My bike developed a noise whenever I squeeze the front brake, a clanking noise...

To test where it's coming from, I held the bike is stationary, squeeze the front brake fully, locking the front wheel. Now I push the bike forward... Clank!

I rock the bike backward and forward, each time when the bike was pushed forward, a "clank"!

That also is how I felt when the bike is moving, at the point when the brake contacts the rim, the "clank" noise is heard and felt. Then the bike slows down. Very disconcerting though with the "jerk" at the beginning of brake application.

I can't see anything moving while I did that. Nothing I can see from the bar, the fork, the brake...

On my way home, I stopped at a bike shop, the shop guy said it's the headset. Does that sound right?

Or, could it be the fork? Brake mount? Any suggestion on identifying which component is the culprit?

Thanks

Hopefully just a headset sealed bearing. Refresh both.
It gets worse from there, like a frame or fork crack. Might as well attack it quickly.

Why don't you believe the shop mechanic? Why didn't you have him fix it instead of continuing to ride on it? It may just need adjustment.

Why? Because the shop has a 3 week wait time for any repairs!

That would means 3 weeks of no riding!

What kind of "adjustment" could be done?

Tighten the headset. Takes 2 minutes.

Straddling the bike with the front brake on, put your other hand on the joint between the fork and steering tube, and rock the bike back and forth. There should not be any play there. If there is play, the headset needs adjustment and maybe service/replacement.

You need to know the type of headset to find the adjustment. Threaded headsets usually require large special wrenches. Non-threaded do not, usually just 4mm and 5 mm Allen keys. Search online.

This method works for rim brakes. For discs, turn the front wheel 90 degrees.

Threadless headset, rim beake

Just checked as instructed, there’s movement in the headset at the top of head tube. So it sounds like it’s the headset that’s making the noise.

This is how the adjustment is done:

Loosen the two (sometimes 1, but not often) bolts on the SIDE of the stem that clamp it to the fork steerer tube.
Do a 1/4 turn on the bolt that is on the TOP of the stem. That bolt is going to provide preload to the bearing.
Hold the front brake and rock the bike again. If it is still loose, repeat the above two steps.

Keep in mind the preload bolt is not to be cranked down. That bolt only provides preload. It does not tighten the stem or anything else.

If the shop is 3 weeks back logged it suggests they are doing a good enough job so that they are somewhat overwhelmed. 3 weeks is about the max shops I've been in have been behind, generally this becomes self correcting. As shown by the OP not leaving their bike for service and as the seasonal demand wears on. However, I'll also add that as a shop wrench I really try to do the one item quick jobs in a few hours at least. This includes flat tires or a single and externally accessed adjustment. Like tightening crank arms, aligning bars with the ft wheel or a headset adjustment. If the shop is embarrassed with how quick a headset adjustment takes VS their service rate amount they should just take the bike in for a couple of hours or at worst overnight. Whatever it takes to get the rider to leave the shop for long enough to do the work without the rider having a reason to question the cost VS time aspect. (Remember, service cost isn't about the time only but also about skills, tools and liability). Andy

I think anyone reticent to pay $10-20 for a two minute adjustment they can't do themselves is a fool. You're not paying for unskilled labor by the hour, but for someone to use their expertise to restore function to your $2000+ bike.

However, it is possible the mechanic didn't offer to adjust right there is that they suspected it isn't just loose but damaged, assembled wrong, etc.

RATS!

Ok... Time to bring out that beater bike ya been neglecting. Hummmm... Dont have one?

Well thats just unamerican. Ya gotta have more than one horse in the stable. Even though ridding that ole horse might just be a real chore... Ha

Fixed!

Followed the Instruction for adjustments, I loosen up the stem, re-adjusted the pre-load with the nut on the top cap, re-tighten the stem. No more movement! It’s that simple.

Looking back, I had changed the stem position a while back (probably last summer). Having done it many times prior without issue, I was less diligent in getting the preloads adjusted as carefully as in previous adjustments. So the headset was left at a bad state. To make matters worse, I also had a front wheel that wasn’t as true as it should have been. So the wheel-brake contact issue masked the headset issue. I thought it was just the wheel. It was only after I fixed the wheel that the noise was isolated.

Thanks for all the help.

You mean masked?

You really should nail this “riding” vs “ridding” thing you still have going on. Especially on a bike forum!

Just trying to help, not ridicule btw.

Maybe he’s trying to dispose of said horse?

He wanted more than just work on the headset. He rattled off a long list of "tune-up" he would do on the bike. (it's an older bike in good working condition but looks beat up... because it's old!)

I would have gladly pay them to adjust or replaced the headset right then and there. Or even bring the bike back when "my turn" is up in 2-3 weeks. But no, they wanted to take my bike hostage for 2-3 weeks.

So instead, I turn to forums like this and got it sorted in ONE WEEK! (really, just one weekend) Thanks for the help.

(I'm handy. So I can pretty much install/replace, or adjust most things. If I know what needs to be done, that is. But unlike a shop mechanics, I don't spend everyday working on different bikes with different problems. So my diagnostic skill isn't half as good as the shop guy. I'm willing to pay for their experience. However, if they're too busy, or worse too jaded to work on my bike for one item without me dropping half a grand for a full "tune up", they won't get my business!)

I expect your version of "good working condition" does not coincide with a professional mechanic's opinion - your old and beat-up brakes could have worked fine for years but are about to fail, your transmission is probably pretty nasty - all "still working", probably somewhat sub-optimally.

Ha... Thank You. Yep, its my life long handicap. They say some how my brain is not wired for spelling, in English, Spanish, writing or typing. I just dont see the misspelled words. Thank God for spell checkers. Back in the day I really was dependent on my friendly peers who would go over my documents and help me make corrections before turning them in. They never laughed. Of course that might have been pity. Somehow I have had both a Military and Medical Professional career. Of course that too could be in a since Artificial Intelligence. Adapt, Overcome, Improvise, its kinda of my mantra...

probably true.

but as I’m not racing “it”, so what if the bike works “sub-optimally”?

Depends how steep your descents are

It can be harder and less pleasant to ride, possibly less safe. You may not notice because it has happened slowly, but you might be pleasantly surprised by how much better it can be; or you might just think mechanics upsell stuff you don't need.
As a mostly utility cyclist I'm a lot less fussy about the bikes I use than when I used to ride many miles and time trials, and I "fix it when it's bad enough" rather than keeping everything finely tuned all the time. But anything making the wrong sort of noise, or not doing what I tell it to do when I tell it to do it, does detract from the riding experience.

All that could all be true. But it still don't change the fact that I don't much care!

The truth is, I do notice the difference, not "surprised", pleasantly or not. It's just I don't care if the bike works perfectly or not. Kind of like our cars, it gets me from point A to point B. But does it ride nice or not? Couldn't care less! A bike gets me outside, riding. But how well the bike rides? Could care less.

Exactly!

As any "used to be" racer (or even just serious cyclist) knows, there're race bike or event bike. Then, there're "training" bikes!

Which gets the best care and best components? You guessed it. NOT the "training bike"!

I have several bikes. Each and every one of them were once "top of line" and in perfect working condition. But the majority of them aren't in such condition any more. (nor are they "top of line" obviously). They become commute bike, guest bike, beater bikes, you name it! Do I care if they're in working condition? Yes, but only to the point for safety of myself and my guests. (and I do use them for their intended purposes)

But do I care they're in "perfect" working condition? Not exactly. They got taken out in winter, in rainy days. So who cares if components are a bit worn??? Frankly, I'm NOT replacing components that are only part way through their intend life cycle, or even a bit past it some of the time!

The shop wasn't so much trying to "up sell" on services. They just had the wrong assumption that my bike is the one and only that I ride all the time. And that I give a passing thought on how well they ride! But on the other hand, if it's my one and only bike, how could they expect me to leave it for 3 weeks??? So the two assumptions they made about my bike simply contradicts one another. They simply lose my business. (come to think of it, they probably assumed I haven't started the riding season yet. Hence the 3 weeks without my primary training bike was of no concern to their line of thinking)