As promised. Here are some pics of my learning curve. 1993 Trek 970. I stripped, painted, and modified to 700c wheels, road crank and drop bars. The take-away from this is a lesson in fit geometry, reach, and tons of reading on conversion solutions. In the end - it worked…but needed more tweaking. The reach felt over-extended to the brake levers. But I have a long back - it wasn’t the reach to the flat portion - that was ok… but I felt over extended in the levers. I am not as limber now at 63/64 and the bar end shifters kept me down - and I learned that I need a more upright position. The BB height wasn’t noticeable - whether higher or lower. I was more interested in correct leg extension. Going back to original fork, 26” wheels, and new straight bars.

I should add that I could have installed straight bars with a back sweep. And, I added my name on the down-tube over the clear-coat. I had a 1977 Raleigh Professional with early Phil Wood hubs stolen from me. The sticker takes away from the look, but it’s better than having the bike taken from me. I still think about that bike. At that time - it was one of the better bikes and I zipped around on that thing all over Cleveland. I even made some panniers for it and wobbled on some camping trips and long distance rides. Ignorance is bliss. Thanks for the technical discussion about this. Wish I knew about this site before I struck out blindly.

Soma pedals
unknown carbon fiber fork
Duara-Ace (DA) triple crank (ebay)
Vittoria Rims and Dura-Ace hubs (ebay)
Dura-Ace levers and front brake (ebay)
GB center pull rear brake (for fit to 700c)
Moots swept seat post
Ritchie bars, stem, headset
Velo-calls from ebay (not 1993 decals)
Brooks seat with springs B? (I like it)
Ultegra bottom pull triple front DR (ebay)
Shimano XT rear DR (ebay)
Leather bar tape
DA Bar end shifters - friction. (ebay)
Shimano 9 speed from 7 speed.

most of the components were new and NOS and reasonably priced from ebay. Wheelset was used but in mint condition. Most had free shipping. Sellers made price offers so I wasn’t in a hurry.

my next project is an older Bianchi cyclocross and the bars and wheels from this etc are going on that for my son for a pseudo zip around road bike. I wish Velo-cals was still around!

Nice job with the paint and the vintage DA parts are cool. Can't see it being rideable with that saddle tilt and wild bar setup, so good call on ditching that! Post some pics when you get it revised.

Thank you. It is and remains to be a learning process. Funny how my view of bikes has changed. When younger I thought less rolling resistance, high pressure skinny tires, minimizing wind resistance and tucking was the only way to ride, and a stiff front fork and short wheelbase was the only thing. Nuovo Record was the aspiration… then Shimano and Dura Ace came on the market and gained more popularity… but now, lower pressure tires, upright position, comfort, and wide tires on dirt roads is my focus. I started back in the early 70’s with sew-up glue on on tires and patch kits with needle and thread. Now I look for stiff sidewalls, knobby tires, low pressure, and puncture resistant laminated tires. Throw in an electric motor and integrated electronics, lights, alarms, walk assist and perhaps soon radar. But some things never change… my butt gets sore, i still feel my legs burning, I need to pedal, and I breathe heavier and my heart rate increases burning calories. . Some things I hope won’t change (well, the sore butt thing can certainly change at the least).

Here’s my 1992 950. I’m actually going the other way by setting it up with its original equipment - I’ll be putting the original stem and bars on soon. But you’re conversion shows how versatile these frames (hand built) can be. One long-time member here once said “if I could own only one bike…”.

Very nice. Good point about versatility. This bike is 30 years old now. Who would have guessed. I am re-converting to 26” wheels etc. I am interested in your quill stem. I’m afraid that the original stem on this is still low… or I need to get a riser bar. I just put a new flat bar with some rise to it… but it’s not enough. I think your 950 may also have a 970 stamped on the BB. I am guessing that your 950 frame would be the same as a 970 frame. The difference may be in components, stem, perhaps wheels and hubs (XT? Vs LX) and fork between the two.

it is rewarding to keep these things going. The mechanics of these and upgrading or adding newer designs and components is a little challenging - but it’s not rocket science either. There is a way to come at challenges from different angles.

this site educated me on mechanics and geometry much faster than through trial and error and more time… and money.

Envious of your dust collection system.

Bike looks good too!

I think you’re right about the frames being essentially the same. I didn’t install that stem and handlebars and I don’t see any markings on them. I’ll take a better photo of these components and post back soon.

I make furniture, a friend makes guitars and now getting ready for a timber frame addition. Occasionally an antique truck rolls in there for fitting and assembly after the grunt degreasing, disassembly, and restoration of parts abd sheet metal is done. Shop is 26x36 with two rooms on each end about 20x24 each for firewood, parts, unused machines, engines, cabs and ply sheet goods.

We log, skid, cut and mill hardwoods up here and sticker and stack the wood. I do reproductions, Shaker and study the history of each piece.

Bikes take up less room - and are equally as fun. Still have a lot to learn about mechanics, tools, technique and ‘modern’ stuff.

Saddle Tripper Comparing the top and bottom photos, the front tire seems to be mounted in the wrong direction. Probably not a big deal performance wise. To the extent you are keeping the front brake caliper after installing a new straight handlebar, the caliper seems too tight and has the release lever in the open position.

yes. Thanks for pointing that out. I appreciate your keen eyes. I ordered a cable tension tool today (name?) that will help me adjust brake cables. I am going back to the cantilever brakes on this bike.

Parts are trickling in. Headset, handlebars, tubes and tires came in yesterday and today. Here is todays progress - seeing that it’s got a bite in the air and it’s overcast snowing it’s good to tinker on this.

I am using Schwalbe “Pick up” tires for cargo bikes. The load capacity is 342 pounds. Seeing that I weigh 290 already …. Will be attaching gear…. I hope these will fit the bill. . I chose them not for performance so much but, for getting me from Point A to Point B.

I don’t have anything to compare to - but I ordered a set of Panaracers classic Smoke /Dart XC tires too for the other wheel set. They are so thin … and the online description didn’t really say they are for racing and high performance. So… going to send them back. Nice looking gum sidewalls but, I don’t see how they will hold up on sone rough roads and encountering roadside shoulder debris. Thoughts about these? A lot to learn.

putting these tough tires on the rims wasn’t so bad. I worked them around then used Gorilla tape around the rim and tire to hold my progress. Then I worked them some more and used woodworking Quick Clamps to compress the tires and hold The beads in place while made progress. I saw that they wanted to work off the rim and I didn’t have enough hands to assist. My 1970 vintage set of aluminum tire irons helped to get the last 12” on the rim. And the last 4” just popped right on with two irons. Plastic ones would have snapped.

the original Trek Matrix wheels cleaned up well. No bumps and they are true. Put new bearings, and axles with cups on them. They sat in the basement for a few years and needed some work.

Regarding the quill stem pictured, the bike came with it already installed. I just removed it to install the original and the only markings on the stem are ITC 25.4. I tried to look it up and can’t find any info on it - appears to be fairly nondescript stem.