Tips on removing a stuck seat post
11-20-21 | 08:32 AM
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 25
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From: Sussex, UK
Bikes: Cannondale CAAD8, Giant, and many in bits
Tips on removing a stuck seat post
Any tips or tricks. This seat post is locked solid.
I have tried brute force.
I have tried heating the post up.
I have managed to wedge a screwdriver in where the locking nut to the frame goes and open a little and still no success and run WD40 into and around it.
Still no joy!
I have tried brute force.
I have tried heating the post up.
I have managed to wedge a screwdriver in where the locking nut to the frame goes and open a little and still no success and run WD40 into and around it.
Still no joy!
11-20-21 | 09:20 AM
#2
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Do a search here as there have been numerous threads on this very subject. Good luck.
11-20-21 | 10:40 AM
#3
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I would put the saddle back on and use PB Blaster.
The last sat one I did I soaked with Blaster a couple of days, lay the frame front triangle over a flat ground hanging the rear free. I grabbed the frame top tube pulling up while stepping on the saddle tip. Do be careful though one can break or bend tubes in doing so.
The post on this one was frozen and slammed in at maximum insert.
The last sat one I did I soaked with Blaster a couple of days, lay the frame front triangle over a flat ground hanging the rear free. I grabbed the frame top tube pulling up while stepping on the saddle tip. Do be careful though one can break or bend tubes in doing so.
The post on this one was frozen and slammed in at maximum insert.
11-20-21 | 11:47 AM
#4
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Sheldon Brown: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html
11-21-21 | 04:28 PM
#5
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From: Houston area
Bikes: 1961 Higgins Flightliner
Cut off the top of the seat post.
-Take a hacksaw blade and begin sawing the inside of the seat post (up and down) with your hand.
-After cutting through the seat post, use channel locks or vice grips to scroll the seat post and pull it out.
-its slow and tiring, but it works.
-Take a hacksaw blade and begin sawing the inside of the seat post (up and down) with your hand.
-After cutting through the seat post, use channel locks or vice grips to scroll the seat post and pull it out.
-its slow and tiring, but it works.
11-21-21 | 05:01 PM
#6
Before you folow any of the more invasive and time-consuming suggestions, take it to your local auto repair shop and have a mechanic use a heavy-duty pneumatic hammer on the underside of the saddle clamp of the seatpost. Ten seconds and done.
Note: don't clamp the frame in a fixture first---just hold the frame up by hand while the pneumatic hammer is slamming the saddle clamp. Clamping the frame solidly will absorb most of the impact, rendering the air hammer less effective, and might result in damage to the frame.
Note: don't clamp the frame in a fixture first---just hold the frame up by hand while the pneumatic hammer is slamming the saddle clamp. Clamping the frame solidly will absorb most of the impact, rendering the air hammer less effective, and might result in damage to the frame.
11-21-21 | 05:05 PM
#7
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From: SF Bay Area, East bay
Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200, Soma double cross 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball, Waterford rs11
There are a ton of videos on this. Be patient or you may damage the frame. Last one I got out with two large crescent wrenches under the seat clamp. Helps to have someone hold the frame. You can turn upside down and spray down the seat tube also.
11-21-21 | 05:44 PM
#8
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From: Auckland, NZ
Bikes: 2014 Avanti Circa (Rd Dist), 2020 Giant Toughroad (Rd Tour), 2021 Trek Allant+ 8S (eCommute), 2021 Scott Aspect 940 (Mt HT), 2014 Santa Cruz Superlight 29er (Mt FS), 2022 Scott Spark 960 (Mt FS)
This. I would hang the frame upside down, and if you have some bottle cage bosses, take the bolts out and spray WD40 or something similar inside the bolt hole (otherwise take the BB out and spray from there) - hopefully the WD40 will soak in from the bottom of the seat pole...
11-23-21 | 04:04 AM
#12
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Joined: Nov 2021
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Heating the post causes the post to expand and that makes it more difficult to remove. If you can get some freeze mist (used for rapidly cooling electronic components) , spray it inside of the post liberally after letting some good penetrant soak in (CRC, PB Blaster, etec) and give it a twist/pull, whatever. You could also try using dry ice, but be careful to avoid freezing your fingers.
11-23-21 | 06:57 AM
#13
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From: SE Wisconsin
Bikes: Lemond '01 Maillot Jaune, Lemond '02 Victoire, Lemond '03 Poprad, Lemond '03 Wayzata DB conv(Poprad), '79 AcerMex Windsor Carrera Professional(pur new), '88 GT Tequesta(pur new), '01 Bianchi Grizzly, 1993 Trek 970 DB conv, Trek 8900 DB conv
If you're using wd40 then I'd guess you haven't done much..or any research on the issue. A quick search is your friend as this topic has had a lot of discussion.
This thread was within the last week..
Thickest, stuckest seat post
This thread was within the last week..
Thickest, stuckest seat post
11-23-21 | 04:24 PM
#14
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From: Lincoln Ne
Bikes: RANS Stratus TerraTrike Tour II
Remove the BB and pour a mixture of automatic transmission fluid and naptha down the tube with frame upside down. Wrap the frame in rags and pour hot water on them while twisting the seat.
11-26-21 | 05:39 AM
#17
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Joined: Nov 2021
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A couple of issues I saw in this video-
The drill bit is too long to be safe. I have a scar in my bicep from a drill bit that fractured as it was being used to drill a hole in a wooden garden tool handle- they really don't like to bend much unless they're crap.
The seat tube is split at the rear and has the two bosses for the bolt- this can be carefully/easily spread a bit, to allow creating a small gap between the tube and seat post and the penetrant will seep in better.
This bike was abused and not well maintained, as many are but a very clean bike can have a stuck seat post because of dissimilar metals. This is one of the reasons I don't like washing a bike with water-based cleaners and flushing with fresh water- it's hard to dry it completely before corrosion sets in and with Aluminum being such a reactive metal, it's even more important to dry it and use an anti-corrosion chemical.
The seat needs to be removed periodically and some anti seize compound added as a regular maintenance step.
The drill bit is too long to be safe. I have a scar in my bicep from a drill bit that fractured as it was being used to drill a hole in a wooden garden tool handle- they really don't like to bend much unless they're crap.
The seat tube is split at the rear and has the two bosses for the bolt- this can be carefully/easily spread a bit, to allow creating a small gap between the tube and seat post and the penetrant will seep in better.
This bike was abused and not well maintained, as many are but a very clean bike can have a stuck seat post because of dissimilar metals. This is one of the reasons I don't like washing a bike with water-based cleaners and flushing with fresh water- it's hard to dry it completely before corrosion sets in and with Aluminum being such a reactive metal, it's even more important to dry it and use an anti-corrosion chemical.
The seat needs to be removed periodically and some anti seize compound added as a regular maintenance step.
