Hi Everybody,

I will appreciate your insights on the following problem

I have a 3-4 months old Canyon Exceed CF 9.

Recently, the rear brake developed a scraping noise and drag while pedaling. Upon inspection, we discovered that the brake pads are not fully contacting the rotor's braking track. The top edge of the brake pads is hanging off the outer circumference of the disc, which caused an uneven 'step' or lip to form on the pads, leading to constant noise and drag. (Rear break pads are nearly finished)

Pads, Caliper, need to be slightly repositioned so that upon replacement of pads, the problem will not reoccur.

Can you please recommend how to resolve the problem?

Thanks!!

Did you check the actual diameter of the rotor against specification? I don't see how you could adjust the caliper down/rearward - would the pads sit low enough in the caliper if the locating tabs were longer? Obviously as a hack you could trim the friction material from the top of the backing plate, but that's not a satisfactory longer term solution. Could you fit a larger rotor, with an adapter plate to position the caliper correctly?

This does happen now and then. I've dealt with it a few times seasonally at the shop.
If the caliper is sitting a bit too high and there are no spacers between the frame and caliper there is little you can do to remedy the problem as the hub/rotor assembly is fixed. Perhaps you could remove a bit of the material from the frame...very carefully...and the bottom of the caliper but you better do it correctly or it will be all f'ed up.
You can and should service the brake pads more frequently as well, this way you can use sand paper to level the pad before it becomes a problem...this also will remove gunk and glazing from the pads giving you better braking.
Sounds like you are very heavy handed when braking and perhaps are using one brake more than the other resulting in faster pad wear...if your pads aren't metallic you may be better off with metallic pads as they last longer but if they get gunked up and glazed they become very noisy.
Brake pads are a regular maintenance/service item and most overlook this...have a spare pair ready to go and life will be a bit easier...

I would first contact Canyon since it should not be sold with a brake issue like that. Could be some mistake was made during assembly such as too-thick spacers (if there are any) or who knows but they may be aware of the issue. grumpus' idea to trim the pads is a good one and I would even say a good long-term solution if you get no satisfaction from Canyon. Maybe aftermarket pads will fit better or a different rotor, but you should not have to shell out extra $$ to fix this IMO.

Thank you. Not an accurate measurement. Just the way shown in the photo below

Thank you. Gemini also suggest the removal of a tiny layer from the frame, but I really don't want to go there. I sent a message to Canyon, will see what they will offer.
in these 3-4 month almost all my rides where on steep tarmac roads, and yes, I do use the rear brake more than the front one, so no surprise that the rear one wears faster. Yes I will install a new pair and will get a couple of spare ones

Thank you. Yes I sent a message to Canyon and I am awaiting their reply. Meanwhile I will get new pads. I guess I will stick to the original SRAM pads.
That's the pad:

There is an expensive tool for refacing the caliper mounts on carbon frames. You should only have a shop do that if Canyon approves it and pays for it.

This strikes me as a warranty situation as the frame is out of spec.

2mm or so is not "a tiny amount". Canyon is the problem source here.
on the flip side... the noise got you to check your worn out pads...

Thanks Kontact.

Off the topic of brake pad wear... you might want to re-evaluate your braking habits. As you probably know, the front brake does quite a bit more braking than the rear, and if you are habitually not using it you might find your stopping capability compromised in an emergency.

Thanks maddog34 . Let's give them a chance to reply.. see what they say. If it's their engineering problem (it's a shame) and they have probably already heard from quite some exceed owners

they may say that the overhanging pad is better than the pads wearing into the spiders of the disc... or the "problem" is because of the SRAM calipers....

if anything, i'd remove some material from the caliper, not the epoxy/CF (with steel thread inserts) frame mounts.

i see both overhanging and too low calipers on bikes... the low ones are easily remedied... the high ones, not so much.
the "too low" ones make a low "buzzing" sound at speed, all the time, not just when the pads get worn out.

FYI, carbon frames do not have steel inserts for the rear caliper mounts, and they are not threaded.

But carbon is really hard on cutting tools. Park now makes a cutter especially for carbon, but I used Dremel sanding discs under the steel cutters.

This is unusual imho. The front brake is way more effective than the rear. I probably do 60-70% of my braking with the front one.

I've heard it said that the rear brake does little more than keep the bike in a straight line under hard braking.

There's absolutely nothing unusual here. 98% of braking under regular riding conditions is gentle speed-control braking, which is properly performed with rear brake (and falls well within its effectiveness).

86.4% of statistics are made up on the spot.
("regual" riding conditions?)

Precisely. It is who made it up that makes all the difference.

But statistics is boring. What's really hilarious is when people invent theories like "don't do swimming, it will make you forget how to ride a bike". Or "don't use rear brake, it will make you lose your front braking skills in an emergency". These still have some trace of logic in them, however weird and alien that logic might be. But "you should use your front since it is more efficient"... wat?

Anti-lock brakes on a bicycle anyone?

I guess it depends what you’re doing when you’re riding. I’m usually trying to get from A to B in the shortest time my legs will allow. Perhaps the OP is a different style of rider. I can’t imagine many situations where it’s better to slow down less well though.

effective is a different word from efficient

Um... My cat's name is Mittens?

Non sequitur.