I'm installing a Shimano Tiagra (FD-4400). Normal routing of the cable (through a guide on the bottom bracket and up) leads to either the cable rubbing on the chain guide inner plate or scraping on the spring cover and ignoring how off it looks certainly didn't make the derailleur work right...What to do?

I can't add pictures, but they're in my album on my profile

The simplest thing you can do is to use a length of inner cable housing on the cable as it comes up through the BB guide. That should allow the cable to move properly without additional friction.

Some frames and BB routing don't match up well with every derailleur. My experience is with Campy 10s on Cannondale and Merckx frames - but I solved the problem using inner cable liner.

If you don't have access to any, let me know and I'll send you a foot of it.

Thanks [MENTION=200991]speedevil[/MENTION] ! I do have extra housing, but I appreciate your generous offer

I tried it-but still having trouble: I can shift it manually (tugging on the cable) but otherwise can't get the tension tight enough to shift to the big ring...

Is there a way, before mounting, to tell if an FD will work with the cable routing? Or is there a bottom bracket guide that plays well with a variety of FDs?

If you can shift it manually, then the FD is working. If it "barely" makes it to the big ring, you may need to back off the limit screw to allow a little more outward movement. Are you sure that the shifter has released all of the cable when the cage aligns with the small ring? Is the cable properly routed around the anchor screw? If not, that can cause an unexpected change to the pull ratio (the length of the lever arm will change with different routing).

Ok, so I started from the beginning with fresh cable and housing and checked to make sure the cable is routed properly through the anchor. I worked through installation according to the fd manual and RJ the Bike Guy. I've adjusted the height, angle, barrel adjuster, and limit screws ad nauseam. The limit screws seem to be key, but if the low limit screw is in enough that my chain doesn't rub the guide while on the big ring, then the fd won't swing in far enough for the small ring. So when I'm pushing the paddles (to shift to the big ring) the fd goes much further out than I need to shift, but once I've released the paddles the chain guide is exactly where I want it. Adjusting the high limit screw makes no difference. In fact I removed the high limit screw, then loosened the low limit screw until I got the fd to go to the small ring. Then when I shifted back to the big ring, suddenly the cable on my down tube had more slack. Does this indicate anything? Can you guide me to figure out where this slack came from?

Older frame with over the BB cable guide, I have a 52t big chainring,

On a newer frame , with an under the BB cable guide, I could use a 50 t chain ring,
since the cable was not interfering with the lower tail of the FD.

... not without it being in front of me, in the room....

A picture would really help and we can't see any of your albums. From your description, I'm not sure you understand how limit screws work. The low limit only sets the location of the cage over the small chainring with no tension on the cable. In other words, it stops the cage from moving toward the seat tube. This should be set before attaching the cable. The high limit screw only stops the cage from moving too far past the large chainring, in order to prevent throwing the chain off the outside of the chainring. There should be no reason to remove it.

I agree with dsaul in that I also don't think you understand how limit screws work. I suggest you go back to the manual and try it again. Per the manual step # 1 is adjusting the low limit screw before attaching the cable (which is step 2). Of course we are assuming you are using compatible 9-speed road shifters (ST-4400, ST-R600, SL-7700, SL-R440) that have the proper cable pull for the front derailleur.