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Very bad BB problem. seized and broken teeth.

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Very bad BB problem. seized and broken teeth.

Old 11-18-23, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Jtnb1972
Originally Posted by Mr. 66
I would clamp the tool in and try the correct rotation
...from your photos, it looks like there are still some remnants of the original teeth, and you sheared off the tops of them.
The first think I would try, would be a combination of heating the BB on that side with a plumber's torch, and cooling it with Freeze off.

A couple of cycles of heating and cooling should at least break free any corrosive bonding in the threads. And he Freeze off contains a penetrating oil as well. It's flammable, so don't ignite the spray can. But don't worry if some of it flames off after the first cycle, when you heat for the second cycle.

Then, you need to buy a metric bolt at the hardware store, that has the same diameter and threading as the crank bolt. Take one along with you to match it up, and take along your tool. The bolt needs to be long enough to extend fom the end of the tool and reach in far enough to screw into the BB spindle. But it needs to be short enough that you can take up the excess length with a stack of fender washers, if it bottoms out before the tool is tight against the cup. So you also need to buy some wide fender washers, maybe 5 or 6, that will fit on the bolt.

After the heating and cooling, bolt the Shimano tool in place...firmly if you already have the other side removed. It needs to be locked down pretty tight, because you don't have much left in the way of teeth. Use a Crescent wrench on the outside of the square shaft of the Shimano tool, to turn it the correct way this time. I'm pretty sure this will work. If not, report back and get instructions on destructive removal, which is a lot more work and cursing.
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Old 11-18-23, 12:17 PM
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Excellent! Thank you. It'll be this coming week that I'm with the bike, Will report back!
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Old 11-18-23, 12:18 PM
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Just to be clear, this is AFTER I drive out the spindle...
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Old 11-18-23, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Jtnb1972
Just to be clear, this is AFTER I drive out the spindle...
...no. If you drive out the spindle, you won't have anything to bolt to, with the special bolt and fender washers you bought at the hardware store.
If the spindle is gone, you need a longer bolt, that goes all the way from the outside end of the Shimao tool, to out past the other side of the BB shell.

Then you use fender washers on both sides, and a nut on the end of the bolt, to clamp the tool in place.

All of this is to just firmly hold that Shimano tool to the cup. Otherwise, they have a tendency to jump out when you apply torque, even with all the teeth remaining.
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Old 11-18-23, 12:48 PM
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Old 11-18-23, 12:50 PM
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Old 11-19-23, 02:36 PM
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Standing water above the BB and those rust bubbles on the bottom tube - not good....
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Old 11-20-23, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by veganbikes
Huge +1 on the turning of the tool. Also something that can help before it is stripped out is an impact gun, I wouldn't use it for a tightening role and wouldn't use it too often for loosening but it can really help on those tough ones. Most people probably would abuse it so be wise it is not really a bicycle tool but can be really helpful in these small instances and then for the future put plenty of grease in there.
I always thought they were just for cars, but I recently stripped an old bike and found the rattle gun invaluable for removing the fixed cup and crank bolts - you can use it with the bike held in a regular work stand, and you can easily hold the tool in place with little risk of it falling off. As for grease, on this bike someone had applied liberal amounts of sticky white goop that had solidified, I think that's why I had to use the impact driver.
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Old 11-21-23, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by oneclick
Standing water above the BB and those rust bubbles on the bottom tube - not good....
That right there ^. I'd stop working right now.
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Old 11-21-23, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by grumpus
I always thought they were just for cars, but I recently stripped an old bike and found the rattle gun invaluable for removing the fixed cup and crank bolts - you can use it with the bike held in a regular work stand, and you can easily hold the tool in place with little risk of it falling off. As for grease, on this bike someone had applied liberal amounts of sticky white goop that had solidified, I think that's why I had to use the impact driver.
They kind of are but in the right hands with someone with some knowledge and smarts to not go using it all the time and not stripping things out or just going crazy with it, it can be quite helpful.

You should remove and reinstall stuff every so often especially on a used bike of unknown origins with a bike you build yourself you know how you did things and can get a better sense but waiting to take of a bottom bracket or seat post or something can be quite bad if that person didn't install correctly.
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Old 11-21-23, 01:20 PM
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If you can't eventually get that bottom bracket out with a tool and it is definitely, for sure stuck, here's how I got out of the same situation.
A few years ago, I was in the same boat. Rusted in place bottom bracket that all of the teeth stripped out of it (and yes, I was turning it the correct direction). It was an early cartridge BB, UN60 if memory serves. I was able to get the spindle and all of the bearings out with a combination of a drill and hammer. using the drill to tear up the bearing cage and the hammer to force the spindle out. I probably used a skinny screwdriver to get all of the ball bearing to one side. Once the spindle and balls were out and I was left with just the outer shell, I went to town VERY CAREFULLY with a dremel with a cutoff wheel. It took a while, but enough creative cutting into the shell and breaking off chunks at a time got it all out. Wasn't a pretty process but no damage to the outside of the frame and only nicked the BB threads a few times. Chased the threads and it was good to go.
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Old 11-21-23, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by grumpus
I always thought they were just for cars, but I recently stripped an old bike and found the rattle gun invaluable for removing the fixed cup and crank bolts - you can use it with the bike held in a regular work stand, and you can easily hold the tool in place with little risk of it falling off. As for grease, on this bike someone had applied liberal amounts of sticky white goop that had solidified, I think that's why I had to use the impact driver.
i "rattle gun" shimano splined freewheels loose regularly...birrRip! off they come... no sweat, no bench vice, no strained tendons...
let the freewheel spin to a stop on it's own....
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Old 11-21-23, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Jtnb1972
Excellent! Thank you. It'll be this coming week that I'm with the bike, Will report back!
The square taper crank bolts are 8 x 1.25mm threads.... whether they are internal or external.
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Old 11-21-23, 04:23 PM
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stuck BB/

had the same issue.resorted to an older park bbt-22 & pedros tool holder.

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Old 11-21-23, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Jtnb1972
https://www.bikeforums.net/g/user/548708/photos

Photos in this album.

I think the original diagnosis is right: turned the cup the wrong way. Sheared off the teeth. So now what?
Press the axle out of the bearing (or axle and bearing out of the cup - doesn't matter which). If you don't have access to a press just support the NDS shell on a wood block with a through hole, and pound on the axle from the drive side with a large hammer. Then you can put a large bolt through the hole and screw its nut on tight - tightening the nut/bolt will loosen the left-handed cup.
Alternatively weld the axle to the cup, and use a steel crank to turn the axle.
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Old 11-21-23, 06:11 PM
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Propane torch to heat the bottom bracket shell. Since you already have rust under the paint, charring that area isn't a big deal.

The key is to heat the entire BB shell as evenly as you can, without getting any really hot spots concentrated in one area.

Be careful. The paint will smoke as it burns. The grease may also smoke somewhat.

Don't overdo it. The idea is to make the BB shell expand without putting in enough heat to make the BB itself swell.
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Old 11-25-23, 07:16 AM
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This was the trick! $2.69 from the hardware store, 8x1.25 bolt. Washers. No heat required.

I feel pretty foolish. Long and varied mechanical background and I was turning THE WRONG WAY.

Turns out no mater how hard you turn something the wrong way, it doesn't get any looser.

Thank you all for the help! I am back in action!
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Old 11-25-23, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Jtnb1972
This was the trick! $2.69 from the hardware store, 8x1.25 bolt. Washers. No heat required.

I feel pretty foolish. Long and varied mechanical background and I was turning THE WRONG WAY.

Turns out no mater how hard you turn something the wrong way, it doesn't get any looser.

Thank you all for the help! I am back in action!
I keep the bolt with the tool, so I always have it.
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