Ovenkooked

This winter I decided to replace my bent axle on my rear hub for the first time, but as I started my disassembly removing the skewers, etc I found out that it has cartridge bearings rather than cup-and-cone. I started this process thinking that it would be the latter, however I got to a point where the it's just the axle sticking out of the cartridge bearings (Image: imgur(dot)com(slash)DfoZbaj). While I did come across resources on cartridge bearing hubs they all seem to be for thru-axle, and they all just seems to just slide out from this point.

If anyone has any pointers that would be much appreciated. Are some hubs just made unserviceable? I'm considering getting a new replacement wheel, but wanted to make sure I'm not throwing out otherwise a perfectly good wheel.

The hub I'm trying to disassemble is by Shunfeng, and it has quick release and freewheel.

Thanks

Soody

pic assist:

Soody

So a 5200 RS bearing looks like this:
The inner part is not threaded. Looks like you've disassembled it as far as you can, on that side at least.
I suspect the axle is not coming out because it is bent, and you will get it out by smashing it with a hammer. Or you could place the axle on the ground and push down hard on the hub.

Soody

That's a pretty shoddy design having the threaded axle fit directly into the bearing like that. Usually there's a threaded/smooth piece between them on cartridge hubs.

Ovenkooked

Oh my god it worked! I used a bigger hammer this time instead of mallet and it came right out. Thank you so much for your help.

Ovenkooked

It's was a cheap wheel, so I'm not too surprised. As you predicted, the axle goes right on the bearing cartridge (imgur(dot)com/PqbNckw). Lesson today is, whack em if they're stuck.

Soody

Y​​​​ep, worst case scenario, you break it. That's better than it breaking you.

Soody

pic:

Soody

So yeah, that is a crappy design that is not really intended to be serviced. Good luck finding another one of those axles.

When you're re-assembling it try to devise some way to press the bearing into the hub shell/ onto the axle, rather than hitting it on. Paying a shop to do it or buying a proper bearing press will be prohibitively expensive considering the crapiness of the hub.

dedhed

Hitting is fine it's WHERE you hit that matters.

Andrew R Stewart 

Every design has conditions that if left out of the discussion can make things seem wrong. This example traded off easy axle replacement and preload adjustment against cost. Is that crappy? Since I didn't buy the wheel I am not the one to say so.

Another design of a cartridge bearing hub with a "traditional" 10mm x 1tpm and QR axle is the SunTour version. They used a threaded on the axle sleeve that fit inside the bearing's ID. An axle w/o any ground bearing seats was good for future replacement needs. The bearing preload was adjusted just like a cup and cone design (and like the C&C design often over preloaded right from the beginning). The bearings cost about the same but the specific to this design axle fitting threaded sleeve drove the cost up. More parts more cost.

But the real issue is that 10mm axle and large freewheel cog counts. Independent of bearing or axle easy/availability of replacement is that the bending will continue until the moral improves. Andy (trying to make a joke)

SurferRosa

I would "soak 'em" first.

Use equal parts acetone and ATF.