Seized and giving up
#1
Thread Starter
All Ass No Gas
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 136
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From: Azusa, Ca "Everything from A to Z in the U.S.A."
Bikes: 1988 Peugeot St. Laurent, 1974 UO18 Peugeot, 1985 P16 Peugeot, Roadmaster Ground Assult Mtn. Sport, Schwinn Traveler, 1986 Iseran Peugeot, Junet Mixte
Seized and giving up
I have a stem and fork stuck and Im giving up. Ive been trying to get these Peugeot stem and fork apart for days. I tried everything but not everything sure there's a slide hammer or other crazy tools but I just want to put this bike back together. So if I plan on putting it back and adjust it to my size again I think it will be the same as how it seized. So my idea is instead of trying to take it apart, what if I just clean them up and repack the Grease then put it back together. what you guys think?
#2
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Golden, CO and Tucson, AZ
Bikes: 2012 Specialized Elite Disc, 1983 Trek 520
I assume you've loosen the quill stem bolt on top of the stem and rapped on it with a mallet? Do you know how the wedge inside the steering tube works?
I had one completely stuck the other day. The wedge would not come loose. I removed the bolt and the top part of the stem, inverted the bike, removed the wheel, threaded the quill stem bolt in from below, and tapped it out with a mallet. That was after soaking in penetrating oil for a half hour or so. It came right out that way.
I had one completely stuck the other day. The wedge would not come loose. I removed the bolt and the top part of the stem, inverted the bike, removed the wheel, threaded the quill stem bolt in from below, and tapped it out with a mallet. That was after soaking in penetrating oil for a half hour or so. It came right out that way.
#5
How about using a CO2 inflator to cool down (shrink) the stem? You could combine that with applying heat to the head tube. If oil didn't help, I hear Coke makes a good penetrating solution to dissolve corrosion...
#6
Mechanic/Tourist
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
Not sure what your goal is - of course you can put it back together as before. Only you can decide if that solution is acceptable. As far as getting the stem loose, we need to know what specifically you have done so far - not "I tried everything". As noted above, have you knocked loose the expander? Have you tried something like Kroil? Can you access/see the stem from the bottom of the fork column?
#7
Thread Starter
All Ass No Gas
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 136
Likes: 3
From: Azusa, Ca "Everything from A to Z in the U.S.A."
Bikes: 1988 Peugeot St. Laurent, 1974 UO18 Peugeot, 1985 P16 Peugeot, Roadmaster Ground Assult Mtn. Sport, Schwinn Traveler, 1986 Iseran Peugeot, Junet Mixte
#8
Thread Starter
All Ass No Gas
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 136
Likes: 3
From: Azusa, Ca "Everything from A to Z in the U.S.A."
Bikes: 1988 Peugeot St. Laurent, 1974 UO18 Peugeot, 1985 P16 Peugeot, Roadmaster Ground Assult Mtn. Sport, Schwinn Traveler, 1986 Iseran Peugeot, Junet Mixte
Not sure what your goal is - of course you can put it back together as before. Only you can decide if that solution is acceptable. As far as getting the stem loose, we need to know what specifically you have done so far - not "I tried everything". As noted above, have you knocked loose the expander? Have you tried something like Kroil? Can you access/see the stem from the bottom of the fork column?
#10
Mechanic/Tourist
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,522
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From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
OK, don't know if this will help, but if you have access to a large, strong, solidly mounted vise:
Remove the bars from the stem.
Cover the vise jaws with thick rags.
Insert the fork between the jaws and firmly clamp the fork crown.
Put a long adjustable or pipe wrench on the stem and twist back and forth.
Remove the bars from the stem.
Cover the vise jaws with thick rags.
Insert the fork between the jaws and firmly clamp the fork crown.
Put a long adjustable or pipe wrench on the stem and twist back and forth.
#12
SE Wis

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,556
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Coke is just going to leave a sticky mess to attract flies and ants.
#13
Full Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 316
Likes: 64
Let penetrating oil work a few days. Vises or pipe wrenches do more damage than good. With the wheel removed, straddle the fork blades around an open wooden stair tread. Work the handlebars back and forth with your body weight. You can apply a great deal of pressure this way - easily enough to bend the fork. As long as it's steel, you can bend it back. See Dave Mouton's web page for how frame builders re-bend & true forks with a piece of chain and a 2x4.
#14
Facts just confuse people




Joined: Jul 2017
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From: Mississippi
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Did you ever take a mallet or hammer and give the quill bolt a tap to loosen up the quill as [MENTION=291784]andrewclaus[/MENTION] mentioned? Some stems the bolt is too recessed in the stem and a punch or some other metal rod can be used between the bolt head and hammer. You need to make certain there is enough of the bolt threaded in the wedge to prevent damaging the threads, unless you are replacing them and unconcerned.
You likely need to screw the big nut back down on the steering tube before banging on things. Otherwise you'll risk screwing up the threads on the steering tube.
If the wedge isn't loose, you aren't getting the stem out of the steering tube with out damaging something.
You likely need to screw the big nut back down on the steering tube before banging on things. Otherwise you'll risk screwing up the threads on the steering tube.
If the wedge isn't loose, you aren't getting the stem out of the steering tube with out damaging something.
Last edited by Iride01; 06-18-18 at 08:15 AM.
#15
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#16
Banned
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
Abundant past threads on what is galvanic corrosion ..
between aluminum and steel surfaces.
should have removed the stem and lightly greased it again every few years...
lots of people bought "pig-in-a-poke" used bikes over the internet for a cheap price ,
from someone else who may have given up too..
....
between aluminum and steel surfaces.
should have removed the stem and lightly greased it again every few years...
lots of people bought "pig-in-a-poke" used bikes over the internet for a cheap price ,
from someone else who may have given up too..
....
#18
Senior Member


Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,754
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From: Mesa, AZ
Bikes: Moots RCS, tandem, beach-cruiser, MTB, Specialized-Allez road-bike, custom track-bike
Question: have you extracted the expander wedge out bottom?
If you've rapped on expander bolt with mallet, wedge will fall out bottom when you unscrew bolt completely. This allows you to flip bike upside down and spray penetrating oils to loosen up stem.
PB-blaster is the key. Spray it all over the expander from underneath. Also remove expander bolt on top and spray some down from top side as well. Spray some at outside joint between steerer and stem quill.
Let sit overnight.. On most stems I've done this too, I find stem had loosened by morning and dropped down into steerer by itself. Can be removed by hand easily.
If you've rapped on expander bolt with mallet, wedge will fall out bottom when you unscrew bolt completely. This allows you to flip bike upside down and spray penetrating oils to loosen up stem.
PB-blaster is the key. Spray it all over the expander from underneath. Also remove expander bolt on top and spray some down from top side as well. Spray some at outside joint between steerer and stem quill.
Let sit overnight.. On most stems I've done this too, I find stem had loosened by morning and dropped down into steerer by itself. Can be removed by hand easily.
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