Shimano DA TL-FH30 freehub removal tool question
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Shimano DA TL-FH30 freehub removal tool question
I've got a TL-FH30 removal tool inbound, along with a DA 7403 hubset. I need to swap this 7403 freehub onto my 7401 hub so that I can use a 10 speed cassette.
I've not been able to find any how-to's about using this tool - can anyone pass along some knowledge? Or how about you drive to western Kentucky for some in-person mentoring?
Thanks in advance.
I've not been able to find any how-to's about using this tool - can anyone pass along some knowledge? Or how about you drive to western Kentucky for some in-person mentoring?
Thanks in advance.
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I've got a TL-FH30 removal tool inbound, along with a DA 7403 hubset. I need to swap this 7403 freehub onto my 7401 hub so that I can use a 10 speed cassette.
I've not been able to find any how-to's about using this tool - can anyone pass along some knowledge? Or how about you drive to western Kentucky for some in-person mentoring?
Thanks in advance.
I've not been able to find any how-to's about using this tool - can anyone pass along some knowledge? Or how about you drive to western Kentucky for some in-person mentoring?
Thanks in advance.
Wipe out the grease with a paper towel to expose where the splined tool needs to engage the splines at the bottom of the free hub bearing cup.
Insert the tool into the splines and place a socket of the correct size over the hex head of the tool (19 mm?) - then attach your ratchet or a sliding T bar then remove freehub. AFAIK - you remove by turning counter clockwise.
Reinstall in reverse order. Do not grease the coarse threads that thread into the aluminum hub shell. Apply light oil only, this is to prevent overtorquing.
Dissassemble your axle, locknuts, washers and any rubber seals that you find. Thoroughly clean everything. You will need a longer axle to handle the increased width of the 7403 freehub body and allow chainstay clearance for your 10 speed cassette. Wheels manufacturing makes a high quality replacement axle for this - I want to say it is a 10mm x 139mm.
Reassemble the hub like you would when re-packing bearings. Use fresh grease and fresh bearings if you have them. Or, re-use the old bearings if they appear OK. Make sure that the amount of axle protrusion beyond the locknut is balanced side to side and that the protrusion does not exceed the thickness of your dropouts. Snug up your cones and then the locknuts against the cone, and remember that final bearing adjustment changes slightly once the quick release skewer compresses the axle in the frame.
These are great, under rated hubs that will last a lifetime. Let us know how it goes!
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My rear hub has the 8-speed UG freehub on it (external thread only for the small cog), and a 130mm axle. I think I have everything I need, I'm just waiting on the tool and the donor hub. Apparently 7403 freehubs are not often found in the wild so I bought a hubset as a donor. I'll put my 8 speed freehub on the donor and resell them. Or trade them. Or however it works out.
I have zero experience with DA hubs, but they seems very smooth and the freehub is more quiet than I expected.
Are we going to see you at the Bourbon and Tobacco Tour this April? Hope so.
I have zero experience with DA hubs, but they seems very smooth and the freehub is more quiet than I expected.
Are we going to see you at the Bourbon and Tobacco Tour this April? Hope so.
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I am the unfortunate owner of several 7400-series cassette hubs. These hubs were well made, but the highly unique parts render them orphaned. When I first started to horde bike stuff about 20 years ago, clearly more knowledgeable horders than me fobbed these off on me.
So if you have the special threaded #1 cogs for the 7400/7402 hubs, or the very rare 7403 freehubs, or the remover tool, take great care of them.
Note that the 7403 freehub will accept Hyperglide cogs (up to 10), but not cassettes starting with an 11 tooth cog. Which overall is a good thing, given how useless this cog is.
The Uber-rare 7403 freehub: err on the side of caution by servicing the insides of this by flushing and lubing regularly. These are irreplaceable.
So if you have the special threaded #1 cogs for the 7400/7402 hubs, or the very rare 7403 freehubs, or the remover tool, take great care of them.
Note that the 7403 freehub will accept Hyperglide cogs (up to 10), but not cassettes starting with an 11 tooth cog. Which overall is a good thing, given how useless this cog is.
The Uber-rare 7403 freehub: err on the side of caution by servicing the insides of this by flushing and lubing regularly. These are irreplaceable.
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I picked up a donor because I couldn't find a 7403 freehub body anywhere. I'm hoping that the insides of the donor hub are good, otherwise I'm no better off than before, except I'm out the $$ too.
I'll definitely service it before putting the hub together.
I'll definitely service it before putting the hub together.
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My rear hub has the 8-speed UG freehub on it (external thread only for the small cog), and a 130mm axle. I think I have everything I need, I'm just waiting on the tool and the donor hub. Apparently 7403 freehubs are not often found in the wild so I bought a hubset as a donor. I'll put my 8 speed freehub on the donor and resell them. Or trade them. Or however it works out.
I have zero experience with DA hubs, but they seems very smooth and the freehub is more quiet than I expected.
Are we going to see you at the Bourbon and Tobacco Tour this April? Hope so.
I have zero experience with DA hubs, but they seems very smooth and the freehub is more quiet than I expected.
Are we going to see you at the Bourbon and Tobacco Tour this April? Hope so.
My daughter moved to Louisville last May & I have been a delinquent dad & not even seen her abode yet (she is 29 y/o BTW)!
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I won't tell your daughter that part of the reason you're heading south is for a bike ride - does that help?
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This is the tool I got, but it is to remove a freehub that is pressed into place. I'm fairly sure that the 7403 freehub is threaded into place with a 10mm allen.
Maybe the 7402 freehub is different?
Maybe the 7402 freehub is different?
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The one in the picture is not the right one - the correct on had like 8 little splines on it.
the one in the picture I believe is for the earlier Dura Ace “EX” Dura Ace hub - you’ll need the ____ one (sorry, I’m @ work & can’t recall the P/N for what you want).
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You need the Shimano TL-FH10 tool. Rare as hen's teeth. Expensive if you can find them.....I've seen them listed for ~$80 on eBay. One of my local bike shops that has been in business for a long time has one.....I tried to buy it from them last summer. All I got was a smile.
My suggestion would be to reach out to shops near you....like me, you may get lucky. An alternative is to make a 4-spline version yourself by carefully filing the corners of some 7/16" square keystock so it will barely fit into the splines of the freehub. It works, but I don't expect it will hold up in the long term.....which is why I made an extra. I can send a pic if you would like.
I concur with @masi61, the freehub is turned CCW for removal and DO NOT grease the threads when you reinstall.
Dean
My suggestion would be to reach out to shops near you....like me, you may get lucky. An alternative is to make a 4-spline version yourself by carefully filing the corners of some 7/16" square keystock so it will barely fit into the splines of the freehub. It works, but I don't expect it will hold up in the long term.....which is why I made an extra. I can send a pic if you would like.
I concur with @masi61, the freehub is turned CCW for removal and DO NOT grease the threads when you reinstall.
Dean
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Well, this is quite the rabbit's hole I'm going down. I may have found the tools I need, but I have asked if I can borrow the FH10 tool from a member. If he's OK with that, great. If not, I'll have to keep digging.
Thanks for the information, I sure don't want to ruin the freehub or the hub using the wrong tool. If I can pull this together, I'll remember this rabbit hole trip every time I take the bike out.
I am curious about the "no grease" on the threads, but that oil is OK. Is there something special about the threads that I've missed? Normally, steel into aluminum would get a little grease.
Thanks for the information, I sure don't want to ruin the freehub or the hub using the wrong tool. If I can pull this together, I'll remember this rabbit hole trip every time I take the bike out.
I am curious about the "no grease" on the threads, but that oil is OK. Is there something special about the threads that I've missed? Normally, steel into aluminum would get a little grease.
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Well, this is quite the rabbit's hole I'm going down. I may have found the tools I need, but I have asked if I can borrow the FH10 tool from a member. If he's OK with that, great. If not, I'll have to keep digging.
Thanks for the information, I sure don't want to ruin the freehub or the hub using the wrong tool. If I can pull this together, I'll remember this rabbit hole trip every time I take the bike out.
I am curious about the "no grease" on the threads, but that oil is OK. Is there something special about the threads that I've missed? Normally, steel into aluminum would get a little grease.
Thanks for the information, I sure don't want to ruin the freehub or the hub using the wrong tool. If I can pull this together, I'll remember this rabbit hole trip every time I take the bike out.
I am curious about the "no grease" on the threads, but that oil is OK. Is there something special about the threads that I've missed? Normally, steel into aluminum would get a little grease.
....well, damn, my primitive skills are not allowing me to show you the page from Shimano's instructions. You may be able to find this yourself by entering "Shimano TL-FH10 no grease" into your web browser. That's how I found it.
Dean
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Last edited by Dean51; 01-10-19 at 11:24 AM.
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@Dean51, says pretty clearly that no oil or grease should touch the freehub threads. Still seems odd with steel threading into alloy, but OK.
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@Dean51, says pretty clearly that no oil or grease should touch the freehub threads. Still seems odd with steel threading into alloy, but OK.
But it it is true - when they say no grease or oil - they mean it!
You asked is there something different about the threads and to that I would answer - “yes”.
Once you get your 7402 freehub body off, you will note that there is a coursely threaded protrusion on the bottom of the FH body. There is no removable bolt. The geometry of the threads themselves are sharp, coming to a near knifelike point on the screw helix. This most likely corresponds with the tapped hole that is bored into that bump out in the aluminum hub shell.
A pretty slick system really!
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Well, this is quite the rabbit's hole I'm going down. I may have found the tools I need, but I have asked if I can borrow the FH10 tool from a member. If he's OK with that, great. If not, I'll have to keep digging.
Thanks for the information, I sure don't want to ruin the freehub or the hub using the wrong tool. If I can pull this together, I'll remember this rabbit hole trip every time I take the bike out.
I am curious about the "no grease" on the threads, but that oil is OK. Is there something special about the threads that I've missed? Normally, steel into aluminum would get a little grease.
Thanks for the information, I sure don't want to ruin the freehub or the hub using the wrong tool. If I can pull this together, I'll remember this rabbit hole trip every time I take the bike out.
I am curious about the "no grease" on the threads, but that oil is OK. Is there something special about the threads that I've missed? Normally, steel into aluminum would get a little grease.
https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-N-7...00-ENG_GER.pdf
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There is a Taiwan company making them again, $35 delivered: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TL-FH10-Com...freehub-bodies
Dean
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#18
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At first I thought you were talking about this tool:
TL-FH40 Shimano hub tool. Another hard to find item.
Thinking I might try to make one for the various wheels that come through the shop.
TL-FH40 Shimano hub tool. Another hard to find item.
Thinking I might try to make one for the various wheels that come through the shop.
#19
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I should add one more thing.. all 7400/7402/7403 hubshells are not identical. I was sifting through my box of Dura-Ace jetsam, and noticed that some of these shells require a donut-shaped steel washer in order to provide space between the freehub and hub shell. Similar to later Hyperglide freehubs.
The consequence of not installing the washer is that the outside of the freehub will bind against the hub shell. Again, this is only certain freehub/hub combinations.
The consequence of not installing the washer is that the outside of the freehub will bind against the hub shell. Again, this is only certain freehub/hub combinations.