Tuning tips?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 83
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Tuning tips?
I'm trying to tune my mtb's 9 speed rear derailleur, but I'm having some problems.
The chain will get to all of the gears, but it is not tightening or loosening quick enough. When I shift up, for example, from 1, it will not change on the first click. then it will shift up lagging one behind, until it gets to the 3rd gear from the top, at which point it will jump the 2nd last gear and go straight to the last.
As well, sometimes it will shift properly, right up until the last gear, where i will have to mash on the pedals before it changes.
I cleaned and re-lubed the gears, but this yielded no change, nor has changing the front ring.
Can anyone give me any tuning tips? I'm using a Shimano XT from last year, so there should be no problem in regards to the quality of the derailleur.
The chain will get to all of the gears, but it is not tightening or loosening quick enough. When I shift up, for example, from 1, it will not change on the first click. then it will shift up lagging one behind, until it gets to the 3rd gear from the top, at which point it will jump the 2nd last gear and go straight to the last.
As well, sometimes it will shift properly, right up until the last gear, where i will have to mash on the pedals before it changes.
I cleaned and re-lubed the gears, but this yielded no change, nor has changing the front ring.
Can anyone give me any tuning tips? I'm using a Shimano XT from last year, so there should be no problem in regards to the quality of the derailleur.
#2
B-b-b-b-b-b-bicicle Rider
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 749
Likes: 5
From: Racine WI
Bikes: 1997, stumpjumper S-works hardtail, Medici, Giant Perigee(track dropouts and fixed gear), Columbia twosome, schwinn twinn, '67 raleigh 5 speed internal hub, Old triumph 3 speed, old BSA 3-speed, schwinn Racer 2spd kickback, Broken raysport criteriu
It sounds like a stretched shifter cable, which is a normal part of use. try simply twisting your barrel adjuster. Some bikes have them by the shift levers, some have barrel adjusters down by the derailleur, and some have both. You will want to effectively shorten the cable, but to do so you must effectively lengthen your cable housing. If your barrel adjuster gets maxed out, then you'll have to put the RD in the smallest cog, set then High gear limit screw so it holds the RD over that cog, then loosen the bolt that holds your cable onto the deraileur, and then pull it tight, and then tighten the bolt, and then back the limit screw off a half turn.
Hope that helps.
good luck
Hope that helps.
good luck
#3
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
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Yea, thats what I've been doing, it just seems to be some precision work to get it to the right tension. I've been using the barrel adjuster down by the derailleur, but that things bullocks. I'll definitely look into a barrel adjuster by my shifters, though, i totally forgot such a thing could exist. I'll check it.
Also, forgot that you can change the derailleur alignment. But where would i find that screw? I don't want to tweak around with the wrong screws
Also, forgot that you can change the derailleur alignment. But where would i find that screw? I don't want to tweak around with the wrong screws
#4
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 30
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
You need to redo the adjustment starting from step #1:
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64
Other factors may come into play as well - worn chain/cogs/chainrings etc.
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64
Other factors may come into play as well - worn chain/cogs/chainrings etc.
#7
B-b-b-b-b-b-bicicle Rider
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 749
Likes: 5
From: Racine WI
Bikes: 1997, stumpjumper S-works hardtail, Medici, Giant Perigee(track dropouts and fixed gear), Columbia twosome, schwinn twinn, '67 raleigh 5 speed internal hub, Old triumph 3 speed, old BSA 3-speed, schwinn Racer 2spd kickback, Broken raysport criteriu
[QUOTE
Also, forgot that you can change the derailleur alignment. But where would i find that screw? I don't want to tweak around with the wrong screws[/QUOTE]
Here's a quick and dirty picture. you may have a hex nut rather than an allen head nut for the cable clamping screw, but it does the same thing. and you can't really see the set screws but they should be located about where the line points in the picture.
Also, check to make sure your deraileur is in allighment, ie, that your hanger is still straight. Do your pulleys track fairly true to the direction of the chain (they should)? And are the pulleys angled inward or outward (they shouldn't be)?
Also, forgot that you can change the derailleur alignment. But where would i find that screw? I don't want to tweak around with the wrong screws[/QUOTE]
Here's a quick and dirty picture. you may have a hex nut rather than an allen head nut for the cable clamping screw, but it does the same thing. and you can't really see the set screws but they should be located about where the line points in the picture.
Also, check to make sure your deraileur is in allighment, ie, that your hanger is still straight. Do your pulleys track fairly true to the direction of the chain (they should)? And are the pulleys angled inward or outward (they shouldn't be)?
#8
Peace and bicycle grease!
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 285
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From: The Island, CA
Bikes: '85 Schwinn Voyageur, Ross Mt Hood, Rossin, the Nugget
i've found out that a kink in the derailleur cable can cause some shifting woes as well. make sure the cable is straight, that your cable housing ends are cleanly cut and capped.
#12
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2007
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Okay, so this is how it is now. I've tweaked around with the limit screws, and the tension screw, and now i have this problem. When i am on the lowest gear (biggest sprocket), and i shift to the second gear, it will not shift. i have to shift twice before it will get on the next sprocket. from there, the gear will generally shift smoothly , until around the last gears, where the ring will jump over a gear to get to where the chain should be. the derailleur seems to be in good shape. Should I keep tweaking the limit screws, or is there something else that will fix this?
And no, it doesn't look like the cable housing is gummed up, but i'll check that once we have the water outside running again (its still half-winter up here)
And no, it doesn't look like the cable housing is gummed up, but i'll check that once we have the water outside running again (its still half-winter up here)
#14
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2007
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I have been, but I'm new to working with these limit screws. The chain gets in the first and last sprocket no problem, it just has a problem getting to the sprocket right after it. That means i probably have to shorten my limits, right?
#15
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 649
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
You need to redo the adjustment starting from step #1:
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64
If you're not getting good results using just that half here's the rest:
1. Shifter and number of cogs on the cassette have to match. (Easy to check.)
2. Fresh, clean shift cables and housings. (If in doubt, throw them out.)
3. Derailleur hanger alignment. (On a 9-speed cassette this takes a special tool. Don't skip over it because it's a very common problem.)
ps: Limit screws are almost never the issue.
#16
Jersey Boy Yeah
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 161
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From: Boise
Bikes: Trek 1000, Debernardi Track, Cervelo P2C, Specialized Tarmac Expert, Specialized Allez Comp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SkzvfCaIbyQ
honestly a great video about adjusting rear derailleurs. hope it helps!
honestly a great video about adjusting rear derailleurs. hope it helps!
#17
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 162
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From: Scotland
Bikes: Dawes road bike and Trek Antelope 850
Okay, so this is how it is now. I've tweaked around with the limit screws, and the tension screw, and now i have this problem. When i am on the lowest gear (biggest sprocket), and i shift to the second gear, it will not shift. i have to shift twice before it will get on the next sprocket. from there, the gear will generally shift smoothly , until around the last gears, where the ring will jump over a gear to get to where the chain should be.
In my case it was resolved by renewing the outer cable (housing). The old cable setup must have just had too much friction for the return spring on the mech to pull the cable through. New cable and housing made the controls lighter as well.
Tony S




