Master Link On The Road Without Tool
#26
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That's a good question.
#27
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Yup, the master link needs to be on the top run of chain for the pedal to exert enough pressure to snap it shut.
Also be sure it's the right size Missing Link for the chain. KMC makes two sizes -- 7.1mm and 7.3mm -- very slightly different, but they aren't interchangeable. (Can't check other details right now because KMC's website appears to have been hijacked. Again. Probably a temporary thing over the Memorial Day holiday weekend. Seems like some unsecured websites get hijacked often by spammers and scammers.)
FWIW I just use pliers or heavy duty surgical clamps to open Missing Links at home. I carry a spare on the road but don't carry a tool. I figure if I need the replacement Missing Link the old one has already popped open and gotten lost, so I don't need the tool. But after a Missing Link has been reused a few times it opens fairly easily without a special tool. And the Missing Link seems to hang on pretty securely even when I drop the chain. So far I haven't lost one.
And I wax my chains so I can handle them on with bare hands. Very clean, very little mess -- about like pencil graphite. Boeshield T-9 is pretty clean too, just needs to be applied more often.
Also be sure it's the right size Missing Link for the chain. KMC makes two sizes -- 7.1mm and 7.3mm -- very slightly different, but they aren't interchangeable. (Can't check other details right now because KMC's website appears to have been hijacked. Again. Probably a temporary thing over the Memorial Day holiday weekend. Seems like some unsecured websites get hijacked often by spammers and scammers.)
FWIW I just use pliers or heavy duty surgical clamps to open Missing Links at home. I carry a spare on the road but don't carry a tool. I figure if I need the replacement Missing Link the old one has already popped open and gotten lost, so I don't need the tool. But after a Missing Link has been reused a few times it opens fairly easily without a special tool. And the Missing Link seems to hang on pretty securely even when I drop the chain. So far I haven't lost one.
And I wax my chains so I can handle them on with bare hands. Very clean, very little mess -- about like pencil graphite. Boeshield T-9 is pretty clean too, just needs to be applied more often.
#28
This is what a broken chain is likely to look like:
I usually carry a tiny pliers, but you should be able to pop one of those bent plates off the other rivet by twisting or prying with the other end of the chain, one or two allen wrenches, etc. Once the plate comes off the rivet and other plate just fall out. Now you can insert your masterlink.

I usually carry a tiny pliers, but you should be able to pop one of those bent plates off the other rivet by twisting or prying with the other end of the chain, one or two allen wrenches, etc. Once the plate comes off the rivet and other plate just fall out. Now you can insert your masterlink.
#31
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#32
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The crankbros M19 is probably the best multi-tool on the market. The chain tool is very easy to use and works very well. I've used mine to rejoin a chain after quick-link failure 4 times in the past 3 years. Most recently this last Sunday when my quick-link separated during a shift and I could only find half.
That bell tool also has a weird spoke nipple/gauge right where you will be putting the most force with your hand when twisting to push out a rivet so it will be very uncomfortable.
That bell tool also has a weird spoke nipple/gauge right where you will be putting the most force with your hand when twisting to push out a rivet so it will be very uncomfortable.
#33
The crankbros M19 is probably the best multi-tool on the market. The chain tool is very easy to use and works very well. I've used mine to rejoin a chain after quick-link failure 4 times in the past 3 years. Most recently this last Sunday when my quick-link separated during a shift and I could only find half.
That bell tool also has a weird spoke nipple/gauge right where you will be putting the most force with your hand when twisting to push out a rivet so it will be very uncomfortable.
That bell tool also has a weird spoke nipple/gauge right where you will be putting the most force with your hand when twisting to push out a rivet so it will be very uncomfortable.
Some kind of record...
#34
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The crankbros M19 is probably the best multi-tool on the market. The chain tool is very easy to use and works very well. I've used mine to rejoin a chain after quick-link failure 4 times in the past 3 years. Most recently this last Sunday when my quick-link separated during a shift and I could only find half.
That bell tool also has a weird spoke nipple/gauge right where you will be putting the most force with your hand when twisting to push out a rivet so it will be very uncomfortable.
That bell tool also has a weird spoke nipple/gauge right where you will be putting the most force with your hand when twisting to push out a rivet so it will be very uncomfortable.
#36
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Awesome. I also noticed it also has the torx drivers for the disc brake rotors. It's a pricey little unit, some multi tools are going on ebay for like $3. But obviously they don't have the things this one does. I'll bookmark it, sounds like it might be worth saving for.
#37
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If you need to remove a master link at the side of the road, you just need a rock. Pull the master link into a pyramid on the chainring, so that one side of the pyramid is the master link. Hit the top of the pyramid with the rock, and the master link will come apart. You can tighten it using pressure on the pedal while the master link is in the top run of chain, as mentioned earlier. Pay zero attention to the idiot that tries to do that using the bottom run of chain.
You could paint the rock park tool blue and use one side for 7-8-9 speed chains, and the other side for 10-11 speed chains if you want.
You could paint the rock park tool blue and use one side for 7-8-9 speed chains, and the other side for 10-11 speed chains if you want.
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#38
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I've used a traditional paperclip to hold the chain sections upright, enough to allow for easier installation of the KL. The same paperclip also serves as a nice retainer of the KL when stowed on the bike in a panner. Don't use a cheap flimsy paperclip.
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#39
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If you need to remove a master link at the side of the road, you just need a rock. Pull the master link into a pyramid on the chainring, so that one side of the pyramid is the master link. Hit the top of the pyramid with the rock, and the master link will come apart. You can tighten it using pressure on the pedal while the master link is in the top run of chain, as mentioned earlier. Pay zero attention to the idiot that tries to do that using the bottom run of chain.
You could paint the rock park tool blue and use one side for 7-8-9 speed chains, and the other side for 10-11 speed chains if you want.
You could paint the rock park tool blue and use one side for 7-8-9 speed chains, and the other side for 10-11 speed chains if you want.

#41
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I know we all have a couple of zip ties in our bags to hold slack in the chain. carry about a foot of old shift cable too. wrap it around the link rollers, make left go right and right go left, and tug. sound confusing?
then watch this:
Chain question...
then watch this:
Chain question...
#42
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Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
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Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#43
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I know we all have a couple of zip ties in our bags to hold slack in the chain. carry about a foot of old shift cable too. wrap it around the link rollers, make left go right and right go left, and tug. sound confusing?
then watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5UHYTz6eXs
Chain question...
then watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5UHYTz6eXs
Chain question...
#44
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Those kinds of tools aren't nearly as awesome as you might think. They tend to be bulky and difficult to use. Look into the Fix-it-Sticks kits. Yes, they are more expensive but they do the job better.
I've never broken a chain yet (breaker is in the mail), but judging from how hard it looks to use the slightly bigger ones with smaller handle, I could imagine the multi-tool breaker could be quite difficult. But it's an emergency measure isn't it, as long as it's still usable for that infrequent occasion...
Last edited by MrRider; 05-30-18 at 08:57 AM.
#45
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Fix-it sticks are great if you like a lot of little parts to lose, have too much money and are interested in cobbling together the tool every time you want to use it.
Folding multitools work great, not as well as a full-size tool obviously but much better than something that requires bits and shoving one end into the other to get leverage. I used a Crankbros M19 for 2 years as my only bike tool and it was fine. I'm not sure how something the size of a pack of cards can be considered bulky? Regardless, make sure you buy something of quality. Those $3 multi-tools often have undersized drivers and tend to have shorter lives. A good tool should only set you back $20 or so.
The chain tool on the M19 is only slightly harder than using a full size tool, I've gotten good feedback from smaller riders that it works ok for them. Due to the design it's also possible to brace the tool and use additional leverage to push the pin if needed.
Folding multitools work great, not as well as a full-size tool obviously but much better than something that requires bits and shoving one end into the other to get leverage. I used a Crankbros M19 for 2 years as my only bike tool and it was fine. I'm not sure how something the size of a pack of cards can be considered bulky? Regardless, make sure you buy something of quality. Those $3 multi-tools often have undersized drivers and tend to have shorter lives. A good tool should only set you back $20 or so.
The chain tool on the M19 is only slightly harder than using a full size tool, I've gotten good feedback from smaller riders that it works ok for them. Due to the design it's also possible to brace the tool and use additional leverage to push the pin if needed.
#46
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Fix-it sticks are great if you like a lot of little parts to lose, have too much money and are interested in cobbling together the tool every time you want to use it.
Folding multitools work great, not as well as a full-size tool obviously but much better than something that requires bits and shoving one end into the other to get leverage. I used a Crankbros M19 for 2 years as my only bike tool and it was fine. I'm not sure how something the size of a pack of cards can be considered bulky? Regardless, make sure you buy something of quality. Those $3 multi-tools often have undersized drivers and tend to have shorter lives. A good tool should only set you back $20 or so.
The chain tool on the M19 is only slightly harder than using a full size tool, I've gotten good feedback from smaller riders that it works ok for them. Due to the design it's also possible to brace the tool and use additional leverage to push the pin if needed.
Folding multitools work great, not as well as a full-size tool obviously but much better than something that requires bits and shoving one end into the other to get leverage. I used a Crankbros M19 for 2 years as my only bike tool and it was fine. I'm not sure how something the size of a pack of cards can be considered bulky? Regardless, make sure you buy something of quality. Those $3 multi-tools often have undersized drivers and tend to have shorter lives. A good tool should only set you back $20 or so.
The chain tool on the M19 is only slightly harder than using a full size tool, I've gotten good feedback from smaller riders that it works ok for them. Due to the design it's also possible to brace the tool and use additional leverage to push the pin if needed.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Crankbrothers-Multi-Tool-Gold-M19-Crank-Brothers-Multitool/222515130802?epid=1104960766&hash=item33ceef71b2:g:nz8AAOSwC~1a8SQH:sc:AU_StandardDelivery!2298!AU!-1
Last edited by MrRider; 05-30-18 at 09:46 AM.
#48
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Ah you live in Australia, in the US the M19 is around $20.
Just looking at the Fix-It site the basic tool plus chain breaker is $49. Is it cheaper in Australia? Keep in mind it's not directly comparable as the Fix-It doesn't include the same tools as the M19 and is missing some drivers and the spoke wrenches.
Anyway, good luck with your choice.
Just looking at the Fix-It site the basic tool plus chain breaker is $49. Is it cheaper in Australia? Keep in mind it's not directly comparable as the Fix-It doesn't include the same tools as the M19 and is missing some drivers and the spoke wrenches.
Anyway, good luck with your choice.
Last edited by Spoonrobot; 05-30-18 at 09:59 AM.
#49
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That fix it stick kit really is pretty cool, but won't you also need the spoke tool and chain breaker? Especially if doing some bikepacking.
I've never broken a chain yet (breaker is in the mail), but judging from how hard it looks to use the slightly bigger ones with smaller handle, I could imagine the multi-tool breaker could be quite difficult. But it's an emergency measure isn't it, as long as it's still usable for that infrequent occasion...
I've never broken a chain yet (breaker is in the mail), but judging from how hard it looks to use the slightly bigger ones with smaller handle, I could imagine the multi-tool breaker could be quite difficult. But it's an emergency measure isn't it, as long as it's still usable for that infrequent occasion...
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Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#50
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 29,149
Likes: 6,206
From: Denver, CO
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Fix-it sticks are great if you like a lot of little parts to lose, have too much money and are interested in cobbling together the tool every time you want to use it.
Folding multitools work great, not as well as a full-size tool obviously but much better than something that requires bits and shoving one end into the other to get leverage. I used a Crankbros M19 for 2 years as my only bike tool and it was fine. I'm not sure how something the size of a pack of cards can be considered bulky? Regardless, make sure you buy something of quality. Those $3 multi-tools often have undersized drivers and tend to have shorter lives. A good tool should only set you back $20 or so.
The chain tool on the M19 is only slightly harder than using a full size tool, I've gotten good feedback from smaller riders that it works ok for them. Due to the design it's also possible to brace the tool and use additional leverage to push the pin if needed.
Folding multitools work great, not as well as a full-size tool obviously but much better than something that requires bits and shoving one end into the other to get leverage. I used a Crankbros M19 for 2 years as my only bike tool and it was fine. I'm not sure how something the size of a pack of cards can be considered bulky? Regardless, make sure you buy something of quality. Those $3 multi-tools often have undersized drivers and tend to have shorter lives. A good tool should only set you back $20 or so.
The chain tool on the M19 is only slightly harder than using a full size tool, I've gotten good feedback from smaller riders that it works ok for them. Due to the design it's also possible to brace the tool and use additional leverage to push the pin if needed.
Yes, Fix-it Sticks have removable parts but they also have fairly powerful magnets that keep the bits from falling off. Additionally, the bits are replaceable so if you bugger one...a definite possibility with a short handled tool...you can replace them. Finally, there is the ability to reach deeper into spaces with the Fixit due to it's longer handle in addition to being able to apply more torque because of the T-handle configuration.
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Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!




