what do i need to fix this wheel
#1
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what do i need to fix this wheel
hi people i bought this wheel but it had a fixed cassette on it so i have removed that but i dont no what to buy or even if i can put a cassette on it that spins any help please




#2
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Bikes: Pinarello steel frame 1980's. graham weigh custom
looks to me like you need a new cassette freehub body. the second picture looks like the inner hub body, you can see the small ratchet on the outside of the axle. somthing like this i think. https://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA280_.jpg hope that helps a little.
#3
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From: Salinas , Ca.
Bikes: Bike Nashbar AL-1 ,Raligh M50 , Schwinn Traveler , and others
there should be a 10 mm bolt inside what left of the cassette freehub body on your wheel. use a 10mm Allen key to remove it . tum it counter clockwise to do so. once you do so you can replace with a new one . like theb 1 kequy shows.
#6
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go to clear up im not that great on bike wheels but i have never seen 1 like this. when i got the wheel the cassette would not spin round this is called i fixed wheel i think but i want a cassette that will spin round on it. so i removed the old 1 and this is what im left with. here are some pics of what i removed




#7
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From: Maidstone, Kent, England
Bikes: 1970 Holdsworth Mistral, Vitus 979, Colnago Primavera, Corratec Hydracarbon, Massi MegaTeam, 1935 Claud Butler Super Velo, Carrera Virtuoso, Viner, 1953 Claud Butler Silver Jubilee, 1954 Holdsworth Typhoon, 1966 Claud Butler Olympic Road, 1982 Claud
The splined piece in the middle of your second picture looks as though it's the freehub body (see Theb1keguy's link). If possible, you should salvage this and see if it will fit back on - but 2 problems: If the cassette didn't freewheel before you removed it, it's probably shot, The cassette looks really smashed - you didn't use that club hammer in your top photo to remove it did you?
#14
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From: Toronto
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I'm beginning to get my head around this. theb1keguy etc. saw it right away.
The freehub that came with the wheel is designed to spin, but had probably rusted and got stuck. It's possible you might have got it spinning again with patience, WD-40 and advice but it's damaged now, so you'll need a new one.
The freehub is part of the hub, and normally the cassette of cogs comes off by removing a lock ring, then sliding the cogs off (or on some older hubs the smallest cog has to be uncrewed using chain whips and then the others slide off) leaving the outer, splined shell on the free hub as pictured. However somehow you broke the freehub, and you took the outer shell with the cassette, leaving the exposed inner parts on the hub. They can now be removed by undoing the interior allen bolt as explained and then sliding them off.
Then you need a new freehub body, and a new cassette.
How many cogs in the original cassette (it looks like 6 or 7), and what kind of shifters do you have? Did the original set up have the cassette held on the freehub by a lockring (newer hyperglide hub), or by screwing on the smallest cog (older uniglide hub)? It's important because if you replace the old cassette with a larger one you may have to "redish" the wheel to compensate for the increased width. Also depending on what kind of rear derailleur you have it may not handle a different range of gears than the old cassette had. What kind of bike is the wheel going into?
The freehub that came with the wheel is designed to spin, but had probably rusted and got stuck. It's possible you might have got it spinning again with patience, WD-40 and advice but it's damaged now, so you'll need a new one.
The freehub is part of the hub, and normally the cassette of cogs comes off by removing a lock ring, then sliding the cogs off (or on some older hubs the smallest cog has to be uncrewed using chain whips and then the others slide off) leaving the outer, splined shell on the free hub as pictured. However somehow you broke the freehub, and you took the outer shell with the cassette, leaving the exposed inner parts on the hub. They can now be removed by undoing the interior allen bolt as explained and then sliding them off.
Then you need a new freehub body, and a new cassette.
How many cogs in the original cassette (it looks like 6 or 7), and what kind of shifters do you have? Did the original set up have the cassette held on the freehub by a lockring (newer hyperglide hub), or by screwing on the smallest cog (older uniglide hub)? It's important because if you replace the old cassette with a larger one you may have to "redish" the wheel to compensate for the increased width. Also depending on what kind of rear derailleur you have it may not handle a different range of gears than the old cassette had. What kind of bike is the wheel going into?
Last edited by cooker; 07-03-08 at 09:53 PM.
#15
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From: Mesa, AZ
Bikes: Moots RCS, tandem, beach-cruiser, MTB, Specialized-Allez road-bike, custom track-bike
It appears to be a 6 or7-spd HyperGlide freehub. The lockring is missing or ripped off. Here's a guide on how to remove the cogs & freehub body: Park Tool: Freehub service. Just use the Shimano section.
The pawls on the centre looks in good shape actually, not too rounded off at the tips, not too worn. Most likely all you had to do was disassemble the parts in the correct order with the proper tools and all you'd need was some new grease in the freehub body to get things running smoothly again. As it is, you'll need a new freehub body now along with a new cogset.
The pawls on the centre looks in good shape actually, not too rounded off at the tips, not too worn. Most likely all you had to do was disassemble the parts in the correct order with the proper tools and all you'd need was some new grease in the freehub body to get things running smoothly again. As it is, you'll need a new freehub body now along with a new cogset.







