Cable Ferrule Issues
11-16-25 | 09:11 PM
#26
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,232
Likes: 989
From: Chicago area
Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"
11-17-25 | 08:35 AM
#27
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,352
Likes: 1,635
From: San Diego, CA
I’ve used a zip tie with good results, but to be frank modern cable housing is too inflexible to work very well on vintage bikes, at least not between chainstay and rear derailleur. I typically use the old style flexible coiled wire housing at that point. It solves the problem but does not measurably hurt shifting precision.
11-17-25 | 12:16 PM
#28
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,262
Likes: 3,151
From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
modern multi-strand type "compressionless" housing loves to internally shift around when curved sharply, and strands sometimes begin to protrude, jamming cable movement through the stops.
this was not an issue with coiled wire housings, but those have a problem after being cut sometimes... before installing the end caps, i use an awl to dress the end of the housings, or even clip away a bent wire that blocks the end.. flush cut side cutters work great for this.
other reasons i awl-dress the strand housings... the strands can become flattened, bunched together, or bent at times.
Dull side cutters can/will cause problems like these.
details matter.
the cables move easily every time, and i don't waste end caps
this was not an issue with coiled wire housings, but those have a problem after being cut sometimes... before installing the end caps, i use an awl to dress the end of the housings, or even clip away a bent wire that blocks the end.. flush cut side cutters work great for this.
other reasons i awl-dress the strand housings... the strands can become flattened, bunched together, or bent at times.
Dull side cutters can/will cause problems like these.
details matter.
the cables move easily every time, and i don't waste end caps
Last edited by maddog34; 11-17-25 at 12:29 PM.
11-17-25 | 09:50 PM
#29
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,232
Likes: 989
From: Chicago area
Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"
...this was not an issue with coiled wire housings, but those have a problem after being cut sometimes... before installing the end caps, i use an awl to dress the end of the housings, or even clip away a bent wire that blocks the end.. flush cut side cutters work great for this.
I do like to finish the ends after cutting the housing with a cable cutter. I have a Park Tools cutter, which leaves a little bit of distorted spiral. About 10 seconds with a Dremel tool fixes this.
11-19-25 | 02:03 PM
#30
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,262
Likes: 3,151
From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
once on spiral housing, once on a SS cable, and once on strand housing.
i went back to the channelock 8" side cutters, now using knipex 8" side cutters.
Last edited by maddog34; 11-19-25 at 02:10 PM.
11-24-25 | 05:56 PM
#32
Wheelman
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 1,625
Likes: 1,581
From: Putney, London UK
Bikes: 1982 Holdsworth Avanti (531), 1961 Holdsworth Cyclone, 1953 Holdsworth Whirlwind
I discovered on my 1982 Holdsworth Avanti that it takes 5mm derailleur cables - SIS was introduced a couple of years later with the funky new Shimano cables.
So I used brake cale with no ferrules.
My latest build (1953 Holdsworth Whirlwind) definitely doesn't need 4mm derailleur cables.
Went with 4.5mm stainless coiled outer + ferrule
vintage cable outer 4.5mm OD - https://www.veloduo.co.uk/products/v...3e363576&_ss=r
ferrules - https://www.veloduo.co.uk/products/f...railleur-cable
.
The 4.5mm OD worked for me to fit a cable stop similar to the one pictured.
So I used brake cale with no ferrules.
My latest build (1953 Holdsworth Whirlwind) definitely doesn't need 4mm derailleur cables.
Went with 4.5mm stainless coiled outer + ferrule
vintage cable outer 4.5mm OD - https://www.veloduo.co.uk/products/v...3e363576&_ss=r
ferrules - https://www.veloduo.co.uk/products/f...railleur-cable
.
plain: 4.5 ID + 5.0 OD to fit vintage Campagnolo Rear Mechs
stepped: 4.5 ID + 5.5 OD to fit brazed on rear derailleur cable stop
.stepped: 4.5 ID + 5.5 OD to fit brazed on rear derailleur cable stop
The 4.5mm OD worked for me to fit a cable stop similar to the one pictured.
11-26-25 | 03:44 PM
#33
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 709
From: Boulder County, CO
Bikes: '80 Masi Gran Criterium, '12 Trek Madone, early '60s Frejus track
The cable stop on my 45 year old Masi takes a ferrule that measures 6mm on the outside, stepping down to 4.5 mm where if fits into the hole. No, you can't have mine.
Using a 4mm shift cable, might these work? https://www.performancebike.com/shim...290030/p631045
Here's another one, 5mm ID stepping down to 4mm ID, but it looks like you have to buy the whole jar. https://www.performancebike.com/jagw...t115-6/p304398
Using a 4mm shift cable, might these work? https://www.performancebike.com/shim...290030/p631045
Here's another one, 5mm ID stepping down to 4mm ID, but it looks like you have to buy the whole jar. https://www.performancebike.com/jagw...t115-6/p304398
Last edited by oldbobcat; 11-26-25 at 03:51 PM.
