So I've just about had it dealing with squared taper bb and cranks, to where I'll probably switch back to using cottered instead lol. It's probably my fault over-torqueing them, cause they fit further down the spindle each time, maybe my monkey brain needs steel cranks to sleep sound at night.

As I'm looking for a used crankset to finish my build. Seems about every square taper has been mangled in some way already and there is few options.

I am converting from a 3x front, I wanted to make it a 1x or 2x, but the chainline is way too far out. So I need a shorter bb and or cranks.

I came across this octalink crankset with bb. Asking price 80eur, is that a good price? it's about as close to what I need for my current build.. Is octalink more foolproof than square taper, could this be mangled in some similar way as square taper do? Or should I look for hollow cranks instead?

Be aware that this is probably an Octalink "Version 1", which was not in use for very long. It was replaced by "Version 2", and the two are not interchangeable. See THIS.
I have Octalink V1 on my Airborne, and since I like the bike and plan to keep it, I have been acquiring spare parts. It was nearly impossible to find a new bottom bracket, but I was able to locate a "New Old Stock" one. I may never live long enough to need to replace the BB, but I'm set.
Anyway, just so you know.

EDIT: Also, Octalink is a very nice interface (even V1). I've had my cranks off several times and replacing them is easy and predictable. Square taper isn't bad though.
EDIT 2: Mine's a triple too. I'm keeping it... I don't use the small ring much, but I'm not getting any younger!

you'll want to learn the differences between Octalink and Octalink 2 first....they do not play well together...... and both come in a few different lengths too.. as do the "cottered crank" BBs you mention.
Octalink (let's call it octalink1) has ridiculously short splines that are prone to failures...... as are FSA CF cranksets (the pedal inserts are known to get loose in the arms...)

people have been known to "Superglue" the pedal inserts to temporarily cover the symptoms of the loose inserts.
i have an FSA SLK crank here with that very thing done to it... it was on a frame, as part of a 5 bikes/frames buy several years ago, so, luckily, i didn't get burned badly on it.....

and you might find that the big chainring is worn on that FSA........

The wider ridges of an Octalink V2 spindle
plow into the grooves in an Octalink V1 crank.
Thanks to David Richardson for the photo.

I haven't had any problems with mine, but I do appreciate the change from V1 to V2. I think as long as I keep the cranks tight they'll be fine.
EDIT: Heh... we were almost synchronized!

I don't really have any issues with either square taper or Octalink, but for you, I would suggest going to Hollowtech II cranks with external bottom bracket bearings. That is as tough and durable and foolproof a configuration as you can get.

+1 on Ice's recco.
Hollowtech 2 is a big upgrade and unchanged since 2004. Solid, easy to maintain and lightweight.

That is good to know.

I agree. There are FSA cranks that use the same 24mm spindle/BB at HTII that tend to be a bit cheaper if there are fiscal limitations.

Whichever way you go, square taper, hollowtech, Octalink, or something else, the answer is to get a torque wrench so you don't overtighten the crank bolts.

Absolutely. But I've just about run out of cranks to do it properly on for now. I'm having to resort to shimming the cranks on my other bike. I've seen a couple here report they shimmed their cranks with good results.

But say if it's a steel crank, this won't be nearly as much of a concern right?

My crank puller has seen better days too.

Now what about something like this alvio. Is this V2? I'm only seeing 113mm BB for V2 and this alvio could also be a bit far out for me too. For square I'd imagine I need 110mm if not 107

That looks very much like V1 to me. You'd probably have to measure things, but if you look at the photographs of V1 and V2, the tabs (or slots for the tabs) look longer than the slots on your candidate. And, as I said, if the crankset doesn't come with a BB, good luck finding one.

Also maybe worth pointing out it's an 8speed bike. So if I use a crankset for say 2x11 will that still work?

No, the Alivio would be V2 if Octalink. The only MTB crank that used V1 was XTR back in the 9 speed era. All other Shimano OL MTB cranksets were V2.

As for getting an Octalink BB, Shimano still has both versions of Octalink in their line-up.

You should post more info of what you are looking for. Chainring size combo, chainline desired, and Q-factor (thread width) if important.

What type of frame is this going on? Swapping between Road & MTB cranks could cause clearance issues in the area of the chainstay.

About using 8 speed chain on a 11 speed crankset. It may work, but the shift aids (pickup pins) may not work quite as well.

Yes it recommends the v2 bb for this alivio crank. But the recommended bb is 126mm, I have no idea if I could go for the 113mm and what the chain offset would be.

Octalink V2 comes in 113, 118, and 126... as one quick serch of Ebay shows.. and i may recall a122mm or so choice too.

just get an HT2 crank and BB, and step into the present.

Note that Octalink uses a bit different end on the crank puller if it's an older tool.

IMHO, square taper is about as sImple and foolproof as you can get. Won’t even bother to count how many I’ve owned, worked on or moved on to another owner, but easily in the dozen of dozens. In other words, if you can’t make it work with square taper, the last thing you need is a more complex and difficult to find interface.

Would suggest you either find a local experienced mech who can show you how to install square taper stuff (why do you need to remove the crank so much that it expands, anyway? Why has your puller ‘seen better days’?. Yet more questions…) or go directly to currently available hollowtech. Any 9-10-11 speed hollowtech will work just fine with 8 speed.

Install it, enjoy it, and leave it the heck alone.

I, also, never had issues with square taper bb's and cranks. If I was the op and wanting to change, it sure would not be going to octalink, but to hollow tech II. I have Tiagra, 105, and Ultegra level HT2 bb/crank sets in use. I can discern no difference in the bb's, and have never had to replace one. That includes one press fit that has been solid with no creaking.
I was not a fan of octalink, those bb's have become expensive.

as stated earlier, too.. if you are working on an MTB bike, the Road Crank Arms will likely Hit the Frame.. ad if you're working on a Road frame, the Alivio crank is not going to fit well at all.

get an HT2 that is made to work on your Style of bike.

It's a ciity/road hybrid by merida from 2008. this is a 52/42/30 crankset with 117mm bb. I'd like to try 110mm next. that's an 8mm bolt with wiggle room behind the second chainring.

Yes, don't know for certain about the symmetry of the OL V2 BBs' various lengths. Some have said they are symmetrical but can't confirm since Shimano had many lengths of V2s
So, don't know if using 113mm BB instead of 126mm will move the chainline by 6.5mm.

What chainline you desiring?