treatments -- on Saturday's ride I could hear some chain noise about halfway through. So I got about 260 miles so far from that treatment. Before I was getting about 400-500 miles, but with more subjectively felt drag. It's a trade off.
There are also some drip/drizzle-on dry lubes. Probably easier if you don't already have a spare crock pot or double boiler.
#9
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 732
Likes: 3
From: Providence
Bikes: Specialized tarmac sl2 giant tcx zero
So i have seen the waxing process , so i would have to invest in a system , my question with waxing is how well does it hold up in winter , i ride every day rain, snow are factors, road dirt much and water are always on my bike i usually light clean my bike once a week wiping down the pullys chain rings with wd40 and some orange soap stuff wash it off and them lube with the green stuff , i used to use a silicone oil from wal mart i might go back to it in the nice days of summer but in new england the weather is all kinds we get everything i dont know how a wax chain will hold up ..??
#10
Full Member
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 390
Likes: 81
From: Switzerland
Bikes: 1957 Alpa Special, 1963 Condor Delta, 1967 Tigra Sprint, 1977 Oltenia, 1987 Mondia, 1965 Staco de luxe, 1969 Amberg
I wax and ride on snow, ice or on wet and salted roads all winter. I wipe down my bike and chain with a dry rag after every ride. Chain gets new wax every 500km. Works fine for me. Need to mention that i ride a sa 3 speed hub with a 1/8‘ chain.
#11
"Feels" slower or are you measuring it some way?
Realistically, once you reach around 15 mph air drag surpasses everything else that's holding you back combined. As you speed upward from 15 mph, that percentage continues to increase. I don't doubt that a decently maintained drivetrain will have a benefit but, if your objective is to ride faster, your effort will always be better spent by improving your aerodynamic positioning on your bike.
Realistically, once you reach around 15 mph air drag surpasses everything else that's holding you back combined. As you speed upward from 15 mph, that percentage continues to increase. I don't doubt that a decently maintained drivetrain will have a benefit but, if your objective is to ride faster, your effort will always be better spent by improving your aerodynamic positioning on your bike.
It's just a perception, re: "constantly cleaning and lubing." Recommendation to the OP: feel less and ride more.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
johngwheeler
Bicycle Mechanics
29
08-30-17 08:13 AM







