Oh please. Not only are you naive, you are naive in the worst way possible. Actually it's good that you buy more expensive chains just because they are more expensive, more money into our shop.

Let me take that back. You are correct in every way.

I have went thru 2 PC48 chains this year. Each time I crushed a link on a rock or something of that nature. It sucks riding back to the car 12 miles when you have crushed links.

Buy cheap garbage if you like, I'll buy decent stuff, hasn't failed me yet, but cheap stuff has, so if I'm naive, why does cheap stuff break for me, and good stuff doesn't?

Experience has taught me that you usually get what you pay for. can I break a cheap chain with the power my legs produce, maybe not. Will it break because it is poorly made, or made of the wrong type material? Possibly so.

There is a difference between cheap and inexpensive. Experience has shown me that the Bell chains are inexpensive, not cheap, at all. YMMV

So would anyone care to take time out from clubbing each other and possibly answer my question (see post #20)? I'd like to service a chain, and it would be good to know if this is OK before I do it. Thanks!

Oh never mind that.

Watching an online pissing match unfold is MUCH more entertaining.

Master links work fine with derailleurs. There may be a little break in time for the link to settle into its final position, and you may need to give it a little stiff link treatment thereafter, but it's made for derailleurs.

Thanks... Is there a preferred orientation? Being that rear cogs and front chain rings 'climb' in opposite directions, either side will clash with something. I was thinking put the clip with the protruding points on the right side for less interaction with the front derailleur?

Do these points show visible wear with time? Or do the gears/derailleur take the beating? Or maybe it is all a non-issue?

I would like to ask a chain question. If a 1/2" x 3/32" chain is for a geared bike, what is a 1/2" x 1/8" chain for? Thanks.

The 1/2" x 3/32" chain is for multi-geared bikes. The 1/2" x 1/8" chain is for single speeds.

They break because you don't know how to install a chain properly and/or abuse your chains.

https://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=3805

SRAM provides an answer on the relative mertis of the PC48, PC58 and PC68. In that order, cheaper to expensive.

So in a nutshell you are just repeating your flawed assumption that there is always a direct correlation between MSRP and quality.

Direct quote from SRAMs reply:

And fixed.

Well I bought the bell/walmart chain and although it was a couple links shorter than I would have liked it works great.

It was $7.80 with no shipping charges!!

I used a Bell chain on my 3/32" fixed gear for a little while. Thinking that the gold quick link would be the weak link, I took it off. Well, when I took the bike out for a little test, the chain snapped during a skid. Afterwards I discovered that the outer plate of the chain is NOT meant to be rejoined--the mushroomed end of the link severely weakens the outer link when it is being pushed in and out. Moral of the story: Do not try to rejoin the chain with a regular link (or add new links once it's been shortened) and only use the connector link for rejoining the chain.

The short answer is: yes, it's okay. Make sure the "speeds" match, for example, an 8-speed master link with an 8-speed chain. If matched correctly, it should not protrude anymore. I put a generic 8-speed KMC master link on an 8-speed Shimano chain and it worked fine. Things get more precise w/ 9- and 10-speed systems; my thought is that it's still okay, but I've never tried.

1/8" chain is used for most bikes with a fixed chain line (i.e. non-derailleur) including single/fixed/internally geared hubs. I believe it was also used for antique 2/3/4 speed derailleurs. With the advent of five or more sprockets on the rear a narrower 3/32" chain was required since the sprockets were closer together.

The advantage of 1/8" chain is longer sprocket life. The wider teeth of the sprockets distribute the load over a greater area so there is less stress. Some super heavy duty bikes use a 3/16" chain.

I just bought the 6 to 8 gear chain today, 9/5/17 for under $12. I ride a 21 speed Bianchi mountain bike. it was a quick cheap fix. couldn't afford better right now. it fit perfectly, so far so good. and I put miles on my bike. hard miles. I ride daily, many places. sometimes I go crazy and ride like a mad man! so I'll let you all know in 6 months how things are, or sooner if it goes bad.

KMC Z51 6/7/8-Speed Bicycle Chain 1/2" x 3/32" 7.1mm for 18/21/24-Speed MTB/Road | eBay

part of being a cheapskate is learning how to shop...

and if you have a way... check that Bell chain now... if it's like the three i was given this spring by my scrap man, (two were still sealed in their blister packs!) it was nearly worn out before you installed it.... it will trash your sprockets.

The type of master link you are describing isn't what I normally see on chains meant for use with derailleur bikes. It sounds like you are talking about a BMX-style master link as opposed to a removable link that's symmetrical and lacks protrusions. I would not myself use a clip-style link on a derailleur bike.

Welcome to the forums..... try not to dredge up 10 year old threads next time. Just start a new thread and link to the old one if you think it's pertinent.

Otherwise known as a Zombie Thread!

Good advice to start a new thread.

Even knowing this is a zombie thread, I figure it is worth adding the last Wal-Mart chain I bought was simply a rebranded KMC. Had KMC stamped right on the side.

Yes, they are made by KMC. I have bought a few Wal-Mart/K-Mart/Bell chains, but I prefer SRAM because I like their master link. I buy 3 or 4 when I can catch then on sale for $8 or $9.