Threaded Stem with threadless headset
#1
Threaded Stem with threadless headset
A coworker was wanting to raise his handlebars from the factory position. His bike has a 1 1/8 threadless headset. I suggested a stem rise or a stem with more rise to it. He also preferred more adjustment on height like on the quill stems. The thought subsequently occurred to me, one might use a quill stem with a threaded headset and get more rise than the 3-5 inches available from a stem riser and get some more adjustment. That would leave only the single collar holding the fork to the frame-I presume the stem is a backup against the collar failure so wasn't sure if one could safely operate a threadless headset with a quill stem. Anyone one know if that is feasible.
Last edited by meb; 08-21-08 at 04:02 AM.
#2
Over the hill

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 24,588
Likes: 1,358
From: Los Angeles, CA
Bikes: Pinarello Nytro, Momentum Transend
I don't see how you could properly tighten the headset with a quill stem and no compression plug or star nut. Sorry. They do make adjustable threadless stems, however.
__________________
It's like riding a bicycle
It's like riding a bicycle
#3
I think he was wanting the up-down adjustment with a turn of the wrench rather than the arcuate adjustment available on the comfort bike stems.
#4
Over the hill

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 24,588
Likes: 1,358
From: Los Angeles, CA
Bikes: Pinarello Nytro, Momentum Transend
Well, the only way to get that with a threadless headset is to have an extra long steerer and a series of spacers, then remove the stem and spacers and adjust the headset each time he adjusts it.
__________________
It's like riding a bicycle
It's like riding a bicycle
#5
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 30
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Problem solves makes a collar that allows you to mess with the height setting for a stem withotu having to readjust the headset each time.
#6
Recreational Commuter
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 5
From: Central Ohio
Bikes: One brand-less build-up, and a Connondale Synapse Carbon Ultegra Disc. A nicer bike than I need, but it was a good deal, so... ;-)
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
From: West Dorset, UK
Bikes: 1983 Dawes Galaxy, 2006 Raleigh Airlite, 1982 Sun Solo (fixed)
Sheldon Brown may be able to help here:
https://sheldonbrown.org/thorn/index.html
The Thorn has a Reynolds 531 steel fork, 1 1/8" threadless. I installed a conventional threadless stem for the drop bars, but I omitted the usual "star fangled nut" in the steerer and the cap that usually goes on top of the stem. Instead, I installed a wedge-type quill stem into the hollow steerer. This is a stem with a 1 inch outside diameter, intended for use with a 1 1/8" threadless setup, but it was a good fit.
__________________
A group for all Dawes Galaxy owners to give and recieve information about them
https://flickr.com/groups/dawes_galaxy/
i jam my thumbs up and back into the tubes. this way i can point my fingers straight out in front to split the wind and attain an even more aero profile, and the usual fixed gear - zen - connectedness feeling through the drivetrain is multiplied ten fold because my thumbs become one with the tubing.
https://flickr.com/groups/dawes_galaxy/
#8
Light Makes Right
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,520
Likes: 0
From: Green Mountain, Colorado
Bikes: Gianni Motta Criterium, Dean Hardtail
Yeah, but Sheldon still had the threadless stem on there......
You're buddy is screwed if he wants up and down adjustment on the road. That's one drawback of the threadless system. Of course it's far superior since Most People like to adjust their headset preload on the road rather than bar height on the road. I've never met this Most People guy but apparently he has a really hard time keeping his headset adjusted.
Once upon a time I though the threadless system was an improvement - it IS easier to do the initial install - but have since realized it kinda sucks for your Average Joe after installation. You can save a couple of ounces having an aluminum or carbon steerer rather than steel and you get to do away with the locknut, but that's the only advantage against the big disadvantage of having very limited adjustability.
Another idea would be to get a new fork and leave the steerer high with spacers above and below the stem - or that collar like Sheldon had - then juggle them.
Chris
You're buddy is screwed if he wants up and down adjustment on the road. That's one drawback of the threadless system. Of course it's far superior since Most People like to adjust their headset preload on the road rather than bar height on the road. I've never met this Most People guy but apparently he has a really hard time keeping his headset adjusted.

Once upon a time I though the threadless system was an improvement - it IS easier to do the initial install - but have since realized it kinda sucks for your Average Joe after installation. You can save a couple of ounces having an aluminum or carbon steerer rather than steel and you get to do away with the locknut, but that's the only advantage against the big disadvantage of having very limited adjustability.
Another idea would be to get a new fork and leave the steerer high with spacers above and below the stem - or that collar like Sheldon had - then juggle them.
Chris
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
There are steerer extenders that raise the bars on a threadless headset. Here is a listing of one from Nashbar:
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...%20ATB%20Stems
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...%20ATB%20Stems
#10
There are steerer extenders that raise the bars on a threadless headset. Here is a listing of one from Nashbar:
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...%20ATB%20Stems
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...%20ATB%20Stems
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,559
Likes: 53
From: The 'Wack, BC, Canada
Bikes: Norco (2), Miyata, Canondale, Soma, Redline
Key to all this talk of a quill stem is that without the star nut and top cap there's no practical way to put the correct preload tension into the headset bearings. So it's just not practical to attempt such a conversion without more radical surgery. Your friend is pretty much stuck with the solutions posted so far and can forget about the quill stem option.





