Rear Shifting Problem.
#1
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Joined: Aug 2022
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Rear Shifting Problem.
I'm vexxed. I'm working on an older bike with friction shifters and derailleurs, circa 1980s. (OK, itsa Trek.) The derailleur mounts directly into the dropout without a separate hanger like you see on cheaper bikes. When I shift the rear derailleur to the low cog--the LARGE one on the inside, it shifts UP fine. But when I want to shift it DOWN one gear to the second largest cog, it hangs up.
I tried a different derailleur. I took out a link from the chain. I adjusted the angle of the dangle. I adjusted the inside limiter so that it just doesn't go to the largest cog, and it works fine. It is just that large cog. It has 28 teeth. I have not tried a long cage derailleur. But I am not hopeful about that. I have never seen this before after working on dozens of bikes with all sorts of configurations. I'm out of ideas.
I'm hesitant to take it to a shop, because I am not confident that the mechanics have much experience with older machinery. So...??
Saul
I tried a different derailleur. I took out a link from the chain. I adjusted the angle of the dangle. I adjusted the inside limiter so that it just doesn't go to the largest cog, and it works fine. It is just that large cog. It has 28 teeth. I have not tried a long cage derailleur. But I am not hopeful about that. I have never seen this before after working on dozens of bikes with all sorts of configurations. I'm out of ideas.
I'm hesitant to take it to a shop, because I am not confident that the mechanics have much experience with older machinery. So...??
Saul
#3
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 19,359
Likes: 5,492
From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
The first thing I suspect is that the guide pulley (the top one) is hanging up on that biggest cog. If there's not enough "B" gap (space between large cog and guide pulley) to let the chain lift off the cog's teeth during a shift the chain will act as a sandwich or splint trapping the two together.
The first ways to avoid this is with components that are meant to work together. Like a rear der whose large cog capacity is the same or greater that the large cog of the set. sounds like this isn't the case... is it?
A few points-
When shortening the chain make sure you can still shift into the big/big cog/ring combo. Serious damage can happen if the chain was found to be too short and you forgot to not shift into the big/big.
A long cage rear der might not have a claimed largest rear cog size greater than it's short cage sibling. Shimano road ders on the early/mid 1990s, when they offered SS or GS cage lengths of their 105, 600 and DA models, had the same 27 tooth max cog limit. The long cage only increased the chain wrap/take up spec.
When exceeding the chain wrap capacity, it's usually "safer" to have a slightly too long chain that droops on the small/small combo than a too short chain.
Make sure any der pivot springs are working. Some ders have both the B and the A (B is the hanger axis pivot and A the cage's) sprung, some only the A pivot is sprung.
If only tiny amounts of B gap are needed more one might see if the guide pulley could be replaced with a smaller diameter version. Andy
The first ways to avoid this is with components that are meant to work together. Like a rear der whose large cog capacity is the same or greater that the large cog of the set. sounds like this isn't the case... is it?
A few points-
When shortening the chain make sure you can still shift into the big/big cog/ring combo. Serious damage can happen if the chain was found to be too short and you forgot to not shift into the big/big.
A long cage rear der might not have a claimed largest rear cog size greater than it's short cage sibling. Shimano road ders on the early/mid 1990s, when they offered SS or GS cage lengths of their 105, 600 and DA models, had the same 27 tooth max cog limit. The long cage only increased the chain wrap/take up spec.
When exceeding the chain wrap capacity, it's usually "safer" to have a slightly too long chain that droops on the small/small combo than a too short chain.
Make sure any der pivot springs are working. Some ders have both the B and the A (B is the hanger axis pivot and A the cage's) sprung, some only the A pivot is sprung.
If only tiny amounts of B gap are needed more one might see if the guide pulley could be replaced with a smaller diameter version. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#4
I'm vexxed. I'm working on an older bike with friction shifters and derailleurs, circa 1980s. (OK, itsa Trek.) The derailleur mounts directly into the dropout without a separate hanger like you see on cheaper bikes. When I shift the rear derailleur to the low cog--the LARGE one on the inside, it shifts UP fine. But when I want to shift it DOWN one gear to the second largest cog, it hangs up.
(Shifting from the largest freewheel sprocket to a smaller one is "shifting up" - the direction refers to the drive ratio, not the height of the sprocket.)
One possible cause of your shifting problem is that the sprocket is slightly too large for the derailleur - is the top pulley very close to the large sprocket? Some older derailleurs were only officially rated to handle a 25 tooth freewheel. Aggravating factors could be short chain, dragging cable, sticky pivots on the derailleur or weak return spring. Clean and lube everything and see what happens.
#6
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,988
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From: Boulder County, CO
Bikes: '80 Masi Gran Criterium, '12 Trek Madone, early '60s Frejus track
I've been fixing bikes since 1971, but I have to tell you I have no idea what your problem is until you provide a better description of what you're using and the problem, or post a video or some photoes.
#9
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,447
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#10
#11
Senior Member



Joined: Jul 2023
Posts: 2,009
Likes: 1,243
From: "Driftless" WI
Bikes: 1972 Motobecane Grand Record, 2023 Specialized Tarmac SL7,'26 Spesh Diverge, '22 Kona Dew+
As others have suggested, a pic or two would provide more to diagnose.
On my '72 MotoGR, going from a 28 in back to a 32 or 34 cog proved the limitations of the original Campy DR. So I found a 'donor' Fuji off which I borrowed its Suntour V-GT Luxe. That worked fine with the larger cog in back. Even with that though I got smoother shifting after I added a WolfTooth aluminum hanger & messed a little with the pesky B-Screw setting and chain length.
On my '72 MotoGR, going from a 28 in back to a 32 or 34 cog proved the limitations of the original Campy DR. So I found a 'donor' Fuji off which I borrowed its Suntour V-GT Luxe. That worked fine with the larger cog in back. Even with that though I got smoother shifting after I added a WolfTooth aluminum hanger & messed a little with the pesky B-Screw setting and chain length.






