Master Link On The Road Without Tool
#1
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Master Link On The Road Without Tool
I've been hearing how people are carrying a master (quick) link in their saddle bag in the event of some kind of chain failure. How are they installing the master link on the road without the installation tool, which I'm assuming is not carried on rides with the master link? Or is it? Seems a bit big to carry around.
#2
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
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installation is tool free *, removal is where a tool is useful
[but there are hacks for that]
and bring a chain tool to remove what remains of your damaged chain outer link (a multitool with one perhaps?)
* you set the Quick link by it being on top part of the chain,loop..
and the pedal is what you use to pull on your chain.
,,,
[but there are hacks for that]
and bring a chain tool to remove what remains of your damaged chain outer link (a multitool with one perhaps?)
* you set the Quick link by it being on top part of the chain,loop..
and the pedal is what you use to pull on your chain.
,,,
Last edited by fietsbob; 05-28-18 at 03:09 PM.
#3
I would think it would be rare to need to split a quick link on the road.
I haven't been carrying one, expecting to reuse pins. And, fortunately I've broken a few 9s and lesser chains, but so far never broken a 11s chain.
I'm changing brands to a brand that uses quick links, and may start carrying one.
I haven't been carrying one, expecting to reuse pins. And, fortunately I've broken a few 9s and lesser chains, but so far never broken a 11s chain.
I'm changing brands to a brand that uses quick links, and may start carrying one.
#4
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
As fietsbob noted, you don't need tools to install one. You align the halves on the top run of the chain and step on a pedal. The resulting tension snaps the link closed.
#5
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installation is tool free *, removal is where a tool is useful
[but there are hacks for that]
and bring a chain tool to remove what remains of your damaged chain outer link (a multitool with one perhaps?)
* you set the Quick link by it being on top part of the chain,loop..
and the pedal is what you use to pull on your chain.
,,,
[but there are hacks for that]
and bring a chain tool to remove what remains of your damaged chain outer link (a multitool with one perhaps?)
* you set the Quick link by it being on top part of the chain,loop..
and the pedal is what you use to pull on your chain.
,,,
I ended up getting the link back on using two pieces of twine with gardening gloves. Took many of my best tugs but got it eventually. I took it off also by using some string/twine, it was easier than reinstalling it but still took several very violent tugs. Do you think that method could bend the link or chain and should not be recommended?
Last edited by MrRider; 05-28-18 at 03:32 PM.
#7
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I'm really thinking of ordering a connex quick link. People are saying you shouldn't use a new masterlink on a used chain, so I'm worried about putting a new connex link on my existing chain which still has heaps of life left but is not new. What do you think? Why can't you use new quick links on used chains? If you damage or bend your masterlink, then you have to replace the whole chain with the quicklink? That sounds hurty.
#8
I'm really thinking of ordering a connex quick link. People are saying you shouldn't use a new masterlink on a used chain, so I'm worried about putting a new connex link on my existing chain which still has heaps of life left but is not new. What do you think? Why can't you use new quick links on used chains? If you damage or bend your masterlink, then you have to replace the whole chain with the quicklink? That sounds hurty.
#9
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From: Central Florida
Bikes: Giant Defy Composite, Spechialized Ruby (hers), Niner RLT9, Miyata 712, Condor ??
I'm really thinking of ordering a connex quick link. People are saying you shouldn't use a new masterlink on a used chain, so I'm worried about putting a new connex link on my existing chain which still has heaps of life left but is not new. What do you think? Why can't you use new quick links on used chains? If you damage or bend your masterlink, then you have to replace the whole chain with the quicklink? That sounds hurty.
#10
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Thanks guys. Do you think it's risky using string to tug apart my link? I mean is there significant risk of damaging the link or even chain? Or are they not so delicate?
#11
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From: Raleigh NC
Bikes: 2013 Giant Defy Composite 2 and 2016 Giant AnyRoad CoMax
Wolftooth makes a nice tool specifically for carry on the bike: https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...ts/pack-pliers
I have one and find it to be well-made and a nice size.
I have one and find it to be well-made and a nice size.
#12
The chain is so strong that the heaviest, strongest sprinters can't break them stomping up hills. String is not going to break anything.
#13
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I don't mean break it for straight on pulling force, but the sideways action. When I'm pulling with the string, due to the fact I have to pull so violently and repeatedly, I'm thinking if some tugs produce a bit of sideways force, could the plates of the link or chain bend out of shape sideways, if you know what I mean?
Last edited by MrRider; 05-28-18 at 04:47 PM.
#14
I don't mean break it for straight on pulling force, but the sideways action. When I'm pulling with the string, due to the fact I have to pull so violently and repeatedly, I'm thinking if some tugs produce a bit of sideways force, could the plates of the link or chain bend out of shape sideways, if you know what I mean?
Use pliers on the outside of the opposite link plates.
#15
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From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3
You can remove by hand, but it tends to be messy because you pretty much have to grab a full handful of chain with each hand. Thumb & forefinger on each side of the link. You need a bit of side to side motion as you try to jam it together to release.
Practice on a NEW, CLEAN chain to get your technique established. They'll come apart slightly harder with the grit & grease involved.
Practice on a NEW, CLEAN chain to get your technique established. They'll come apart slightly harder with the grit & grease involved.
#16
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From: Mission Viejo
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
This looks interesting...
https://www.amazon.com/Moosetreks-Le.../dp/B074QM8NK2
However, I don't see a lot of need because if the chain breaks, you just add another link. As fietsbob said, you need a chain breaker tool to remove any damaged links.
John
https://www.amazon.com/Moosetreks-Le.../dp/B074QM8NK2
However, I don't see a lot of need because if the chain breaks, you just add another link. As fietsbob said, you need a chain breaker tool to remove any damaged links.
John
#17
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From: Mt Shasta, CA, USA
Bikes: Too many. Giant Trance X 29, Surly Midnight Special get the most time.
I've used a small piece of string (by random chance, I have a very thin nylon sheathed spectra line on my keychain at all times) to open a link--it's very easy, and is essentially doing what masterlink pliars do. In my mind a spare link is mostly to fix some major trauma to the chain and replace a damaged link. I carry a multitool with a chain tool for removing damaged links, and I pretty much always install links by connecting the loosely on the bottom run, running them up to the upper run, and pressing on the pedals with the wheel held stationary.
#18
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This looks interesting...
https://www.amazon.com/Moosetreks-Le.../dp/B074QM8NK2
However, I don't see a lot of need because if the chain breaks, you just add another link. As fietsbob said, you need a chain breaker tool to remove any damaged links.
John
https://www.amazon.com/Moosetreks-Le.../dp/B074QM8NK2
However, I don't see a lot of need because if the chain breaks, you just add another link. As fietsbob said, you need a chain breaker tool to remove any damaged links.
John
There's also one that does both open and close for 13 USD:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bike-2in1-o...4AAOxyg6pRFvc3
#19
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#20
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From: Texas
Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel
Oh they're using the pedal. I tried to reinstall my KMC masterlink using my pedal and it wouldn't go in. I stomped the crap out of the pedals several times then stopped as I was worried about damaging something. I had the masterlink in the bottom of the chain loop, so I suppose that was my mistake. The two people I saw on youtube doing that they were doing it from the botton and it worked easily. When I take the link off again, I'll try putting the masterlink on the top.
Also be sure it's the right size Missing Link for the chain. KMC makes two sizes -- 7.1mm and 7.3mm -- very slightly different, but they aren't interchangeable. (Can't check other details right now because KMC's website appears to have been hijacked. Again. Probably a temporary thing over the Memorial Day holiday weekend. Seems like some unsecured websites get hijacked often by spammers and scammers.)
FWIW I just use pliers or heavy duty surgical clamps to open Missing Links at home. I carry a spare on the road but don't carry a tool. I figure if I need the replacement Missing Link the old one has already popped open and gotten lost, so I don't need the tool. But after a Missing Link has been reused a few times it opens fairly easily without a special tool. And the Missing Link seems to hang on pretty securely even when I drop the chain. So far I haven't lost one.
And I wax my chains so I can handle them on with bare hands. Very clean, very little mess -- about like pencil graphite. Boeshield T-9 is pretty clean too, just needs to be applied more often.
Last edited by canklecat; 05-28-18 at 07:05 PM.
#22
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Northwest Georgia
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
KMC makes reusable 11 speed links.
https://store.kmcchain.us/p/missingl...-reusable?pp=8
The link is installed on the top run of chain in the field without pliers. Sit on the bike and pedal forward.
The pliers are worth the money. You will wish you had gotten them sooner.
A short section of coat hanger works for installation and removal in the shop with pliers.

-Tim-
https://store.kmcchain.us/p/missingl...-reusable?pp=8
The link is installed on the top run of chain in the field without pliers. Sit on the bike and pedal forward.
The pliers are worth the money. You will wish you had gotten them sooner.
A short section of coat hanger works for installation and removal in the shop with pliers.

-Tim-
Last edited by TimothyH; 05-28-18 at 07:16 PM.
#23
- Soli Deo Gloria -
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From: Northwest Georgia
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Here's one at timeframe 1:00. I can't find the other:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUISyPC2nY8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUISyPC2nY8
He is forward pedaling and only the top run of chain is in tension. The bottom run of chain is hanging free. What he is doing will not tighten a quick link.
-Tim-
#24
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From: Ottawa,ON,Canada
Bikes: Schwinn Miranda 1990, Giant TCX 2 2012
Beside not knowing why someone would remove a master link beside to clean or replace a chain, which is done usually at home, how do one replace a broken link by a master link without a chain breaker since master link requires both ends to be inner links anyway...
#25
Apparently it is easier to learn how to upload video than it is to learn how a bicycle works. What a fool.





