Front derailer not moving
#27
Mad bike riding scientist




Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 29,184
Likes: 6,263
From: Denver, CO
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones

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Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#29
Newbie
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Reroute cable
Remove the derailleur cable and try to shift, if it moves freely then reinstall the cable without wrapping it over the top. Go from the bottom and make it a down pull instead of a top pull. When in #1, the cable should not be tight, there should be a little looseness. Try rerouting the cable first, I’ve found this to be an issue on many bikes; you’re essentially making it an up pull vs down pull. That should work.
#30
Senior Member




Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,465
Likes: 3,281
From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
Remove the derailleur cable and try to shift, if it moves freely then reinstall the cable without wrapping it over the top. Go from the bottom and make it a down pull instead of a top pull. When in #1, the cable should not be tight, there should be a little looseness. Try rerouting the cable first, I’ve found this to be an issue on many bikes; you’re essentially making it an up pull vs down pull. That should work.
#31
Newbie
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Remove the cable
It may not work but remove the cable and then try to shift, you’ll find out if it’s corrosion. If the limit screws are not set correctly, it may move a little, but looking at the pictures they are already turned out quite a bit. He can screw the low in and move the derailleur to 2nd gear and not have 1. Reconnect the cable and then you might get 2 and 3. Whoever said it will NOT work, have you tried it?
#32
Senior Member




Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,465
Likes: 3,281
From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
It may not work but remove the cable and then try to shift, you’ll find out if it’s corrosion. If the limit screws are not set correctly, it may move a little, but looking at the pictures they are already turned out quite a bit. He can screw the low in and move the derailleur to 2nd gear and not have 1. Reconnect the cable and then you might get 2 and 3. Whoever said it will NOT work, have you tried it?
you then post again to describe some oddball "fix" that isn't needed.... by eliminating access to low gear...
you really need to at least TRY to know what you're talking about.
wow.
Last edited by maddog34; 05-06-25 at 06:05 PM.
#33
Newbie
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Sorry maddog34
You can insult my intelligence and I’ll respect that, it if they look at YOUR screen name in reverse that’s ok with the administrators. I’m not throwing an insult, but, maddog34 is 43goddam???? I guess that’s fine. I’ll just read posts and not respond. Again, my apologies.
#34
You can insult my intelligence and I’ll respect that, it if they look at YOUR screen name in reverse that’s ok with the administrators. I’m not throwing an insult, but, maddog34 is 43goddam???? I guess that’s fine. I’ll just read posts and not respond. Again, my apologies.
#35
Clark W. Griswold




Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 18,379
Likes: 6,707
From: ,location, location
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
You can insult my intelligence and I’ll respect that, it if they look at YOUR screen name in reverse that’s ok with the administrators. I’m not throwing an insult, but, maddog34 is 43goddam???? I guess that’s fine. I’ll just read posts and not respond. Again, my apologies.
#36
Senior Member




Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,465
Likes: 3,281
From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
Just fyi "dam" is a structure to hold back water, the barely naughty word you are referring to is "damn" as in the famous Adm. David Farragut line "Damn the torpedos, full speed ahead" said during the battle of Mobile. If Mad Dog wasn't a common enough phrase I might barely buy your idea there but since mad dog is not uncommon and 34 is just a number and 43 has no real significance generally I don't think your thing really holds much of a candle.
Walter Payton inspired me to choose that number.. He kept the Chicago Bears moving forward, no matter what.
the Maddog nickname was earned, and goes back to my days riding with The Kossacks (patched over by the Gypsy Jokers long ago).

the original reply was either removed, or replaced with that post.
it was not nice at all, and violated the BF TOU multiple times.
it seems alex8627 has got his bike working.. that's a good thing... i hope he's found that mid ring adjustment is controlled by the initial cable setting, and nothing else... that's always a guess at best, eh? I find a bit of initial cable looseness when the shifter is in "1" is the typical outcome to get :"2" to work well with limited or no cage rub... like "1", FD position "3" is once again governed by it's limit screw.
Last edited by maddog34; 05-07-25 at 08:07 PM.
#37
Clark W. Griswold




Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 18,379
Likes: 6,707
From: ,location, location
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Ahhh makes sense. Did not take you for a 1%er unless you are.reffering to the Slavic Christian warriors but the GJ reference kind of quashes that. I missed the original post but people do get bent out of shape sometimes.
#38
Senior Member




Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,465
Likes: 3,281
From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike

they tried prospecting me.. i said no.
#39
Clark W. Griswold




Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 18,379
Likes: 6,707
From: ,location, location
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26





