Shimano Cable Stops - wing or barrels
#1
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Shimano Cable Stops - wing or barrels
In the process of yet another down tube shifted to brifter conversion and my supply of cable stops is down to only pairs that have a wing/padddle/lever, and a standard barrel. I never really cared for the odd looking mismatch, and have always used barrel types on both fittings. Never had any problems dialing shifts in with both barrels used. Questions are, is the wing/paddle/lever, supposed to be used with a specific type setup? Is there some perceived benefit of the wing/paddle/lever over the barrel knob? If so, why were they never made for both sides? Hope someone can explain this Shimano tidbit and all of it’s mystical ramifications
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Early on in the roll out of STI shifting Shimano felt that "on the fly" fine tuning of the rear der's trim was a good idea. Hence the rear only paddle adjuster. In time they came to the conclusion that it wasn't needed and dropped the feature. In the hundreds of bikes I've dealt with that have the paddle adjuster I don't think I've run across more then a very few that used the feature. Andy
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YMMV but in general the FD needs finer adjustment than the RD so it gets a barrel while the RD gets the quicker/easier lever on the higher end groupsets.
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As Andy noted, early STI groups used a paddle adjuster for the RD. I had them on an 8-speed 105 equipped bike but, as also noted, never used it as an on-the-fly adjuster. I still have two sets of them in my parts box, one still in it's original factory sealed plastic bag.
#5
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I tend to only use such an adjuster, on indexed bikes , with the bike up on the shop stand,
so I can watch what the adjustment effect is...
On the down tube is too far away... on the RD itself is best ..
IMHO
....
so I can watch what the adjustment effect is...
On the down tube is too far away... on the RD itself is best ..
IMHO
....
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My experience is that the paddle is easier and faster to adjust but isn't always precise enough to give just the right adjustment. I like the barrel adjusters better. Just make sure you grease the threads and turn them in and out every so often so they don't seize in the braze-on.
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Recently I switched my early '90s Trek 5900 from downtube to brifters. I had one barrel adjuster cable stop for the left/FD, and one lever for the right.
I think I used the lever adjuster once while riding after the new cable stretched a bit.
Usually I'd just stop and twiddle the barrel adjusters or use a multitool to tighten the slack on stretched new cables.
Nifty looking doodad, though.
The right lever adjuster looks a little nicer.
I think I used the lever adjuster once while riding after the new cable stretched a bit.
Usually I'd just stop and twiddle the barrel adjusters or use a multitool to tighten the slack on stretched new cables.
Nifty looking doodad, though.
The right lever adjuster looks a little nicer.
#8
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Recently I switched my early '90s Trek 5900 from downtube to brifters. I had one barrel adjuster cable stop for the left/FD, and one lever for the right.
I think I used the lever adjuster once while riding after the new cable stretched a bit.
Usually I'd just stop and twiddle the barrel adjusters or use a multitool to tighten the slack on stretched new cables.
Nifty looking doodad, though.
The right lever adjuster looks a little nicer.
I think I used the lever adjuster once while riding after the new cable stretched a bit.
Usually I'd just stop and twiddle the barrel adjusters or use a multitool to tighten the slack on stretched new cables.
Nifty looking doodad, though.
The right lever adjuster looks a little nicer.
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