New cranks and bb
11-02-18 | 01:15 AM
#1
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From: NWNJ
Bikes: Road bike is a Carbon Bianchi C2C & Grandis (1980's), Gary Fisher Mt Bike, Trek Tandem & Mongoose SS MTB circa 1992.
New cranks and bb
How do determine what size and type of crank and bb to get for older 2001 steel bike its a lemond
chain rings shot and cost to replace seems costly so figure just buy new stuff but all the new bb types are confusing any suggestions
i like the look of Rotor cranks
chain rings shot and cost to replace seems costly so figure just buy new stuff but all the new bb types are confusing any suggestions
i like the look of Rotor cranks
11-02-18 | 04:37 AM
#2
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From: Arlington, VA USA
That bike is going to have what used to be the standard 68mm English threaded bottom bracket (BSA) shell. So you wil need to use a BB for that size shell and matching cranks with a 24mm spindle. I dont know whether Rotor makes a crankset with a 24mm spindle, but Shimano crank/bb combo (Ultegra, e.g.) or SRAM GXP crank/bb combo are good options. Campy cranks and BB also would work.
Updated to add: Hmm, seems Rotor makes a BSA30 BB for making their 30mm spindle cranks work with BSA shells. So that combo could work for you.
Updated to add: Hmm, seems Rotor makes a BSA30 BB for making their 30mm spindle cranks work with BSA shells. So that combo could work for you.
Last edited by DOS; 11-02-18 at 05:13 AM.
11-02-18 | 02:16 PM
#3
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Well the obvious answer is get the same spec as you currently have. We can look up what that bike's specs are publishes as being but going by what the bike actually has is more assumption proof
Since the BB isn't an issue causing this need I see no reason to not continue the same kind but with less worn stuff.
The reason to go to a brand like Rotor might be because they offer non traditional ring shapes and/or their ring/arm rotational changing design. Both are rather independent of the looks. I suggest you decide what function you want first, then what fits and go from that point with what looks good. Andy
Since the BB isn't an issue causing this need I see no reason to not continue the same kind but with less worn stuff. The reason to go to a brand like Rotor might be because they offer non traditional ring shapes and/or their ring/arm rotational changing design. Both are rather independent of the looks. I suggest you decide what function you want first, then what fits and go from that point with what looks good. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
11-02-18 | 03:39 PM
#4
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From: NWNJ
Bikes: Road bike is a Carbon Bianchi C2C & Grandis (1980's), Gary Fisher Mt Bike, Trek Tandem & Mongoose SS MTB circa 1992.
[QUOTE=Andrew R Stewart;20645437]Well the obvious answer is get the same spec as you currently have. We can look up what that bike's specs are publishes as being but going by what the bike actually has is more assumption proof
Since the BB isn't an issue causing this need I see no reason to not continue the same kind but with less worn stuff.The reason to go to a brand like Rotor might be because they offer non traditional ring shapes and/or their ring/arm rotational changing design. Both are rather independent of the looks. I suggest you decide what function you want first, then what fits and go from that point with what looks good. Andy[/QUOTE
New seems to make sense as the stuff is all original Dura Ace nice in the day I just acquired the bike. It looks like the octalink BB and normal old school BB cups not the exterior BB styyle.
I was hoping to get new pretty nice stuff but If the design is prohibited then maybe just the chain rings saw a nice set of red rings to match the frame
Thanks guys for feedback another question if what style crank extractor is it? Hollow octolink BB my old old school remover was not helpful
thanks
Last edited by thehammerdog; 11-02-18 at 03:44 PM. Reason: add photo
11-02-18 | 08:02 PM
#5
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From: Arlington, VA USA
Well, replacing chainrings can be tricky since shimano changed to a four hole design.So for those older Dura Ace cranks, you need to make sure you get the right rings for a five arm spider. What specific model crankset is it (7700 wouldd be my guess)? But if the bb is still good, replacing rings is a good option.
Not sure what you mean bupy design being prohibited. You have options for new cranks.You can get new dura ace cranks with external dura ace bb cups, or other cranks designed to use with bsa bottom bracket. seems even your dsire for Rotor is realizable with a BSA30 BB.What groupset do you have? Modern cranksets, even though designed for 11 speed chains,will work with 9 or 10 speed chains (I am guessing you have 9 speed.).
Seems you have a Park cwp5 puller or similar for square taper bbs.You need one with a wder interface for octalink cranks.My Park CWP6 has served me well for may years but you could also get a ccp 44 puller, which has a handle so you don’t need a wrench. Alternatively, you could get some self extracting crank bolts and use those to extract the cranks. Also, if you want to replace the BB, you will need the right bb tool. I think Dura Ace cups had external notches by 2001 so youmwill need the tool for those.
Not sure what you mean bupy design being prohibited. You have options for new cranks.You can get new dura ace cranks with external dura ace bb cups, or other cranks designed to use with bsa bottom bracket. seems even your dsire for Rotor is realizable with a BSA30 BB.What groupset do you have? Modern cranksets, even though designed for 11 speed chains,will work with 9 or 10 speed chains (I am guessing you have 9 speed.).
Seems you have a Park cwp5 puller or similar for square taper bbs.You need one with a wder interface for octalink cranks.My Park CWP6 has served me well for may years but you could also get a ccp 44 puller, which has a handle so you don’t need a wrench. Alternatively, you could get some self extracting crank bolts and use those to extract the cranks. Also, if you want to replace the BB, you will need the right bb tool. I think Dura Ace cups had external notches by 2001 so youmwill need the tool for those.
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