Preventative Maintenance 101
#1
Thread Starter
Street Demon
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From: nyc
Bikes: cannondale bad boy rigid - it rocks!
Preventative Maintenance 101
After decades of riding the streets of the city deraileur free, I'm back on the saddle of a 24 speed fury.
What is the best way to keep my rear cassette, front & rear derailleuers, and chain clean and working?
What is the best way to keep my rear cassette, front & rear derailleuers, and chain clean and working?
#3
Recovering Retro-grouch

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From: Some call it God's country. I call it Acton, Maine
Bikes: Too Many - 7 or 8
Pay attention to them and clean them as needed. A clean drivetrain will last sizably longer than one just run with more lube added to the old lube mixed with road or trail grit.
#4
Thread Starter
Street Demon
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From: nyc
Bikes: cannondale bad boy rigid - it rocks!
Yeah, i definitely don't want over lubed gears that collect a lot of grit and gunk, but HOW do I clean it? Do I just sacrafice one of my hole ridden t-shirts and a few Q-tips and wipe away, or is there a little more ingenuity I can apply, or something I can buy to make the job easier?
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Oklahoma City
Bikes: Canondale LL Bean, Criterium; both MY Schwinn Volare's, Voyageur 11.8; Holdsworth; Bob Jackson; Raleigh Super Course Mk II and Super Course Racing USA; Trek 1500
High pressure steam or water would clean away road grit. Lightly lubricate afterwards. I like to use 100%paraffin lamp oil to clean my chains. It does not break down the lubrication, but it does loosen grit and grime. The high pressure wand washes it away.
#6
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
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From: DC / Maryland suburbs
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Originally Posted by whoosh
Yeah, i definitely don't want over lubed gears that collect a lot of grit and gunk, but HOW do I clean it? Do I just sacrafice one of my hole ridden t-shirts and a few Q-tips and wipe away, or is there a little more ingenuity I can apply, or something I can buy to make the job easier?
I recently got one of the Nashbar chain cleaner tools, and I'm actually quite impressed with how well it cleans. Only cost me $5 too. Basically it's like a little tiny car wash with brushes that rotate and scrub the chain. You just fill it with half a cup of degreaser, clip it onto the chain, and turn the pedals for half a minute or so. Less mess, less hassle, and it cleans very thoroughly.

(that's a fancier model, but the $5 Nashbar one is similar and works very well)
#8
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
https://www.rocklube.com/
Going to give this a whirl. At $10 for a small bottle it's pretty expensive but my mechanic swears by it.
Going to give this a whirl. At $10 for a small bottle it's pretty expensive but my mechanic swears by it.
#9
Thread Starter
Street Demon
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From: nyc
Bikes: cannondale bad boy rigid - it rocks!
I'm more concerned with cleaning the cassette and rear derailleur area. I can just wipe the chain down with a rag and oil it, right? Won't high pressure steam/water create rust? There's no way to dry in btw. those gear and derailleur crevices.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
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Originally Posted by whoosh
I'm more concerned with cleaning the cassette and rear derailleur area. I can just wipe the chain down with a rag and oil it, right? Won't high pressure steam/water create rust? There's no way to dry in btw. those gear and derailleur crevices.
About every 10-20 times I ride the bike, very sparingly oil the chain. Maybe 1/2 teaspoon of oil (any oil works).
I never take the chain off to clean it, just measure the chain for stretch (wear) often and replace well before the wear limit.
Less is more.
__________________
Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
#11
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: DC / Maryland suburbs
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Originally Posted by whoosh
I'm more concerned with cleaning the cassette and rear derailleur area. I can just wipe the chain down with a rag and oil it, right? Won't high pressure steam/water create rust? There's no way to dry in btw. those gear and derailleur crevices.
The rear derailer will last many chains and cassettes (barring some accident) and doesn't usually need much more than a cleaning and a touch of lube on the pivots. All but the crummiest rear derailers are mostly aluminum and not prone to serious rust.
#12
Junior Member
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From: Upper State New York
Since we are all taking about clean and degrease the chain. I'm wondering whether it's good to use those engine degreasers sold at auto parts stores. They are usually much cheaper than the degreasers at LBS. Maybe brake parts cleaner is also a choice, which is cheap, non-sticky and won't stay. So it could be better than WD40 for clean purpose. Does anybody use them to clean your bike?
#13
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: DC / Maryland suburbs
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Originally Posted by ricewin
Since we are all taking about clean and degrease the chain. I'm wondering whether it's good to use those engine degreasers sold at auto parts stores. They are usually much cheaper than the degreasers at LBS. Maybe brake parts cleaner is also a choice, which is cheap, non-sticky and won't stay. So it could be better than WD40 for clean purpose. Does anybody use them to clean your bike?
#14
Just Ride

Joined: Jul 2006
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Originally Posted by ricewin
Since we are all taking about clean and degrease the chain. I'm wondering whether it's good to use those engine degreasers sold at auto parts stores. They are usually much cheaper than the degreasers at LBS. Maybe brake parts cleaner is also a choice, which is cheap, non-sticky and won't stay. So it could be better than WD40 for clean purpose. Does anybody use them to clean your bike?
Then I use ProLink chain lube. Prolink has a cleaner in it as well and it seems to keep everything clean. It does such a good job that I don't think I will have to use the brake cleaner again for a very long time. You can use brake cleaner on the chain as well. I have done this in the past and it also works very well. But I do it in a way as to not let all the crud and degreaser get all over the paint. It's not that the paint gets hurt but if there is any wax on your paint there won't be if the brake cleaner gets on it.
J B
Last edited by J B; 08-25-06 at 08:22 PM.
#15
Gear Head
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Tampa, Fl., Dallas, Tx.
Bikes: 07' Colnago CLX, 04' Allez,03' KHS, 79' super leTour304
Use a dry lube.
Wipe the chain off and lightly relube after avery ride.
Brush off the cassette and derailleuers every 3 - 4 rides.
Wipe the chain off and lightly relube after avery ride.
Brush off the cassette and derailleuers every 3 - 4 rides.
#18
.
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: mobile home
Originally Posted by operator
https://www.rocklube.com/
Going to give this a whirl. At $10 for a small bottle it's pretty expensive but my mechanic swears by it.
Going to give this a whirl. At $10 for a small bottle it's pretty expensive but my mechanic swears by it.
#19
Oldie starting over
Joined: Jul 2006
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WD-40 = Water Displacement
If you read the text on the can you not find the word lubricant anywhere. I use it to clean and degrease, cut the adhesive left after pealing off labels and removing shoe heal marks on tile floors.
If I want to lubricate something I reach for my bottle of Tri-Flow.
https://www.triflowlubricants.com/
If you read the text on the can you not find the word lubricant anywhere. I use it to clean and degrease, cut the adhesive left after pealing off labels and removing shoe heal marks on tile floors.
If I want to lubricate something I reach for my bottle of Tri-Flow.
https://www.triflowlubricants.com/
#20
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Upper State New York
Originally Posted by whoosh
I usually use WD40 pretty much for everything nowadays. Would that be a problem for a bike chain?
#22
Old biker
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Radium Springs, NM
Bikes: Custom Cammack touring road and 1987 Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
What about jockey pulleys?
What about bushing type derailer jockey pulleys? I am running mine dry on my Shimano equipped bikes since it seems they came that way. The Park Tool web site says to lightly lube them with some stuff they sell that looks just like White Lightening chain lube. Will that work?
#23
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: DC / Maryland suburbs
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Originally Posted by CharlesC
What about bushing type derailer jockey pulleys? I am running mine dry on my Shimano equipped bikes since it seems they came that way. The Park Tool web site says to lightly lube them with some stuff they sell that looks just like White Lightening chain lube. Will that work?
I use grease to lube derailer pulleys. I remove the bushing and plastic pulley, clean them thoroughly, then STUFF the bushings full of grease and reinstall the whole thing. I then wipe off the excess, This keeps the pulleys spinning smoothly and above all quietly. Because they're packed full of grease, it seems to take longer for them to get dirty again as well.
#24
Thread Starter
Street Demon
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From: nyc
Bikes: cannondale bad boy rigid - it rocks!
I just had the oil changed on my car and as the guy was throwing away the container of Mobil One, I thought wow, this is supposed to be such great stuff for car engines, why not a bike chain.
Anyone got a good reason why not before I put it to the test?
Anyone got a good reason why not before I put it to the test?
#25
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
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From: N Dallas, TX
I wipe the chain clean and relube whenever I notice it's real dirty, hear any noise, after a wet ride or every week or so with an old t-shirt or sock. About every 2 months/1000 miles I will pull the chain (SRAM power links are great) drop in an old 2 liter soda bottle, shake it up and let is soak for awhile. Fish out with an old spoke, dry and relube. I know one guy who keeps two chains in rotation; one soaking one on the bike to reduce the cleaning time and swaps out like every 2 weeks (again power links kick a$$) Buy one of those little go/no go $10 chain checkers and check when cleaning and your cassette will last a long time; mine has 12,000 on it.
I've used Brake cleaner on the cassette, and it does quickly get rid of grease, but I worry about the impact on the wheel bearings. I just rebuilt mine cause they were grinding. Try getting some cotton 1/4" rope at the hardware, cut off a few feet and floss the cassette
Jockey pulleys I disassemble, clean and pack with auto wheel bearing grease.
A full sized fender works wonders at keeping your drive train clean in wet/gunk conditions too
I've used Brake cleaner on the cassette, and it does quickly get rid of grease, but I worry about the impact on the wheel bearings. I just rebuilt mine cause they were grinding. Try getting some cotton 1/4" rope at the hardware, cut off a few feet and floss the cassette

Jockey pulleys I disassemble, clean and pack with auto wheel bearing grease.
A full sized fender works wonders at keeping your drive train clean in wet/gunk conditions too




