What Do I Do With Replacement Crank Set Grease Balls?
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Sounds like maybe it wasn’t screwed in far enough? Which might mean you can get hold of some threading further in. Did you unwind the extractor bolt all the way at the start?
I’m slightly confused - the bike is old enough to have worn out the chainrings and the arm to have seized on to the crank spindle but too new to be in a database?
what are you trying to get from the database? Details of which bottom bracket it uses? Don’t know if you’re going to be able to remove that with the arm still in the way.
I’m slightly confused - the bike is old enough to have worn out the chainrings and the arm to have seized on to the crank spindle but too new to be in a database?
what are you trying to get from the database? Details of which bottom bracket it uses? Don’t know if you’re going to be able to remove that with the arm still in the way.
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When I was using a puller to pull the old arms off, one came off fine, but with the other one, the puller pulled out and stripped the threads on the arm(but the puller is OK, it screws in to the other arm). Is there anything I can do besides get a new crankshaft? I'll have to pull out the crankshaft and see whats engraved on it to help me find a new one. What specs to I need to know? Is it possible to get just the shaft without any of the other hardware? The bike is a Schwinn Sidewinder.
Edit: I don't think it'll help because my bike is too new to be in a database, but here's the serial number: SNMNG11A9137. None of you are nerdy enough to be able decode the serial number are you? I think I found Schwinn's code book, but my serial number is too new to be in it.😥
Why does the post I made after this one need to be approved by a moderator?
Edit: I don't think it'll help because my bike is too new to be in a database, but here's the serial number: SNMNG11A9137. None of you are nerdy enough to be able decode the serial number are you? I think I found Schwinn's code book, but my serial number is too new to be in it.😥
Why does the post I made after this one need to be approved by a moderator?
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#54
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When I was using a puller to pull the old arms off, one came off fine, but with the other one, the puller pulled out and stripped the threads on the arm(but the puller is OK, it screws in to the other arm). Is there anything I can do besides get a new crankshaft? I'll have to pull out the crankshaft and see whats engraved on it to help me find a new one. What specs to I need to know? Is it possible to get just the shaft without any of the other hardware? The bike is a Schwinn Sidewinder.
Edit: I don't think it'll help because my bike is too new to be in a database, but here's the serial number: SNMNG11A9137. None of you are nerdy enough to be able decode the serial number are you? I think I found Schwinn's code book, but my serial number is too new to be in it.😥
Why does the post I made after this one need to be approved by a moderator?
Edit: I don't think it'll help because my bike is too new to be in a database, but here's the serial number: SNMNG11A9137. None of you are nerdy enough to be able decode the serial number are you? I think I found Schwinn's code book, but my serial number is too new to be in it.😥
Why does the post I made after this one need to be approved by a moderator?
A Schwinn Sidewinder, like all bikes made by Pacific Cycles is made to a price point. Unfortunately this also means pot metal, low manufacturing tolerances, and lack of grease throughout. A trifecta for problems. Fortunately, this also means that repair items are cheap, if you can steel yourself against all the hassle. Any bike shop will have a small selection of replacement crank arms hanging on a hook in the back room for situations like yours. Expect $15-30 or so.
As far as removing the stuck on arm, I've decided that the most effective method for removal is simply a hack saw with a good sharp blade. The aluminum, especially the low grade stuff gives way quite readily and it's about a 15 minute job to cut down in line coaxial with the spindle and along the taper. When your arm gets tired drive in a wedge to break off the rest of the uncut remaining at the fat end of the base. Then lever the arm off the spindle sideways. With only 3 of the four sides remaining with the spindle, the crank arm levers off quite easily.
Last edited by base2; 03-02-24 at 09:52 AM.
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Many people have stripped threads with a crank extractor as a consequence of forgetting to remove the crank bolt washer before threading in the extractor.
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#57
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suggested that it happened because the arm is made of aluminum.
If I had to get a a new crankshaft, maybe that would help with identifying the specs for it.
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#61
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A Schwinn Sidewinder, like all bikes made by Pacific Cycles is made to a price point. Unfortunately this also means pot metal, low manufacturing tolerances, and lack of grease throughout. A trifecta for problems. Fortunately, this also means that repair items are cheap, if you can steel yourself against all the hassle. Any bike shop will have a small selection of replacement crank arms hanging on a hook in the back room for situations like yours. Expect $15-30 or so.
As far as removing the stuck on arm, I've decided that the most effective method for removal is simply a hack saw with a good sharp blade. The aluminum, especially the low grade stuff gives way quite readily and it's about a 15 minute job to cut down in line coaxial with the spindle and along the taper. When your arm gets tired drive in a wedge to break off the rest of the uncut remaining at the fat end of the base. Then lever the arm off the spindle sideways. With only 3 of the four sides remaining with the spindle, the crank arm levers off quite easily.
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The Titan Sub was a hack job by an idiot using expired carbon fiber in initial construction in compression the way that it is weakest with no initial or subsequent testing. Per his life wishes, he is now known for all the rules he's broken. Just the way he wanted. (It's a shame about the kid tho.)
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Heat88
just loosent the bolt, ride around the block 2-3 times and when you come back the arm should be loose enough to pull off easily
/markp
just loosent the bolt, ride around the block 2-3 times and when you come back the arm should be loose enough to pull off easily
/markp
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I don't understand why anybody still has to do anything experimental with the basic design of deep sea subs anymore. Somebody figured it out 64 years ago when they built one that was able to go down to the Mariana Trench which is the deepest place in all of the oceans and 3 times deeper than where the Titanic is. There should be deep sea tours by now.
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Your response leads me to believe you didn't tighten it with a wrench, which will lead to the threads being unevenly loaded so they tear out one at a time, kind of like breaking a stack of spaced boards with a karate chop.
In the decades that I have been a mechanic, I only damaged one crank with a puller - when I didn't tighten it down with a wrench. That was in 1990.
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I don't understand why anybody still has to do anything experimental with the basic design of deep sea subs anymore. Somebody figured it out 64 years ago when they built one that was able to go down to the Mariana Trench which is the deepest place in all of the oceans and 3 times deeper than where the Titanic is. There should be deep sea tours by now.
I was fortunate enough to be assigned to repair this thing on the ship that carries Alvin. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HMSkEz...ature=youtu.be
The problem is the way the forces scale. There is zero original components on this thing and it has been rebuilt a couple of times over. Here is a good history: https://www.whoi.edu/what-we-do/expl...tory-of-alvin/
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I already found this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjI5eDPjS6o
Search on the site about using a "pickle fork" or a set of 'jacob's wedges". We have used both methods in our shop with great success and requires minimal effort.
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#71
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Virtually all square taper cranks have aluminum threads. But it isn't a question of far enough, but tightening torque so all the threads share the load.
Your response leads me to believe you didn't tighten it with a wrench, which will lead to the threads being unevenly loaded so they tear out one at a time, kind of like breaking a stack of spaced boards with a karate chop.
In the decades that I have been a mechanic, I only damaged one crank with a puller - when I didn't tighten it down with a wrench. That was in 1990.
Your response leads me to believe you didn't tighten it with a wrench, which will lead to the threads being unevenly loaded so they tear out one at a time, kind of like breaking a stack of spaced boards with a karate chop.
In the decades that I have been a mechanic, I only damaged one crank with a puller - when I didn't tighten it down with a wrench. That was in 1990.
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My guess, in the absence of clarification, is that he threaded the puller in by hand and then used the Crescent wrench to turn the puller's thrust bolt, inadvertently stripping the crank's threads.
That, or he accidentally cross-threaded the crank's threads when he threaded in the puller.
Or a previous removal attempt left the crank arm threads in a damaged state.
Can't think of any other possibilities offhand.
That, or he accidentally cross-threaded the crank's threads when he threaded in the puller.
Or a previous removal attempt left the crank arm threads in a damaged state.
Can't think of any other possibilities offhand.
#74
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My guess, in the absence of clarification, is that he threaded the puller in by hand and then used the Crescent wrench to turn the puller's thrust bolt, inadvertently stripping the crank's threads.
That, or he accidentally cross-threaded the crank's threads when he threaded in the puller.
Or a previous removal attempt left the crank arm threads in a damaged state.
Can't think of any other possibilities offhand.
That, or he accidentally cross-threaded the crank's threads when he threaded in the puller.
Or a previous removal attempt left the crank arm threads in a damaged state.
Can't think of any other possibilities offhand.
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The thrust bolt is the other half of the extractor tool. It's the inner part you turn to actually push against the spindle to force the crank off.