Tips on removing a stuck seat post
11-20-21, 08:32 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Tips on removing a stuck seat post
Any tips or tricks. This seat post is locked solid.
I have tried brute force.
I have tried heating the post up.
I have managed to wedge a screwdriver in where the locking nut to the frame goes and open a little and still no success and run WD40 into and around it.
Still no joy!
I have tried brute force.
I have tried heating the post up.
I have managed to wedge a screwdriver in where the locking nut to the frame goes and open a little and still no success and run WD40 into and around it.
Still no joy!
11-20-21, 09:20 AM
#2
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Do a search here as there have been numerous threads on this very subject. Good luck.
11-20-21, 10:40 AM
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I would put the saddle back on and use PB Blaster.
The last sat one I did I soaked with Blaster a couple of days, lay the frame front triangle over a flat ground hanging the rear free. I grabbed the frame top tube pulling up while stepping on the saddle tip. Do be careful though one can break or bend tubes in doing so.
The post on this one was frozen and slammed in at maximum insert.
The last sat one I did I soaked with Blaster a couple of days, lay the frame front triangle over a flat ground hanging the rear free. I grabbed the frame top tube pulling up while stepping on the saddle tip. Do be careful though one can break or bend tubes in doing so.
The post on this one was frozen and slammed in at maximum insert.
11-20-21, 11:47 AM
#4
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Sheldon Brown: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html
11-21-21, 04:28 PM
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Cut off the top of the seat post.
-Take a hacksaw blade and begin sawing the inside of the seat post (up and down) with your hand.
-After cutting through the seat post, use channel locks or vice grips to scroll the seat post and pull it out.
-its slow and tiring, but it works.
-Take a hacksaw blade and begin sawing the inside of the seat post (up and down) with your hand.
-After cutting through the seat post, use channel locks or vice grips to scroll the seat post and pull it out.
-its slow and tiring, but it works.
11-21-21, 05:01 PM
#6
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Before you folow any of the more invasive and time-consuming suggestions, take it to your local auto repair shop and have a mechanic use a heavy-duty pneumatic hammer on the underside of the saddle clamp of the seatpost. Ten seconds and done.
Note: don't clamp the frame in a fixture first---just hold the frame up by hand while the pneumatic hammer is slamming the saddle clamp. Clamping the frame solidly will absorb most of the impact, rendering the air hammer less effective, and might result in damage to the frame.
Note: don't clamp the frame in a fixture first---just hold the frame up by hand while the pneumatic hammer is slamming the saddle clamp. Clamping the frame solidly will absorb most of the impact, rendering the air hammer less effective, and might result in damage to the frame.
11-21-21, 05:05 PM
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There are a ton of videos on this. Be patient or you may damage the frame. Last one I got out with two large crescent wrenches under the seat clamp. Helps to have someone hold the frame. You can turn upside down and spray down the seat tube also.
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11-21-21, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by curbtender
You can turn upside down and spray down the seat tube also.
11-21-21, 07:39 PM
#9
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WD-40 is not a good penetrant. Read the Sheldon Brown article.
11-22-21, 04:16 AM
#10
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Thanks, friends - I may try a combination of these suggestions and order some PB Blaster and see if that does the trick.
11-23-21, 04:04 AM
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Heating the post causes the post to expand and that makes it more difficult to remove. If you can get some freeze mist (used for rapidly cooling electronic components) , spray it inside of the post liberally after letting some good penetrant soak in (CRC, PB Blaster, etec) and give it a twist/pull, whatever. You could also try using dry ice, but be careful to avoid freezing your fingers.
11-23-21, 06:57 AM
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If you're using wd40 then I'd guess you haven't done much..or any research on the issue. A quick search is your friend as this topic has had a lot of discussion.
This thread was within the last week..
Thickest, stuckest seat post
This thread was within the last week..
Thickest, stuckest seat post
11-23-21, 04:24 PM
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Remove the BB and pour a mixture of automatic transmission fluid and naptha down the tube with frame upside down. Wrap the frame in rags and pour hot water on them while twisting the seat.
11-23-21, 04:46 PM
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11-25-21, 08:12 PM
#16
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I wish they made the part already with the holes drilled.
Many would buy it !!😁😁
Many would buy it !!😁😁
11-26-21, 05:39 AM
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A couple of issues I saw in this video-
The drill bit is too long to be safe. I have a scar in my bicep from a drill bit that fractured as it was being used to drill a hole in a wooden garden tool handle- they really don't like to bend much unless they're crap.
The seat tube is split at the rear and has the two bosses for the bolt- this can be carefully/easily spread a bit, to allow creating a small gap between the tube and seat post and the penetrant will seep in better.
This bike was abused and not well maintained, as many are but a very clean bike can have a stuck seat post because of dissimilar metals. This is one of the reasons I don't like washing a bike with water-based cleaners and flushing with fresh water- it's hard to dry it completely before corrosion sets in and with Aluminum being such a reactive metal, it's even more important to dry it and use an anti-corrosion chemical.
The seat needs to be removed periodically and some anti seize compound added as a regular maintenance step.
The drill bit is too long to be safe. I have a scar in my bicep from a drill bit that fractured as it was being used to drill a hole in a wooden garden tool handle- they really don't like to bend much unless they're crap.
The seat tube is split at the rear and has the two bosses for the bolt- this can be carefully/easily spread a bit, to allow creating a small gap between the tube and seat post and the penetrant will seep in better.
This bike was abused and not well maintained, as many are but a very clean bike can have a stuck seat post because of dissimilar metals. This is one of the reasons I don't like washing a bike with water-based cleaners and flushing with fresh water- it's hard to dry it completely before corrosion sets in and with Aluminum being such a reactive metal, it's even more important to dry it and use an anti-corrosion chemical.
The seat needs to be removed periodically and some anti seize compound added as a regular maintenance step.
