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Dropper Post vs No Dropper Post?

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Dropper Post vs No Dropper Post?

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Old 04-10-25 | 10:42 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by mkane
Neither is a $400 seat post that fails in 3 years.
That’s like saying you would run rigid forks because your shock failed after x years. Sounds like you bought the wrong seatpost or just bad luck. Sometimes things break, even rigid seatposts.
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Old 04-10-25 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve B.
Don’t make that assumption, I watched a bunch of YT’s to find out how and where to use it, I found it fascinating to learn folks would lower the seat thru turns to lower center of gravity, aiding tire grip. That made sense so I gave that multiple tries. Our local trails tend to have a ton of twisty and tight single track, so it seems that would be a good place to try this. What I discovered was the seat was going up and down, up and down as I was finding I wanted the seat back up at height to be able to more efficiently pedal coming out of turns, then I needed to drop again for more twisty, then up again and after a few try’s at this found the whole thing annoying. It wasn’t improving my handling at all as I was just distracted trying to get the seat lowered and then back up again. And as stated prior, we have short and few hills, so no need to use on downhills,

Off it came.
After a while it becomes second nature, just like shifting gears. When I first started using a dropper post we were still in the 3x drivetrain era, so the lever position was a bit awkward next to the left hand shifter. With a modern 1x drivetrain, it’s much easier to set up with the dropper lever on the left and gear shifters on the right.

FWIW my technique for tight, twisty singletrack segments is to lower the saddle about 2” where I can still pedal pretty well. I only fully drop it for steep or long descents and fully extend for climbing or non-technical flats.
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Old 04-10-25 | 11:17 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by mkane
Neither is a $400 seat post that fails in 3 years.

A hite- rite lasts and lasts & lasts.
I'll pay more money for having instant activation at the push of a lever while both my hands are still on the bars.
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Old 04-10-25 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mkane
Neither is a $400 seat post that fails in 3 years.

A hite- rite lasts and lasts & lasts.
One doesn't even need to spend $400 to get a good post anymore. I recently purchased the One Up V3 post for $270...and the V3 is one of the best performing posts out right now IMO. I'm not too worried about longevity...the post is easily rebuild-able, although I don't plan on having to do that anytime soon. Until recently, I had a bike with a 6 year old post that was still working flawlessly. I sold the bike, but it's still going strong for the new owner.

Comparing it to a Hite-Rite, what's the travel on one of them? 4.5 to 5.5"...or about 115mm to 140mm? Even my FS XC bike runs an 180mm post. I upsized the post on my longer travel all-mountain bike to a 210mm post. Both trails and race courses have gotten more technical/difficult, so the greater travel seatposts are a benefit.

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Old 04-10-25 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by PeteHski
After a while it becomes second nature, just like shifting gears. When I first started using a dropper post we were still in the 3x drivetrain era, so the lever position was a bit awkward next to the left hand shifter. With a modern 1x drivetrain, it’s much easier to set up with the dropper lever on the left and gear shifters on the right.

FWIW my technique for tight, twisty singletrack segments is to lower the saddle about 2” where I can still pedal pretty well. I only fully drop it for steep or long descents and fully extend for climbing or non-technical flats.
For years I raced XC on a rigid post, but recreationally rode on an enduro bike with a dropper. My enduro terrain pretty much dictates the use of a dropper, but I didn't need a dropper for XC. I finally switched to an XC bike with a dropper last year, and now I realized what I've been missing. Now, I'm activating the dropper multiple times a lap...being an infinitely adjustable post, I don't even have to get it all the way down. Besides dropping it for descents, I'll use it frequently for corners...basically allows me to lean the bike deep into a turn, while in a standing position, and not have interference with the seat.

Using the dropper for XC has totally become 2nd nature. Like you said, the prevalence of 1x drivetrains has totally cleaned up the bars. The dropper lever is no longer an afterthought, it's easily reached without changing your hand position.
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Old 04-10-25 | 03:29 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by PeteHski
By dropping your centre of gravity 6”, you improve cornering grip.

Your old-school butt-out-the-back descending technique is what modern mtb geometry and dropper posts have pretty much eliminated. Can’t say I miss those days, but I moved on and never looked back.

Having said this, just riding around mild flat-ish terrain doesn’t require a dropper. But once you start riding down steep descents it’s a whole lot better and way more convenient than messing with a QR.

Dropper posts are NOT Kool Aid! They are not some kind of fad.

Edit: I forgot to mention earlier, the taller you are, the more benefit you get from a dropper post. At 6’ 1” with long legs, my saddle was always much higher than I would prefer for even mild descents.
Also 6’1”. Formerly 1.5” taller when mtbing. A dropper post sure beat bouncing my rear off the rear tire on occasion. Started mtbing prior to suspension, and every advancement was very weicome, especially droppers.
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Old 04-19-25 | 03:02 AM
  #32  
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There are a lot of arguments for the usefulness of a dropper post and I think it is worth having one, as it offers safety, comfort and handling. Thank you!
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Old 04-20-25 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by CyclingMTB
Greetings everyone! How important would you say dropper post is? Do you think it's a must have on a bicycle or you think you can it's possible to ride a bicycle in rough terrain even without a dropper post? Also, in the case I don't have a dropper post, if I adjust the saddle height very often during a day in the case I encounter different types of terrains or a succession of hills and valleys, would the friction force between the rod of the saddle and the seat tube damage the seat tube over time ?
Yes, friction from dirt and muck on the post will wear the tubes over time when frequently raising and lowering. There is also a specific torque value for the clamp, hard to do when fatigued on a trail.

Steep descent without a dropper requires moving behind the saddle, but new bikes have a longer front center so they require a dropper to get low.

Without a dropper one needs to run the seat an inch or so lower than is optimal for pedaling power in order to be balanced in varying off road conditions. With a dropper, when things get weird the seat is quickly moved out of the way. But you still get full leg extension when it is up.

The bunny hop is important to learn, and that is best done with the seat down.


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