Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Help with 610 ERD Rim Swap

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Help with 610 ERD Rim Swap

Old 06-12-23, 01:57 PM
Full Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 245
Liked 55 Times in 37 Posts
Originally Posted by mpetry912
it's a great instrument. it gives you merciless feedback on your wheelbuilding skills.


Ever compared it to a parktool one?
ign1te is offline  
Old 06-12-23, 02:57 PM
aged to perfection
mpetry912's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: PacNW
Posts: 1,897

Bikes: Dinucci Allez 2.0, Richard Sachs, Alex Singer, Serotta, Masi GC, Raleigh Pro Mk.1, Hetchins, etc

Liked 1,317 Times in 698 Posts
Nah. I compared it to a rock, it was better.

mpetry912 is offline  
Old 06-12-23, 03:22 PM
Really Old Senior Member
Bill Kapaun's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Posts: 13,960

Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3

Liked 1,323 Times in 911 Posts
Originally Posted by FBinNY
Without knowing for sure, I suspect that the reason you're seeing an alternating high/low pattern is that the wheel was originally built with the same length on both sides. This doesn't compensate for the 2mm difference that dished rear wheels typically need.

In any case, ride the bike once you feel the wheel is true enough, and use what you've learned here next time.
I would check the difference between the best and worst regarding "shortness".
If the amount is around 3-4mm (or more), I'd suspect DS & NDS spokes got intermixed.
IF so, start from scratch with the spokes separated by length. Longer spokes are NDS.

Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 06-12-23 at 03:42 PM.
Bill Kapaun is offline  
Old 06-12-23, 03:59 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 39,135

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Liked 2,957 Times in 1,639 Posts
Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
I'd suspect DS & NDS spokes got intermixed.
Not likely, since (if?) the OP transferred the rim, leaving the spokes in the hub.
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 06-13-23, 05:52 AM
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Liked 50 Times in 32 Posts
Originally Posted by FBinNY
IF you decide to try to finish yourself, either with this rim or another, here sre some hints to help you build a round, true, evenly tensioned wheel without spending dough.

Keep spoke length uniform is the most important step. Consider it the foundation for all that follows.

1 - start by bringing all spokes to the same length. Since your spokes are short, set your thumb nail at the last thread and bring all nipples up to it. If the spokes are too short to still be slack move your nail up a thread or two.

2- add tension by degrees in increments, of equal nipple turns. Depending on tension, you can start by full turns, then by halves, then by quarter turns.

3- as you see some tension, progress by degrees one flange at a time. Don't worry about dish yet, but be religious about keep length uniform.

4- once there's some tension, set the elbows by grabbing paired crosses and squeezing hard. Doing this now avoids having unset elbows throw you off later.

5 - do a quick check for hop, and bring in the worst high spots. Do this in small increments spreading the adjustments among multiple spokes m

REMINDER you've kept spoke lengths uniform within one thread, or 1 full turn of a nipple, so do not rock that boat.

6- With hop OK, bring wobble to within 5mm or so, while bringing dish to slightly too far to the right

7- by now you should want a resonably aligned wheel at about 3/4 tension. Continue to add tension in small increments while improving alignment, especially hop.

8- check for isolated off tension spokes by spinning the wheel with a pencil hitting spokes. Listen for serious off pitch spokes and address them with small adjustments.

9 semi final true. As always focus on hop over wobble. Shoot for a perfect wheel, slightly over dished with no hop at 90% or so of goal tension. Time to stress relieve.

10 finish true using left side spokes only to correct both dish and wobble
You should b not need to touch any right spokes at this point. Stress relieve and touch up as needed.

You now have a perfectly aligned wheel at close to your goal tension, so you are done.

IF you have and wish to use a tension meter, you'd do so at step 9, checking a few random spokes to confirm the the average tension is on target. There's no need to check all spokes because the method ensured uniform tension all along, and the ping test resolved any outliers.
Thanks! I never knew truing steps in detail like this.
WT160 is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Your Privacy Choices -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.