Mixing Shimano and Campagnolo shouldn't work but it does
#1
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Mixing Shimano and Campagnolo shouldn't work but it does
I have to rebuild my rear wheel which has Shimano-compatible hub and 10-speed cassette. It's a hodgepodge drivetrain: 105 10-speed shifters, Ultegra front derailleur, and Sora rear derailleur. I grabbed a spare wheel with Campagnolo hub and Miche Campagnolo-compatible 10-speed cassette. It works! I know why it shouldn't work. I don't know why it does. I know the "centeron" feature adds slop in deliberately, so maybe that's it? Some shifts are delayed, and some shifts need a little nudging afterward, but that's how it's been with my purely Shimano drivetrains, so this is no worse.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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#2
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Lessee: Campy 10-speed spacing averages out to 4.12mm cog to cog. Shimano is 3.95mm. So mixing the two should produce decent shifting for most of the cassette, except at the ends of the cassette.
Also depends on your definition of 'works'. If you've ever run a dialed-in Shimano Alfine (internal gear), then you'll appreciate a new definition of what is good mechanical shifting.
No hesitation in shifting, no missed shifts, ghost shifts, no in-between gears. Shifts are instant, precise and totally reliable.
Many folks I ride with, even regular experienced cyclists, use drivetrains that are a clattering noisy mess, and they don't know any difference.
Also depends on your definition of 'works'. If you've ever run a dialed-in Shimano Alfine (internal gear), then you'll appreciate a new definition of what is good mechanical shifting.
No hesitation in shifting, no missed shifts, ghost shifts, no in-between gears. Shifts are instant, precise and totally reliable.
Many folks I ride with, even regular experienced cyclists, use drivetrains that are a clattering noisy mess, and they don't know any difference.
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@Dave Mayer, absolutely, my standard is not one of perfection. Yes, I've tried an Alfine, and it's outstanding, definitely better than this. But I'm surprised it works this well. I don't understand why my Shimano derailleur drivetrains aren't much better than this mixed drivetrain, either. Maybe it's because I cobbled them together out of used and worn out components. I don't really know if they're worn, but they might be.
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Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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I have Campagnolo 8 speed indexed shifters and derailleurs. When I first put the bike together I had a wheel with a Shimano hub with Shimano 8 speed cassette. I bought a J-Tek shiftmate adapter to use, but forgot to install it. I used the bike for several weeks before I realized I forgot the J-Tek. It shifted just fine and I never bothered installing the J-Tek. I eventually built up a Campy rear wheel of the same (8 speed) vintage. I really can't say if it shifts a little better or not. It was fine the way it was. Maybe I'm just not picky and tolerate less than optimum shifting, having "grown up" with 5hi++y shifting, cheap bikes in the 70s.
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Campy 8s shifting 5mm on Shimano's 4.8mm spacing could work okay because it's overshifting. Could even work sweet, with the right sort of slop or mush in the system.
Not so much with an undershift. OP seems to be used to something petty sub-optimal. 2nd-gen Shimano 10s can be pretty crap out of the box, but any other Shimano system, and it'd have to be worn parts or excess friction or something. 8s should be quite precise, 9s a little less so and 10s a tad less still, although the actual shift of the chain from cog to cog gets nicer as the spacing narrows, if that makes any sense.
Not so much with an undershift. OP seems to be used to something petty sub-optimal. 2nd-gen Shimano 10s can be pretty crap out of the box, but any other Shimano system, and it'd have to be worn parts or excess friction or something. 8s should be quite precise, 9s a little less so and 10s a tad less still, although the actual shift of the chain from cog to cog gets nicer as the spacing narrows, if that makes any sense.
#6
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Campy 8s shifting 5mm on Shimano's 4.8mm spacing could work okay because it's overshifting. Could even work sweet, with the right sort of slop or mush in the system.
Not so much with an undershift. OP seems to be used to something petty sub-optimal. 2nd-gen Shimano 10s can be pretty crap out of the box, but any other Shimano system, and it'd have to be worn parts or excess friction or something. 8s should be quite precise, 9s a little less so and 10s a tad less still, although the actual shift of the chain from cog to cog gets nicer as the spacing narrows, if that makes any sense.
Not so much with an undershift. OP seems to be used to something petty sub-optimal. 2nd-gen Shimano 10s can be pretty crap out of the box, but any other Shimano system, and it'd have to be worn parts or excess friction or something. 8s should be quite precise, 9s a little less so and 10s a tad less still, although the actual shift of the chain from cog to cog gets nicer as the spacing narrows, if that makes any sense.
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Providence. Like I said, a slight overshift can work pretty well. Keep in mind though, the chain moves a bit further than it should when moving towards the edges of the cassette, which is okay, but on the way back to the centre it doesn't move quite far enough, which you may or may not notice.
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