I have specialized Axis Elite wheels on my 2018 Diverge. When converting to tubeless (using Specialized Trigger Pro 2Bliss tires) I noticed what looked like pretty robust tape already in the rim; indeed, Stan's tape won't stick to it.

So I converted without adding tape. Initially the results were OK, but one week in the tires won't hold pressure at all (flat overnight; immediately noticeable pressure drop from even 35 psi). Using Stan's sealant & valves. The bead seems to be well seated.

Did I make a mistake by not using additional tape? If so, any suggestions on tape that will stick to the tape that is already present in the wheel?

TIA.

Don't mix tapes. Remove whatever's there, put down one or two layers of Stan's, WTB, etc. They're all pretty much the same. Tubeless tape requires the rim bed to be as absolutely clean as possible prior to application.

Thanks. I was hoping that wasn't going to be the reply - that tape has a pretty strong adhesion. But if that's what it takes...

OK, I submerged a wheel in a tub of water, and it was clear the leak is coming from the valve stem - not the spoke holes. So, thinking that the Stan's valve was just a little too small for the specialized wheels, I bought some Serfas stems, which have a slightly larger diameter rubber grommet where the valve seats to the rim. Same problem. Fast leak clearly visible when submerged.

However, when tightening down the lock-nut of the Serfas, I noticed what I think the problem is. The valve hole in the rim is drilled off-center, and/or at a slight angle. Thus the stem - once installed - points to the right of the centerline of the wheel, instead of directly at the center of the hub. Just looking at the hole on the outside of the rim, without the stem installed, the hole is clearly asymmetrical. This, coupled with the slight deep-dish profile of the rim, causes the Serfas rubber grommet in the locknut to bulge badly out on one side as I tighten the locknut down. Sadly, I'm not yet able to post images.

So, is this uncommon? A QA issue on Specialized part? Anybody have luck sealing a rim with an off-center valve hole like this?




TIA.

Sorry to give this a bump, but I have the exact same thing going on. Off centre valves on Axis rims. I'm using Uberbike valves and they just don't seal on the outer rim.

I was wondering if you found a solution?

Cheers

Chris

Add my second bump to this as I too am experiencing the exact same thing. It can't be co-incidental. It really gets underneath my skin as I had a 2018 Diverge A1 Sport that I had not one issue with going tubeless with the stock tires and rims - I bumped it up for 2021 and got the base carbon which is like $900 more and I am pretty sure I just wasted an afternoon trying to get the front tire set up. I noticed as well as the off center stem hole the rim seam (where the ends what at one point was straight aluminum before being curled into a circle and joined together) leaks a bit as well - That can't be a good thing as I have a feeling that is something that could very easily turn into a much bigger problem when least expecting it - hit an unseen hole or rock and snap front rim splits and crumbles. Not happy.

I actually have turned my Axis Elite tubless yesterday without problems.
If of any interest I did the following:
- removed original tape (is not sealant tape, only protects tubes from getting damaged by spokes)
- applied sealant tape
- applied tubless valve (no matter the off center hole)
- inserted sealant liquid
- inflated tyres with compressor

That did the trick for me.
I hope this helps!

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are you able to post a few pictures on how the valve stem sits on the exterior of the wheel?

im wondering if the offset doesn’t matter since the seal happens on the inner rim and those of us without success have a leak there and not near the valve

actually this really does not help. Please tell us what valves you used. For us it seems a valve issue and not a taping issue. Thank you.

Any news on how to solve this/what valves to use?
I ran into the same issue with the stock axis rims from my 2020 diverge.
The air is definitely leaking from the valves. Front and back same thing. I haven't applied a second layer of tape yet but used a lot of sealant and they are almost tight. But over night there air is gone.
How can they build such wheels....

I had the same problem, I end up applying Stan’s tape and electrical tape on top. The Stan’s work as a support for the pressure and the electrical tape seals the rim. I also added plumber putty on the valve (applied between the valve and rubber adapter and between the rubber adapter and rim). Applied one layer of Stan’s (Center to the rim) and two layers of the electrical tape (they overlap because each layer is offset of the centerline. So far it is working, it took me many different solution before this one worked. Got a bit nervous with the fact that the electrical tape may “climb” the rim hook and reduces the grip of the tire bead to the hook, use soapy water to facilitate the installation of the tire.

Just set up my Axis Elite wheels tubeless. I was also having the same problem with air leaking through the valve stem. This is how I got mine to work:
1. Must remove original axis tape. This was the key thing to get it to work.
2. Two layers of Stans 25 mm tape.
3. Make small hole in the tape at the valve hole then jam in the valve stem and really press it in tight through rim. Apply stem nut and no need to over tighten. Just tighten by hand. I used Stans valve
4. Apply 2 oz Stans regular sealant. I added it through the valve with core removed.
5. Replace the core, turn the wheel gently a few times then hook up your compressor and prepare to be amazed!
FYI, I used specialized sawtooth tubeless ready 42c tires.
Also I emailed Specialized and confirmed these are in fact tubeless ready rims.
At one point I was gonna get my bike shop to do it. I called a local shop that sells lots of specialized bikes and when I told them I was using this Axis wheels they said “ooo we can try but we have a hard time with those. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don’t!”

Two things that made the difference for me in converting these rims to tubeless:
- Cleaning off the glue from the original rim tape, there was a fair amount of it stuck under the ridge of the rim after I took the tape off, cleaned with a rag soaked in alcohol using a small alen wrench to get a piece of the rag up under the ridge
- wrapping the 25mm tape twice around the rim. First time I had had to wrap a rim twice to go tubeless but it worked well on these rims

Great info...thanks.
I have a '23 Diverge Comp E5 with the Axis Elite Disk wheels.
I run them with a tube and suffered a pinch flat at the Old Forge Gravel Grinder race, and last night...our groups, The Graveleros lol, first night ride of the season...at Tug Hill in Northern NY...I suffered two flats. The first was another pinch flat when I hit a rock hard and the second is when I pinched the tube when replacing the first one...sigh...too much in a hurry.
So I am going tubeless and was wondering...without doing any searching other than here...if it could be done and the results.
I'm not a big person nor a 'heavy' rider...I'm 5'4" and weight 136lbs. I'm also not a 'heavy rider' but night rides make it a bit easier to miss rocks sometimes on fast downhills.
Going to make the change tomorrow at the shop where I work.
Thanks for all the info I've read and I'll post how it all turned out and what I used in a few days.
Cheerio!

Seems like people are talking past each other. The OP and several subsequent posters had a very specific problem. On these OC rims, the valve hole is off centered. When you tighten down the valve nut, there is a tendency for the nut to slip and pull the whole valve off to one side. On my OC Kinlin rim I had no issue at all. But I imagine that on other OC rims the hole maybe big enough for the valve to tilt to one side. I would try to fix it by wrapping aluminum tape around the valve to build up its diameter to match the rim valve hole. Build it up until there is no sideways slop, and then tighten the nut.