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Help with 610 ERD Rim Swap

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Help with 610 ERD Rim Swap

Old 06-12-23, 01:57 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by mpetry912
it's a great instrument. it gives you merciless feedback on your wheelbuilding skills.

/markp

Ever compared it to a parktool one?
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Old 06-12-23, 02:57 PM
  #27  
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Nah. I compared it to a rock, it was better.

/markp
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Old 06-12-23, 03:22 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
Without knowing for sure, I suspect that the reason you're seeing an alternating high/low pattern is that the wheel was originally built with the same length on both sides. This doesn't compensate for the 2mm difference that dished rear wheels typically need.

In any case, ride the bike once you feel the wheel is true enough, and use what you've learned here next time.
I would check the difference between the best and worst regarding "shortness".
If the amount is around 3-4mm (or more), I'd suspect DS & NDS spokes got intermixed.
IF so, start from scratch with the spokes separated by length. Longer spokes are NDS.

Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 06-12-23 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 06-12-23, 03:59 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
.....
I'd suspect DS & NDS spokes got intermixed.
.....
Not likely, since (if?) the OP transferred the rim, leaving the spokes in the hub.
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Old 06-13-23, 05:52 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
IF you decide to try to finish yourself, either with this rim or another, here sre some hints to help you build a round, true, evenly tensioned wheel without spending dough.

Keep spoke length uniform is the most important step. Consider it the foundation for all that follows.

1 - start by bringing all spokes to the same length. Since your spokes are short, set your thumb nail at the last thread and bring all nipples up to it. If the spokes are too short to still be slack move your nail up a thread or two.

2- add tension by degrees in increments, of equal nipple turns. Depending on tension, you can start by full turns, then by halves, then by quarter turns.

3- as you see some tension, progress by degrees one flange at a time. Don't worry about dish yet, but be religious about keep length uniform.

4- once there's some tension, set the elbows by grabbing paired crosses and squeezing hard. Doing this now avoids having unset elbows throw you off later.

5 - do a quick check for hop, and bring in the worst high spots. Do this in small increments spreading the adjustments among multiple spokes m

REMINDER you've kept spoke lengths uniform within one thread, or 1 full turn of a nipple, so do not rock that boat.

6- With hop OK, bring wobble to within 5mm or so, while bringing dish to slightly too far to the right

7- by now you should want a resonably aligned wheel at about 3/4 tension. Continue to add tension in small increments while improving alignment, especially hop.

8- check for isolated off tension spokes by spinning the wheel with a pencil hitting spokes. Listen for serious off pitch spokes and address them with small adjustments.

9 semi final true. As always focus on hop over wobble. Shoot for a perfect wheel, slightly over dished with no hop at 90% or so of goal tension. Time to stress relieve.

10 finish true using left side spokes only to correct both dish and wobble
You should b not need to touch any right spokes at this point. Stress relieve and touch up as needed.

You now have a perfectly aligned wheel at close to your goal tension, so you are done.

IF you have and wish to use a tension meter, you'd do so at step 9, checking a few random spokes to confirm the the average tension is on target. There's no need to check all spokes because the method ensured uniform tension all along, and the ping test resolved any outliers.
Thanks! I never knew truing steps in detail like this.
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