I recently purchased a used, older Specialized Allez. It was ‘ridable’ when I got it, but it needed lots of ‘attention’ for my personal liking. And, I’ve already ridden it several times as I get to the various “issues.” One of those issues is that at some point the nickel/brass nipples on the rear wheel have corroded to the point that they’re almost not useable for truing. Probably due to the south Florida salt air. The spokes look like they’re in descent condition. Anyway, I’m thinking about re-nippling it (and re-spoking any if needed), and just wondering if there’s a preferred way that I should go about it. I.e. — just go spoke by spoke as I work radially about the wheel; by laced spoke couples; DS then NDS (or vice verse); etc. FWIW, the rim is a Mavic CXP 21 (622x15), and the hub is a Ritchey on a 2x9 gearing system. And I would do the work on a truing stand. Any suggestions?

Dan

I would loosen all spokes first, then replace the nipples one by one. Then, obviously, retrue and tension the wheel.

Try a drop of triflow where the spoke leaves the nipple, and then loosen the nipple to get more into the threads. Of course, if the nipple rounds off, replace it. Lube each nipple and give it a little time to penetrate the threads, then see if you can loosen each nipple Ľ or ˝ turn. One more drop of triflow after they've been loosened and you should be able to true and tension the wheel without fuss.

I recently had a set of nipples on a 27" wheelset that wouldn't budge, along with a few that had corroded and failed, probably due to road salt. In trying to free a few of the spokes I instead broke them at the nipple. Since I loosened the spokes all the way around, the wheel needed tensioning and dishing after I replaced the broken spokes.

This was a 1970's wheelset so I'm not sure if the spokes were stainless.

Reading this for the 5th time, I don't think there's a preferred method for this operation. Either replacing the nipples or loosening then to work lubricant in will require you to true, (maybe) dish, and tension the wheel, so following your favorite wheel building technique should be fine.

Having done this a few times for simply aesthetic reasons, I have always detensioned all the way around the wheel, replace the spoke nipples and then retension the wheel. Going spoke by spoke while the wheel is under tension is a lot of hard work.

Although I have used Triflow at my local co-ops for lubricating nipples, 3-in-One oil is my choice at home. Doesn’t smell like bananas.

IF the nipples are "frozen", take a vise grip pliers (sharp teeth help much) and you can clamp it on the right amount and simply "peel off" the old nipple.

Wire brushing corroded threads may be useful.

The intended meaning of "peel off" is unclear, to me at least. Do you simply mean that Vice Grips can be used to unscrew a nipple that resists being turned with a spoke key? If not, what?

My inclination is to replace the nipples one at a time, working around the wheel, but wait until they're all done to re-true and re-tension. With this approach, I don't see the benefit to de-tensioning all the spokes first.

But having seen Unca Sam's approach, that may be even better. If it ain't broke ...

It cuts it open kind of like a can opener, and peels it off like an orange.

Sharp teeth = cut.
Vice grip is a law enforcement issue.

I had to deconstruct a 20" wheel with a worn-out rim. I wanted to re-use the spokes. The nipples were so tight from corrosion that I rounded off a few even after using penetrating oil. I used a "mini" slip-joint pliers to unscrew all the nipples. Luckily there were only 20 spokes!

These were handy to grab the rounded-off spoke nipples.

Providing I can get the existing nipples lubed and loose, I’m inclined to use this approach. Seems like if I work spoke to spoke that can keep the wheel true as I go, and don’t have to bother with re-dishing.

Thanks for all the comments.

Dan

I’d pull all the nipples, then clean and rebuild the wheel, but first, magnet test all the spokes and nipples, and replace all the ferro magnetic ones with some good stainless ones. Make sure you replace with correct diameter and thread.

beyond that I’d mostly use what Cycocommute said, and use Musson’s book as a guide to the details.