I know this has been discussed before that the right dustseal you get with the Hyperglide RM-30 freehub doesn't fit the Uniglide axle cone when you do this conversion, but according to Wheels Manufacturing the correct cone for this freehub isn't available any more. Does anyone know of a cone that would work: it apparently is 16.9 mm in diameter and 15mm long?

The other thing I've thought about doing - which is kind of rough and crude - is to just enlarge the opening in the dustseal with a die grinder until it fits the UG cone, in which case the cylindrical part in the middle of it would get ground away. Or another idea would be to pack the end of the freehub full of grease and count on this plus the lockring for the cassette to keep the dirt from getting to the bearing and just go without a dustseal.

Thanks for any information.

Hopefully you haven't ordered the part yet. I'm pretty sure an RM30 freehub body won't work on a Uniglide hub.

I've already got the freehub outer shells switched out following the directions on a Youtube video by "RJ the Buke Guy". Everything worked out fine except - like I said - the right UG cone is too large in diameter for the HG dust seal (which you have to use because the HG freehub has internal lockring threads). Either you have to find a right cone (of the correct diameter) off of a HG rear hub or you have to enlarge the inside of the dust seal so it fits over the UG cone (or you have to do without the right dust seal). I'm leaning toward the latter option so I don't have to look high and low for the correct outside diameter right cone unless someone on the board here knows where I can still get one.

Except for the notches in the cassette lockring for the removal tool splines the inside diameter of lockring is so close to the outside diameter of the UG cone that it's tempting to just do without the right side dust seal. This is a road bike so it's not like a mountain or cyclocross bike that's going to be around a lot of dirt.

UG to HG upgrade also involves a change from 6 speed to 7 speed. When I did it to one of my bikes I changed out the axle to a longer one. I found the right hand (drive side) cones & seals on ebay.

Go to the plumbing section of your local hardware store. There you will find a wide selection of rubber o-rings, washers and grommets. You should be able something that is a snug fit over the axle locknut and axle spacers but wide enough to cover the Hyperglide locknut splines. Basically, you're creating an external seal.

I was fortunate to find a grommet that looks like it is made for this application. It snaps right into the Hypergide lockring and even has a small retention collar to prevent it from popping out. The flange compltely covers the lockring splines.

I did it the simply way and bought a 7spd RSX level hub and took the freehub/cassette body, right side cones, seals and axle and put them in the UG 600 hub. Worked like a charm

Ah, you're doing the more involved surgery! I've heard of people doing that, but haven't had any need to try it myself.

My preference in that situation would just be to buy another DS cone of appropriate dimensions (perhaps the Wheels Manufacturing CN-RO60?) rather than messing with the fragile dust shield. But I do like [MENTION=20650]T-Mar[/MENTION]'s solution!

I looked up my purchase history on ebay. No images from 2015 anymore. Description of item: #45 NOS Shimano 10mm x 1.0 Bearing Cone Race Jam Nut Hub Axle Kit. It contained the cone, spacer, locknut , & seal for RH side of axle. It fit the new HG hub perfectly along with a new 7 speed cassette.

I did the exactly the same.

I looked up my cone/freehub dustcap measurements for 7 speed hyperglide (with the external uniglide threads on the freehub)

All drive side dustcaps have an od of 29.5

6400 tricolor has a 17mm cone and dustcap has a 21 id, using a rubber seal fitted to a slot in the cone

1055 and M452 (and similar) uses a 17 cone with mechanical seal (2 cut metal washers) and a 18mm id dustcap

I’m not sure how the RM-30 compares, but if it does, maybe try the ISO thread, some people may be looking for the uniglide cones and dustcaps -

the ones I mentioned (seem to me) to be much more plentiful than the uniglide parts (the short uniglide cone and dustcap was critical in getting a tricolor to fit 120 spacing, using a 6speed uniglide body)

Good luck

Joe

Yes, this is one of those things where you don't know what you're getting into until you get into it. I will say the video I mentioned above on the conversion is a bit misleading even though it explains pretty well the basic principle of the swap. It just doesn't deal with the issue of what you do AFTER you get the freehub bodies swapped out (he even puts the HG seal back on without putting any wheel bearings in the race first which is a real puzzler).

I hate to have to modify an original seal, but it's such a cheap plastic part that that still makes the most sense to me to do to get this project done (hopefully). I can't see spending money on a whole new axle assembly just to get a right cone that clears the seal as it is.

Sounds like a first world problem

I got the dust seal ground down and everything put together and the cogs on the Sunrace cassette (that's supposed to be hyperglide compatible according to Sheldon Brown's chart) I got won't get tight with the locknut (unless they're supposed to be a little loose). Also the freehub body is binding up with the main wheel hub body shell so it probably needs another spacer or something on the bottom to free it up.

I may look into the RSX hub option mentioned above. Any particular one I need to look for?

I'm starting to wish I would've built this bike up with some type of vintage friction shifting group. This Shimano indexed crap is for the birds unless you can buy all the parts together that were intended to go together in the first place.

Being more of a Campy and French parts person I'm new to the Shimano world, and I'm starting to hate Shimano!

Got it figured out for the most part in case anyone cares. Turns out the loose cassette cog problem was the outside seal I cut down that was keeping the cassette locknut for getting tightened all the way. There's no room for ANY outside seal in the freehub when you do this swap, so I'll have to get something at the hardware store as mention above to put over the end of the cassette to try to keep any dirt out.

Also I had reused the thin inner seal that was part of the UG freehub to seal it to the wheel hub body, and that's what was causing it to seem like it was binding up as I mentioned above, so I just did away with this and the freehub spins freely. Maybe if I greased it I would have been able to keep it on, but oh well. Knock on wood all seem fine now.

Thanks again for all the input

For what it's worth, I don't remove the dust seal from my freehub bodies when servicing the bearings. I use a pair of tweezers to remove or install the bearing balls, and a paper towel or rag on the end of my pinky when wiping out old grease.

The dust seals are so flimsy that it's hard to avoid bending them if you try to remove and reinstall them.