Mavic hub/wheel issue.
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Hi folks,
My trip to the auto parts store successfully solved the spacing problems. The designation for the washers is M12 for the ID of 12mm. they come in various materials, outside diameters and thicknesses. I got copper ones 2.5mm thick. The OD is a couple of mm larger than the stock one, but doesn’t cause a problem. They were $0.75 each. Other than dealing with the circlips, these are easier to work on than the early Suntour/Sunshine sealed bearing units.
The result was 3mm clearance between the outside edge of the S-M FW and the edge of the axle flange. I only had to re-center ~1mm. Easy enough. A couple of precautions; 1. Be very careful with the little circlips. 2. The stock washer needs to be next to the bearing to prevent binding. 3. The nut on the axle not only holds the NDS bearing in place, it also place tension on the bearings. Tighten cautiously.
When assembled, everything worked as designed on the work stand. Ultegra derailleurs, Shimano STI bar end shifters, SRAM chain and the Sachs-Maillard FW. Unfortunately, I didn’t get a test ride in due to the rain. I will try to get it on the road with the first clear spell.
Thanks for all the help.
Cheers,
Van
My trip to the auto parts store successfully solved the spacing problems. The designation for the washers is M12 for the ID of 12mm. they come in various materials, outside diameters and thicknesses. I got copper ones 2.5mm thick. The OD is a couple of mm larger than the stock one, but doesn’t cause a problem. They were $0.75 each. Other than dealing with the circlips, these are easier to work on than the early Suntour/Sunshine sealed bearing units.
The result was 3mm clearance between the outside edge of the S-M FW and the edge of the axle flange. I only had to re-center ~1mm. Easy enough. A couple of precautions; 1. Be very careful with the little circlips. 2. The stock washer needs to be next to the bearing to prevent binding. 3. The nut on the axle not only holds the NDS bearing in place, it also place tension on the bearings. Tighten cautiously.
When assembled, everything worked as designed on the work stand. Ultegra derailleurs, Shimano STI bar end shifters, SRAM chain and the Sachs-Maillard FW. Unfortunately, I didn’t get a test ride in due to the rain. I will try to get it on the road with the first clear spell.
Thanks for all the help.
Cheers,
Van
FYI, Sachs 8 freewheels were spaced for Campy or Sachs 8 speed systems - 5mm per shift. Shimano is 4.8. So if you have a little shift weirdness on index, that's why. Adjust for the middle of the freewheel and you'll be fine. I have a Suntour set up shifting on an 8 speed Shimano cassette that works great. It's the opposite set up, but you get what I'm saying.
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130 mm freewheel hubs unfortunately still exist on low-end hybrids with 7-speed freewheels. The intent is to offer a price-point wheel with a frame that is compatible with 8-speed freehubs.
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The reason 8-speed freewheels were uncommon was that the 130 mm axles broke, so the companies that made them shifted their efforts to freehubs.
130 mm freewheel hubs unfortunately still exist on low-end hybrids with 7-speed freewheels. The intent is to offer a price-point wheel with a frame that is compatible with 8-speed freehubs.
130 mm freewheel hubs unfortunately still exist on low-end hybrids with 7-speed freewheels. The intent is to offer a price-point wheel with a frame that is compatible with 8-speed freehubs.
The OP's heavy axle 130 hub is a unusual and not likely to fail.
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The reason 8-speed freewheels were uncommon was that the 130 mm axles broke, so the companies that made them shifted their efforts to freehubs.
130 mm freewheel hubs unfortunately still exist on low-end hybrids with 7-speed freewheels. The intent is to offer a price-point wheel with a frame that is compatible with 8-speed freehubs.
130 mm freewheel hubs unfortunately still exist on low-end hybrids with 7-speed freewheels. The intent is to offer a price-point wheel with a frame that is compatible with 8-speed freehubs.
The OP's heavy axle 130 hub is unusual and not likely to fail.
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As for this Mavic hub, it looks like the use of sealed bearings allowed for a thicker, stronger axle. I would not hesitate to use this hub, either.
Last edited by oldbobcat; 01-12-23 at 05:59 PM.
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Any freewheel hub with 130mm spacing is an 8-speed freewheel hub. While there were other cassette designs in the '70s that never got a following, (Cinelli had one), Shimano led the way to the widespread adoption of freehubs. Their 126 mm Dura-Ace and 600 freehubs predated 8-speed. But there was a brief period when Campagnolo, Miche, and other manufacturers were making 8-speed freewheel hubs by simply putting longer axles in their old designs. And when I started working in a shop 14 years ago, I had to ask why we had drawer full of new 8-speed freewheels that nobody could use. Well, you could put them on a Trek 3500 if you upgraded to an 8-speed shifter.
As for this Mavic hub, it looks like the use of sealed bearings allowed for a thicker, stronger axle. I would not hesitate to use this hub, either.
As for this Mavic hub, it looks like the use of sealed bearings allowed for a thicker, stronger axle. I would not hesitate to use this hub, either.
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Point well taken. Thanks. I was out of the equipment loop as 8-speed was coming around, and relying on what the guys I worked with were telling me ten years after the fact.
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I just remembered something. While this Mavic hub does say it will accept an 8 speed freewheel, the black graphics is from their mountain components. And 130mm was the old 7 speed mountain standard. So I wouldn't say that Mavic made hubs for 8 speed freewheels as much as they made 130 hubs and offered a method to respace them for 8 speed freewheels when Sachs introduced them.
Mavic had a freehub for road 8 speed - the 571.
Mavic had a freehub for road 8 speed - the 571.
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It actually says add spacers to an 8 speed axle, The way I read it, adding spacers to the existing 6/7 speed axle would reduce the axle engagement with the bearing to the point that it might be unreliable. Without pulling it apart, we can't really tell.
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It is a road 8 speed axle, and also a mountain 7 speed axle. The added offset on road isnt the problem it would be for MTB. But it is always 130mm, not 126.
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Great job!
FYI, Sachs 8 freewheels were spaced for Campy or Sachs 8 speed systems - 5mm per shift. Shimano is 4.8. So if you have a little shift weirdness on index, that's why. Adjust for the middle of the freewheel and you'll be fine. I have a Suntour set up shifting on an 8 speed Shimano cassette that works great. It's the opposite set up, but you get what I'm saying.
FYI, Sachs 8 freewheels were spaced for Campy or Sachs 8 speed systems - 5mm per shift. Shimano is 4.8. So if you have a little shift weirdness on index, that's why. Adjust for the middle of the freewheel and you'll be fine. I have a Suntour set up shifting on an 8 speed Shimano cassette that works great. It's the opposite set up, but you get what I'm saying.
Thanks for the spacing info. It explains the 1mm width difference. I finally got the bike on the road today and discovered that the S-M freewheel with the Shimano shifters is sluggish when down shifting under a load. Change to the SunRace and the shifts were crisp.
Thanks again,
Van
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Hi,
Thanks for the spacing info. It explains the 1mm width difference. I finally got the bike on the road today and discovered that the S-M freewheel with the Shimano shifters is sluggish when down shifting under a load. Change to the SunRace and the shifts were crisp.
Thanks again,
Van
Thanks for the spacing info. It explains the 1mm width difference. I finally got the bike on the road today and discovered that the S-M freewheel with the Shimano shifters is sluggish when down shifting under a load. Change to the SunRace and the shifts were crisp.
Thanks again,
Van