Do you need to pull them in then tighten them somehow or something else? They barely work. Thanks!

Normally you would tighten the barrel adjuster, not sure what's going on with that one, and the zip-tie. The cable could be loosened, then tightened after taking up some slack in the cable by squeezing the brakes towards the rim.

Generally I position my reflectors vertical for best function before tightening them up. Oh, wait, were you talking about the brakes?


The cable barrel adjuster is sort of hindered by the cable tie but the first way is to loosen the barrel up and secure that position with the knurled lock nut. Second might be to take up the slack via the cable anchor bolt and cable clamping point.

Make sure that the flimsy QR/adjuster barrel bracket isn't spreading too wide to support the shelf that it rides on. I often bend the bracket sides in slightly to better clasp the adjuster barrel. Make sure the caliper arms are moving freely w/out and fore/aft slop.

And lastly make sure what ever cable housing end "treatment" you use seats into the barrel adjuster top end, it looks like a housing end cap is simple butted against the adjuster barrel w/out entering the recessed end. Andy

Sometimes it takes some practice to get familiar with bicycle brake adjustment. These should be easy. Don't be afraid just dive in and git-er-done. I might add that fresh brake pads are very important. Even if they do not look worn they can become useless. My method is to loosen the barrel adjuster and cable. I then take a heavy vice grip and lock it onto the end of the cable letting it hand down freely and tension the cable. Next I squeeze the caliper against the rim and then tighten down the cable. Now I just loosen the brakes from the rim via barrel adjuster. So you will then have to center the caliper and then adjust the brakes again.


I like using Mountain Bike Pads on all my bikes: Amazon 2 Pairs Bike Brakes Pads Set, 70mm for Cruiser MTB Mountain Bicycle Universal V-Brake Blocks with Hex Nut and Shims, No Noise No Skid 7 USD.

Besides the issues pointed out by others, the pic makes it look like the pads might be way too high and rubbing on the tire when activated. But likely just the angle of the pic and depth of field for the shot.

The pads should only touch the rim when you squeeze the lever.

actually, you "loosen" the barrel adjuster.... it appears to be as "Tight" as it can be.... it needs to be lefty-loosened to take up cable slack.

that's to prevent the caliper release from releasing on it's own... i've used a bread sack twist tie to do similar until a proper fix could be made...

i guess no one has noticed the problem at the Cable housing/adjuster junction point........ no, not the zip tie.

This style of caliper brake and brake pad both tend to provide weak braking capacity even with brand new pads, cables and housing installed. I would replace pads, cables and housing and you may improve braking slightly but it will never compare to more modern brake systems.

Thanks guys. Squeezing them together then re-rightening seemed to do the trick. How do they keep equally spaced around the rim? They don't seem to be rubbing but I often wonder if they ever get stuck one way or the other how to adjust if needed

I suspect that the cable is binding inside the housing. Looking at the cobble-job where the housing enters the caliper release, it doesn't even seem that the housing end is even seated in the caliper release, which, I suppose, is why someone put a zip-tie on there.


I'd disconnect the cable, and ideally, replace it and the housing with fresh cable and housing. Failing that, I'd pull the cable out of the housing, inspect for damage and/or rust and replace the cable if needed, then squirt some lube into the housing, if it is not kinked, cracked, or otherwise damaged. Hook everything back up and adjust as shown in @zandoval's video.

The CENTERING is set by holding the outer Cap nut with a wrench, then holding the brake clamped on the rim, then loosen/tighten the nut on the other end of the brake mount/spindle.... or at least that's how it's supposed to work... usually, the back nut is a nylok nut and wants to turn the entire caliper spindle... trial and error will get the caliper centered quicker, IMO

i've watched someone use wooden door/window carpenter wedges to center the caliper, then loosened/snugged the back nut down... it took a few tries that way too...

and then.. there's the Third Hand Tool... not economical for home repairs, usually.. the cheap spring ones don't work well, and the Park Version likes to slip off at the worst times, do a half spin with a twist,, and land on my big toe... ouch!
I mostly use it on Center pull brakes when setting centering and cable length..... the BMX "under the chainstays" versions most recently.

here's the toe killer.. Park doesn't have them on their web catalog now.. they have a spring type tho... https://www.ebay.com/itm/19604161819...Bk9SR9Doy4TsYg

No I actually put that there cuz some part in there broke, and that little aluminum cuff there is to big for it fit but fortunately it all currently works.

Thanks. I'll keep this in mind for future reference

This is my expertise

Are you referring to that lever i got the zip tie around? If so it is broken hence the zip tie. I don't even know what it's for. I figured to give the cable slack or something?

Manual? IDK really know about this bike. It's a "Fuji Royale". But I think it's like ancient. First road bike ever. I really like it. Had to put the cruiser bars on in place of the drop downs though for my comfort. With my basket on the back I feel like the wicked witch of the west. It's fun, and my fastest bike. Just requires smooth road so now it's for mostly grocery store shopping down the street. I use my mountain bike and recumbent(Cannondale Bent 2) for all other comfortable riding purposes

I work on this gear every week. First off, the ferrule is not seated in the barrel adjuster. This has to be fixed, perhaps this setup doesn't need a ferrule. This configuration may cause the cable to be rubbing against the metal edges of either the ferrule or the adjuster, eventually causing it to fail/snap. Then: no braking at all.

Second, it looks like the cable tie was installed to prevent the caliper quick-release from falling off the brake. Not good: suggest replace the entire quick release/adjuster.

Nevertheless: the bottom line is that these Dia-Compe brakes from the 70's feature poor mechanical advantage, cheap hardware and weak flexy arms. They were a blight on the bike industry for decades, and with hardened 40-year old pads, they haven't gotten better at braking. We strip these off of bikes at every opportunity and deep-six them into recycling. Brakes are critical to your safety - get rid of these and invest in something better.

nope... Where The Cable Housing Enters the ADJUSTER.. the cable housing end cap is either broken, or is not seated into the adjuster...

The Lever that is Zip tied into place is a CAM used to open the brake up and let the tire slip out or in between the pads when removing/Installing the wheel and tire.

many, if not ALL, of those DiaCompe brakes do use adjusters that are too small to fit an end cap into... good catch.

and +1 on the "they Suck" message.

this is the brake quick release that allows you to open the brake calipers to remove the wheel.

this is super basic.

Thanks. What's the "adjuster" exactly and what does it adjust?

The Hozan Fourth Hand is infinitely better than the Park (or the Pedro's), and at $20, is definitely economical for home repairs. And works better than any third-hand gizmo. And--coincidentally--it works great tightening zip-ties, too!

The lever is to open the calipers further to provide clearance when you need to remove the wheel; the threaded adjuster is to adjust cable tension without having to loosen the cable anchor, e.g. to take up slack as the cable and housing settle into place..

if you want to do bike repair, then you should figure out the obvious by yourself.